*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,857
11,266
113
San Diego
better than I expected. one of those sessions you sit under everyone and end up picking off all the waves.

rode the plasmic with a semi keel and liked it. weird at first and adjusted my approach for down the line and had a blast. still had the backfoot shreds but surged much more like a fish.

my rock dance game is getting strong.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
Same. fun sesh. Beautiful sunny afternoon with no wind, skatepark conditions at low tide. Only 6 of us out, all familiar faces chatting and catching up. WH-CH peelers with a soft takeoff - fast section - slow- racetrack. I got about 12 rights in under an hour.

I’m really liking Pyzalien2. Got caught with my feet a little forward trying to push through the soft section but it still let me do a decent carve. I feel like this is a really forgiving boar. Quad feels good. Might try yu thruster or twin+trainingwheel next B6D6582A-0B93-4BB2-A385-7C025BE4EA0A.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,511
113
PNW
Fcking freezing this morning. Windshield fully iced. Suited up at home while my truck was warming up and drove to the same spot as yesterday. Firing. For Oregon it was like a 9.5/10. Which is like a Cali 6. Just me and a buddy out there. 6-3 smth felt pretty gucci. Had the tail skip out on a top turn on my 2nd wave because i wasnt pushing hard enough on my heel edge I think. Tidied that up and didnt have any further issues. Lumbering outside walls with easy roll ins that would bowl up and offer steep pockets that allowed you to push as hard as you want through a few turns. The inside section was heavy, nearly shorepound feeling freight trains across the reef. Some were makeable, others were certain destruction and once you were locked in it was hard to escape. Ribs and boils and as much speed as you could handle as you raced for the channel.

Its going to storm for a week so i surfed until my arms were noodles.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,855
7,752
113
San Francisco, CA
Left for the Beach at 12:15, meeting ran long.

Once there, no checking, suited up and ran to water.

Long wade with occasional sandbar hole but then hop hop paddle, duckdive and out.

Then long paddle at slow burn (yesterday was max burn the moment I hit the water) and one duck dive and outside and no one else.

Behind me were two others by about 5 minutes.

Didn't have to wait long once outside to have a set stack up.

A little to the south, so I paddle over to it.

One of the guys behind me follows me and as I start stroking in to what should proved to be a good sized wave (clearly a left), he shouts, 'You going?"

I think, 'You mother f*cker, go die, wait your goddamn turn!"

I say with as little amount of disdain I can muster, "That is the plan."

And I am off with him on the shoulder, half paddling for it.

'Mother f*cker' glare is on my face as I make eye contact, and then I am grabbing the rail and jetting down the line.

(rest of session he stayed away from me but was present on a few waves)

Get a super ride in the pocket.

Then I think, I can get more of these. so I paddle out, and 10-15 minutes later, realize am out too far.

Paddle in and shoulder hop a right that suddenly jacks up as more of the wave moves onto the bar I ride a bit too far in an cop rest of set on head.

But no fear even after a few longish holddowns and spins.

Smaller waves help with that I guess.

Is 7 ft at 16 seconds small?

Then am out and paddling north thinking I see Friend #1 but turns out to not be.

Catch a some more rides, good but not great. Feels nice to be able to pump the board to get around a section cleanly though.

Spot Friend #1 to the south, start waving, then catch a left, a bomber!

On way back out, catch eye of the mother f*cker, he saw that wave and I am thinking, 'Keep paddling north mother f*cker with your 'are you going crap'.

Where did this self righteous anger come from? Probably from me not surfing well lately and feeling the winter clock starting to wear down.

Its certainly fueling the adrenalin pump though.

Drift/paddle closer to Friend #1. see him get one, a good one, then I catch another super left and then another real quick and get trapped inside for a bit.

When I get back out, where is Friend #1? (later find he went in after getting his 'wave of winter'.....so far)

I am farther north in sort of a rip peak.

All rights, well, mostly all rights.

Shoulder hop a decent one, then get back out and just whip around and snag best wave of the session. Right at the peak, sort of almost late, but not. Super long drop, wall stacks up, and the bottom turn is solid, feel some wobble in my left knee, then pet the cat through to the inside.

No tube but boy, that was a great drop, for a moment was sure I was too late.

Red-green board trust for the win!

Then back for two more ho hum waves, check the watch, and time to go.

Stupid 3 pm meeting.

Blow a great set by missing the wave I wanted, duck dive through the rest of the set, then get ancy and catch a middling right.

Long paddle to inside, but once there, snag a fine crumble to the sand.

Edit:

In past 5 surfs, broken one leash, one leash string. But not today!
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
That kind of passive aggressive hassling is so obnoxious and uncalled for. Big, open playing field and pumping swell today. Go find another bar, asshole.

7@16 small, Doof? :p You sound like an OB vet who's seen a lot of huge swells. Great OB numbers, IMO. Big enough to thrill but not downright frightening. Thought this afternoon was down a bit from that, but still really solid.

Got out further south than usual around 2:30 and had an hour before a meeting. Paddle was easy. Big, glassy mounds rolling through the lineup. Not quite hollow enough to get barreled but long, rifling walls. Few guys in my vicinity and vibe was golden. Some fun rights with big bottom turns, pocket rides and high-speed carves on the 7'2 Hess. Would have stayed out until sundown if I had the time.
 
Last edited:

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,261
4,654
113
I was watching on the beach from 12:45 to almost 2pm.
Daddy Duty.

Got out further south than usual around 2:30 and had an hour before a meeting. Paddle was easy. Big, glassy mounds rolling through the lineup. Not quite hollow enough to get barreled but long, rifling walls. Few guys in my vicinity and vibe was golden. Some fun rights with big bottom turns, pocket rides and high-speed carves on the 7'2 Hess. Would have stayed out until sundown if I had the time.

That was mostly what I saw. More forgiving than yesterday. Some bombs, but more rideable in betweeners today as well. Yesterday seemed like bombs or lulls. A surprising amount of chandeliering and dropping in for the first 30 minutes.

Lots of racy pocket rides, down carves, and speed runs on Padillacs. Lots of happy campers on the beach.
Except for the girl that walked up the stairs with what looked like a 6'0".
"Get a couple?"
"Umm, not exactly"

Well. Yeah.

Anyone know the old guy with the bike trailer that rides a longboard?
Pro surf check guy - out.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Anyone know the old guy with the bike trailer that rides a longboard?
I've been chatting with him for several years now. He swims at China Beach. We swapped spinal injury stories once. He's got a lot of damage from big Beach but still out there. Kinda salty about the crowds and lack of ultra long period swells post 90s ("we used to regularly see 25 second swells"), but a nice guy.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bob Dobbalina

Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,438
7,750
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Anyone know the old guy with the bike trailer that rides a longboard?
If it's the guy I'm thinking(how many can there be) he is a real tool to surf around.

Today was smaller. Surfed the inside bar because the outside was a mush ball. Good peaks mixed in with long walls that dredged and doubled up. Got more so and turned into a meat grinder as the outside bar started to go hollow. Had to go to work then. But the 7'2 twin was sweet on some critical drops into the pocket strait into some cheater fives. Buttery
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,488
23,077
113
Tower 13
a little inconsistent but some fun ones this morning. Rode the stap cause I wanted to see how the JJF L would work and even though the waves weren't big enough I got a good feel for the board and I love it. Settled in to a nice two board winter combo this year and I'm digging them. 6'1 nugget has enough width in the outline to handle smaller stuff if needed but still handles waves that throw pretty good. The stap is amazing. Paddles really well, holds in bigger waves, but is still surprisingly nimble for a 6'4". My last wave was a little inside waist high runner that stood up beautifully and I still managed some nice turns.
IMG_5761.jpg
 

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,720
6,380
113
fun chest-head high sets with some open corners at the beachie at high tide, got some decent rights and lefts. light crowd which was surprising. love the RNF96 with BMTs. need to order another eventually that's exact same dims but thicccer.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,855
7,752
113
San Francisco, CA
Dawn patrol to spot I normally wouldn't trouble myself with at high/incoming tide.

In my mind's eye, what happens after running to the sand and squeaking out through the inside was a wave slaying barrel fest with deep critical take offs and gouging turns, hacking slashes, babes on beach weeping at the display of surfing virtuosity.

In reality (from person's perspective show shore), it is: hey that guy got an ok one/ ha, he got nail by the lip...no wait, he still made it/ that was a weak-assed turn, but it didn't close out on him, the lucky dog/ wow, tube...oh he didn't come out/that was a nice duck dive/he went on that dribbler?/oh, that was a decent left/lucked into that right after he barely made the drop/shoulder hopper spaz thinks he is so cool/can't believe the lip didn't knock him off the board/oh that was decent/ another lucky one/dorked that drop and got clobbered, ha!/ did he try a floater or blow an off the lip attempt?/ that set cleaned him right on up/ he seemed a little undergunned for that wave/another air drop to spazzy bottom turn, ugly, ugly ride/now that was a clean left, ooo, nearly hit that guy...what was that idiot doing on the inside just sitting there anyway.


7@16 small, Doof? :p You sound like an OB vet who's seen a lot of huge swells. Great OB numbers, IMO. Big enough to thrill but not downright frightening. Thought this afternoon was down a bit from that, but still really solid.
Probably to some, but for me, not really, and after the day before, it was technically smaller. Bouy report was showing the numbers of 7 ft at 16 secs. Day before I had a decent serving of fear after getting annihilated on the way back out. Was haired out for the rest of that session, so next day (source of yesterday's report), had the opportunity to dispel the (fear) monkey on the shoulder.

That kind of passive aggressive hassling is so obnoxious and uncalled for. Big, open playing field and pumping swell today. Go find another bar, asshole.
Normally don't mind questions like this if I am just sitting or waiting for the something else, but when I am out further, deeper, the wave is starting to crest, I am paddling hard, getting anything but "GO! GO! GO!" just ticks me off no end.

"Are you going?" Sheesh!
 
Last edited:

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,857
11,266
113
San Diego
my turn for fun ended up a little later than I wanted but tide wasn’t too drained by the time I got out.

big crowd but they must have been out for the better tide as it was down to 3 peeps after a few sets.

rode the twinsman first time long time. right boar for the occasion but kinda wished I was on the flare.
 
Last edited:

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
conditions looked kinda similar to yesterday's fun sesh. 10 guys out, not bad. gonna try the P2 with twin+trailer. Well, within 15 min, the crowd tripled. Older crew on bigger boars snaggin all the sets. grabbed a couple insiders and was over it. Went in frustrated. Amazing how much the crowd factors in.

Drove in wet wetsuit (KOTD!) over to another spot. Waves weren't as good as spot 1, but only 3 dudes out, so paddled out on Lightblender with Pyzel twins. Grabbed a couple smaller rights (sets were closing out) but there was an annoying guy with a Craig gut on an old R. mid hoggin the better ones.

Decided to paddle down to a reef just south. Tide was draining by now so lots of reef showing. On my way, a nice right popped up in between spots. CH wall to race, kick out just before exposed rocks. Stayed at this rando peak by myself (stocked) and got a 3-4 more: sets were fun racetracks, while insiders let me do couple carves.
[Edit: Forgot, a SUPer came over and 000'ed me. He picked one up from under my priority and came from deep when I was in the perfect spot for the right. I got reforested! He didn't make the section and straightened out but I had already stopped paddling. Ugh. I was so salty after that, maybe irrationally so. I got 2 more and started to paddle over around the exposed reef to go in. I saw him take off late on a steep right. He went down like a sniper got him from the cliff. I was laughing my ass off as I saw his stupid red(!) & black SUP get washed in over the exposed reef and rocks. By the time I was walking up, the boar was dry-docked on a big rock and he was still rock dancing with his dumb paddle. Idiot. Karma's a bitch!]


Boar + fins felt nice. Solid, no surprises, did exactly what I wanted. Haven't ridden the Lightbringer in a while. Just an easy fun fish outline that can be pushed harder than my TKF. Love the varial 646 build too. Still feels nice n light to me.
 
Last edited:

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Sorry duus.

Just haven’t been motivated to post much here lately.

Been working on the NS for over a month right in
front of my regular spot. So I’ve been surfing a lot.
The only days I haven’t surfed are the ginormous days and the week long howling north wind episode.

Been riding 5’10’s. Last years Tokoro 4X, which is a truly Magic boar and the Tokoro Project 3 on smaller softer days. Even on some of the bigger wash thru days been on the 4X.

Wade made me a 6’0 4X before he got hurt and it took me a few surfs on it to suss it out. Had him up the volume and it felt boaty but threw in the large H4’s and it works fine. Rode the 6’1 HIC M7 Kerry Tokoro made me last year a couple times and that boars been fun too. Tails a little pinny if the swell is too west.

Dawned it today on the Pro 3 but the waves were smaller, barely head high and a little broken up. Got bored and went in fast since we scored the last two days.

Been seeing some interesting people in the water and had fun chatting them up. Met Ashton , he does the Red Bull “No Contest” videos and I think he works for Stab. He just moved here and has been surfing my regular. I paddled up to him after a wave I asked him hey you’re da guy? We exchanged introductions and I told him you surf way better than in your videos you should fire the editor. He said they like to show him getting donuts. Haha. He’s a good surfer. Big dude, rode a mid-length one morning and was on a Mayhem RNF the next day. Ripping.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Tube feast indeed. Snuck out for another quicky on the low tide, this time further south, which was a touch smaller and more rippable than the middle.

Easy paddle with no grinding inside bar, just a really long trough with current and chop leading to the outside. Bars on this end a little closer to shore, so it was hollower than the deep water spots north.

Right into a deep barrel, sneaking just under the lip for a swirling vision before getting eaten up and pinned to the bottom. That'll get the juices flowing. Repeat a couple more times, still too deep or getting clamped. Easy to get in but tough to make it out.

Next right has a nice bowly wall to sink the Twin Pin into. I try to go more vertical on the next section but come down and pearl. End up meandering north, grabbing a backwashy left that almost bucks me off and leaves me stranded inside the biggest set of the session. Work my way through several whitewaters getting back outside, recover, then watch a guy 20 yards to my left get the wave of the session, a screaming right barrel and wall that carries him 200 yards south. Grab a shitty insider and that's a wrap.

Great week of waves, but needing a real marathon sesh and a quality barrel make to feel satisfied.
 
Last edited:

Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
355
848
93
haven't posted on this in a while, but I'm really pumped on the last few days

Tues: Pm session, right as the tide turns around from low (so it gets worse), and the wind shifted a bit more N. Thought I'd be overgunned on the 8' but it turned out to be right. Paddled around aimlessly for like an hour waiting for sets that weren't really coming. Took off on a right -- I was behind the peak but it looked like just a short wall in front of me. Whole thing heaves and get the best most wide open barrel I've gotten in a long time. Literally just got that one wave then straightened out on a closeout and went in.

Weds PM: Smaller, friendly size, barely breaking on the outer bars but super clean and beautiful. Surfed a beat up and browned 6'8" bonzer that I've had forever but have only recently started connecting with. No barrels but a few really nice feeling swoops. For whatever reason I had the wave catching mojo, peaks were just headed my direction.

Today: Drove by another beach, little rip bowl at the end looks like it's working. Caught like a dozen small little doubling up waves in a row in like 30 min. A few other guys paddle out (they were polite about it) and the switch just turns off and I fall on three in a row and just head in, lol.