*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the NS regular. North swell with a new NW filling in. Lots of current pulling out and deep. Short period so tons of waves.

Got some death drops I made and a couple I poked.

Not ideal but there were a couple fun ones.

Rock slide at Waimea Bay so the highway is closed in both direction by the bay. All that rain probably.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,168
23,126
113
PNW
Leftover storm slop. Sunny and glassy though. Rode the new to me Swordfish even though it was pretty big and not ideal board testing conditions. I felt slow and tired at first but I eventually got into a couple fun ones. Mushy but pushy overhead rights. Not easy to find a turn section but it was nice to race a few. A random left rolled through and it ended up being a really good wave. Three turns and then I looked out the back and saw a set closing out so I just stuck with it and took it to the beach. Maybe an hour session which is short for me but it felt just about right.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,595
6,149
113
SD
Got a blown out tide dropping tf out session with just my coworker at one of my usual spots. The wind swell was pretty chaotic but it looked like the groundswell was still offer some decent waves. The current was cranking so it was hard to stay in the spot and the short period energy made for some interesting bumps but I eventually lined up a good one with a steep drop, one lip hit and three cutbacks. I also got pitched hard on one in front of my coworker right before the biggest set of the day. Definitely got my workout in.
 

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,788
6,559
113
Only had about a 25-30 min window this AM, paddled out at an easy access beachbreak. Mixed up, high tide and warbly, but got 3 waves in the quick session that made it worth it. Don’t care if Nathan and Koa hate it, thanks @Pyzelsurfboards for making a user friendly shortboard that us normies can surf
8752F3B5-31D6-48FF-981E-861CBD8132D1.jpeg
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,168
23,126
113
PNW
Only had about a 25-30 min window this AM, paddled out at an easy access beachbreak. Mixed up, high tide and warbly, but got 3 waves in the quick session that made it worth it. Don’t care if Nathan and Koa hate it, thanks @Pyzelsurfboards for making a user friendly shortboard that us normies can surf
View attachment 147754
The fact that Harry and Lloyd don't care for the Pyzalien is a positive in my book:beer:
 

Pyzelsurfboards

OTF status
Jul 14, 2015
320
1,644
93
Visit site
Only had about a 25-30 min window this AM, paddled out at an easy access beachbreak. Mixed up, high tide and warbly, but got 3 waves in the quick session that made it worth it. Don’t care if Nathan and Koa hate it, thanks @Pyzelsurfboards for making a user friendly shortboard that us normies can surf
View attachment 147754
Beavis and Butthead don't like it, but I do!! Stoked you had some fun
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular. The waves had multiple personalities. Long lulls then flurries of sets.

It looked like my job was gonna rain out so I stayed out way too long. Got some fun ones and some weird ones.

Conditions improved all morning. Later there was just 5 of us out then 3.

One of the guys was a friend of Pyzel. Chatted him up, well he chatted me up interesting duu. From Oz but has a house in Bali, been coming here from the ‘70’s.

Just before I went in some wash thrus came rolling in and my new Aussie friend laughs and says John John’s heat must’ve started. Sure enough when I got to my phone and checked John’s rd of 32 heat had started and he got that high 7. Haha. Just hope he hasn’t peaked too soon.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,361
4,771
113
Had a desperation session last night. First surf in weeks during the best run of swell in a long while.
Surfed from 5:00-dark, mid beach. It looked utterly awful but there was a crew trying to make something out of nothing on the inner bar closeouts. After running down the dunes, it looked slightly more doable. shoulder high wedges, but a lot of peaks with no corners and closeouts into the shallows. My first one was the best. A little left corner that held up long enough for a little closeout halfturn reo. I figured anything else was just extra. Got about 4-5 more that were pretty uneventful. Mostly fun drops to closeout races.

You gotta take what you can get.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,770
4,655
113
SF x Encinitas
I was out there too a couple hours earlier than Bob. It looked bad, but after surveying several blocks, I spotted some wedgy rippable corners. Got some slashes, wraps, hacks and a barrel on the 6'3 Twin Pin. This board is sick in anything hollow chest high to well overhead.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,022
17,488
113
San Diego, CA
Yesterday morning, thought I might be having a heart attack while I was driving the kids to school. Turned out I just pulled my left pec… reaching over to buckle my kid into her carseat in the backseat. LOL
man, it freaked me out cause it was pain right above my heart. I had daymares of passing out behind the wheel. the fear & anxiety was real- I really thought that was gonna be my time! But I dropped the kids off at school, pulled the car over, called my dad (who's had heart issues recently) and I realized I had no other symptoms besides the muscle pain, which lasted all day.

This morning, my left pec still a little sore but not as bad as yesterday. To appease wife, I saw the doctor today: everything’s fine, EKG was normal. She said it was probably from doing dumbbell chest flys at the gym a couple days ago- TBF it has been awhile since I’ve done more than bodyweight HIIT workouts.
Anyway, thank Bethany & Jeebus that it wasn’t serious! Getting old is the worst.

Today = 1st day of the rest of my life! Carpe Diem n chit. I had a midday window so I figured I'd get wet even tho it looked windy and marginal at a couple spots. Only one dude out at reef3 with some onshore wedges on the draining tide. Thought I spied some corners so I paddled out on 6'0 Mandala eggy channeled twin.

Most waves you couldn't really make it around the first section, so I tried to be picky, and every 5th wave or so, would line up a bit more: kinda sectiony ledgy lil WH lefts that would stand up enough to for 2-4 backside hits / wraps. Almost all the hooks felt really good- IMO that's the most fun turn on these channeled twins (this and plasmic)- good whip with juuust enough hold.

Other guy was a non-factor, kinda going right into closeouts or sitting at the next peak down. Got a few of those funner lefts, then my feet started touching reef while sitting in the lineup and boils were sucking hard, and reef popping up on the inside. Waited for decent one that broke wide enough to avoid the rocks and went in.
 
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slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,629
2,459
113
Damn. Glad you’re good Oeste. VonMeister, how many deadlifts does he need to do to correct the problem??

Third strike for me today on spot selection. Maybe I'm paying back some inconspicuous karmic debt? I keep finding myself at pretty good waves with impossibly thick crowds. Or empty dog sheet conditions. Not too far off from today’s pipe finals.