Late morning perrrfect reef on the dropping tide. Glassy and peeling SW sets. Had it to myself for a good chunk of the 2 hrs I was out.
I’m done. think I’ll take the weekend off.
I’m done. think I’ll take the weekend off.
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
some days I get so jealous of you work week mid-day sesh sarfers
Met up with a fellow work week mid-day sesh sarfer Oeste for a quickie in his zone before a work call. It was a bit slow but there were some fun waves, I got a fun right and left before I called it. After the call was over I hopefully checked a popular spot thinking it might not be that crowded but it was. Surfed a different wave that prefers different swell and tide but it was still fun, just one other frothy grom out. As the tide rushed out a little slabby section popped up that we both tried and failed to hunt down, but I still got one off the normal take off that let me stall for a little vision. Perfect weather and no wind, stock is high.
Couple hours at the point Testing out the hovercraft low end.
buddy was letting me drop in behind him and turn off his wake. Good times sharing tiny waves! Nice day too
life is good!
buddy was letting me drop in behind him and turn off his wake. Good times sharing tiny waves! Nice day too
life is good!
Sounds like a good bonus sesh!
We ended up near yesterday’s random low tide peak. Crowd thinned out nicely pretty quickly after we got outside. Saw MD get a good looking left that he surfed well with speed and flow. Caught a bunch of WH+ racy little rights and one left with no real shoulder. Half of them would closeout, but the ones that lined up were pretty speedy. Sadly, I couldn’t scratch into what I thought was gonna be my wave of the day. Bummed it just wouldn’t let me in.
Ran the Lightbender with Pyzels again… good stuff.
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couldn't motivate from what I saw this morning but I knew with the swell and right place/tide somewhere would be good today. stocked some people scored.
tomorrow I may not even look, just go lol
tomorrow I may not even look, just go lol
Dawned the NS regular. Almost no wind, two guys out. Later on the most people out were 6, only one person I didn’t know. It was small and the sky looked like a front was building up which is why no crowd.
Waves were really fun. Two small swells, little bigger west but the nuggets were the north double ups. Been learning to stay behind and under the double ups. They look like it’ll run to the channel but you mostly just gotta stay deep and stroke from behind.
We traded waves for an hour and a half until the front brought north wind and heavy rain.
Rained out at our job site but got some fun waves.
Waves were really fun. Two small swells, little bigger west but the nuggets were the north double ups. Been learning to stay behind and under the double ups. They look like it’ll run to the channel but you mostly just gotta stay deep and stroke from behind.
We traded waves for an hour and a half until the front brought north wind and heavy rain.
Rained out at our job site but got some fun waves.
I've done a yolo. I think it is anwyay. Craig Anderson Meat Tray by Drag boards. 45". Essentially I bought myself something with the hydrodynamics of a door. Its got the Ando logo on the deck 
This was my 3rd time on it, two days ago. Staying on is a bit of battle. I've been out on an old 42" in the week prior to this about 4 times. The difficulty on the 42 was that my foot kept missing the tail. Got nowhere on first sesh, but waves were difficult and pitching then about a 20% success pop up rate the second sesh. The Drag Ando is a lot easier and better for me.
This was my 3rd time on it, two days ago. Staying on is a bit of battle. I've been out on an old 42" in the week prior to this about 4 times. The difficulty on the 42 was that my foot kept missing the tail. Got nowhere on first sesh, but waves were difficult and pitching then about a 20% success pop up rate the second sesh. The Drag Ando is a lot easier and better for me.
the usual and it's neighbor bars looked horrible this morning again. went exploring and found a decent bar where I normally don't surf. Soft lefts and rights making it an ok sesh then I drifted a bit away from the crowd and got two bigger set rights that closed out on the peak and I capitalized. couple solid cracks on one wave and a nice speed line to arc combo on the other. Flare just eats thigh to chest high waves no matter the shape. Surfed into gentlemans hour and was cooking for once. I can't believe how much warmer it was.
Not trying to be funny, but why try to stand up on a boog? Surely there’s more efficient softie outlines / options, even from Drag.I've done a yolo. I think it is anwyay. Craig Anderson Meat Tray by Drag boards. 45". Essentially I bought myself something with the hydrodynamics of a door. Its got the Ando logo on the deck
This was my 3rd time on it, two days ago. Staying on is a bit of battle. I've been out on an old 42" in the week prior to this about 4 times. The difficulty on the 42 was that my foot kept missing the tail. Got nowhere on first sesh, but waves were difficult and pitching then about a 20% success pop up rate the second sesh. The Drag Ando is a lot easier and better for me.
Did you wait til 9am to take off your 5mil lobster claw mitts? RowJimmy would be disgusted. He’s out at dawn in a vest and trunks.
Dude I didn’t even need my dry suit this morning!
Little bit of drizzle but howling offshore winds and some residual SH-HH+ swell in the water. Too high tide for outer bars to really work but walked down to a peak down the beach, wide open channel, with great waves pouring through. Unfortunately a TON of current pushing you north and out so it required constant paddling to stay on top of the peak.
But when you did... lefts stood straight up into the wind and outgoing current and drops slingshotted you right down the line where it eventually burgered. The bigger lefts ended up being more peaky and burgered pretty fast but the inbetweeners would line up and squeeze you right down the line like a grape. As long as you were in the right spot, takeoffs weren't too bad considering wind was driving hard up the face and you were pretty much blind dropping into it.
Got several really fun waves but then got hit with the "one last wave" curse for about 20 minutes. After much futility fighting the current and being frustratingly barely out of position, a gem popped up, smooth drop, and got beautifully shacked. Wave went square right when I was in sweet spot of wave and was perched 3-4 feet deep in the barrel for an extended view. Cruised through it for a while, sensed the roof about to collapse (lot of barrels pinched shut), and pulled ejection cord through bottom of the barrel right as it got brown and churny and barely got touched by the wave. Easy choice to go rest of the way in after that.
But when you did... lefts stood straight up into the wind and outgoing current and drops slingshotted you right down the line where it eventually burgered. The bigger lefts ended up being more peaky and burgered pretty fast but the inbetweeners would line up and squeeze you right down the line like a grape. As long as you were in the right spot, takeoffs weren't too bad considering wind was driving hard up the face and you were pretty much blind dropping into it.
Got several really fun waves but then got hit with the "one last wave" curse for about 20 minutes. After much futility fighting the current and being frustratingly barely out of position, a gem popped up, smooth drop, and got beautifully shacked. Wave went square right when I was in sweet spot of wave and was perched 3-4 feet deep in the barrel for an extended view. Cruised through it for a while, sensed the roof about to collapse (lot of barrels pinched shut), and pulled ejection cord through bottom of the barrel right as it got brown and churny and barely got touched by the wave. Easy choice to go rest of the way in after that.
hmm, I've ended up with the performance level of a beginner on an 8' foamie, so my initial reaction to your question was that I can't explain the urge to stand up on a boog. I went in again on it this morning in more challenging conditions and I would have had more successful rides on a regular boar.
Looking more deeply into the question of why, I think it is because it is a new experience and the challenge of trying to control a planing surface with no fins. Its not easy. Things that are easy are less satisfying. There is that sensation of directionless skidding at times, like a skimboard. This can be a nice sensation, but is only part of it. Its a bit like skateboarding, its all about learning a trick or repeating one that is not easy, the trick itself may not have a great sensation, but completing is what provides the motivation.
Yes, Drag do longer softies with fins, but that also leads to the question of why ride a softie at all if efficiency/performance is what we are chasing?
Waited for the tide to start down showing up @10:00. Primarily W swell with an occasional S influence in the 3-5' range. Bit lully but sets had multiple waves, wind fluctuated but stayed light even after I got out at 1:30. Shape improved through out the session, sadly off my game a little today. Made some good turns on the 6-2 basalt twinzer, but out of rhythm.
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I surfed today!! Ended up getting a few fun lefts during the high tide on the HPTC, chatted with friends. I’ll take it!
Quick surf at the beach out front. Surfline was saying the wind was supposed to swing around S in the morning, looked near noon and it was still SE. Kinda fun mixed up inner bar peaks with no wall. Only one other guy way up and way down the beach With better luck I coulda taken off behind a peak and found at least a little head dip, but I just took off on a few shoulders. After 30 min the wind finally swung around.
Took a small gulp of runoff water while surfacing from one so tomorrow I should have either a stomach bug or maybe a mutant power.
Took a small gulp of runoff water while surfacing from one so tomorrow I should have either a stomach bug or maybe a mutant power.
yesterday was so fun! Surfed down the street.
Had to do a little rock dance to get out which got the blood going.
Super fun fast rights running along.
looking windy and not so fun today
Had to do a little rock dance to get out which got the blood going.
Super fun fast rights running along.
looking windy and not so fun today
My buddy said he was going to the longboat point for some high tide runners. By the time I got out the door after helping the kids clean up their friggin mess all over the house, endured their tantrums about having to do something “not fun”, and then got gas, it was 90min later. Passed my friend on the way down LOL, he was annoyed I was so late but said it was fun around the corner.
7’0 Dankness with Rasta quads was pretty much perfect for the WH+ crumbly runners. Busted out my semi-annual KOTD narrow-stance soul bro longbort moves. Got about 10 long rights, sitting right next to a fat boil that was spoiling the rides of the guys furthest out on the point. Fun, ledgy takeoff then mostly trimming trying to keep up with the soft but fast pocket, find some open face to gutback or carve, trim some more, maybe a lil shuffle-shuffle-cheater5, then kick out after 50-75yds. Crowd had tripled while I was out so I took a smaller but lined up one all the way in.
Fun lil sesh. Dankness catches everything with its flat rocker, so paddles and surfs from the front two-thirds like a longer boar, but turns really nice n smooth from the tail. Crap. Maybe i am a ML guy after all!
7’0 Dankness with Rasta quads was pretty much perfect for the WH+ crumbly runners. Busted out my semi-annual KOTD narrow-stance soul bro longbort moves. Got about 10 long rights, sitting right next to a fat boil that was spoiling the rides of the guys furthest out on the point. Fun, ledgy takeoff then mostly trimming trying to keep up with the soft but fast pocket, find some open face to gutback or carve, trim some more, maybe a lil shuffle-shuffle-cheater5, then kick out after 50-75yds. Crowd had tripled while I was out so I took a smaller but lined up one all the way in.
Fun lil sesh. Dankness catches everything with its flat rocker, so paddles and surfs from the front two-thirds like a longer boar, but turns really nice n smooth from the tail. Crap. Maybe i am a ML guy after all!
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