I know all I ever do on here is complain about the cold but today really was stupidly cold. There's snow visible on the mountains from the beach. The wind was offshore, strong and frigid. It hailed hard on me while I was surfing and I was half expecting to see a narwhal swim by. Had trouble deciding what to ride but settled on the swordfish as a thruster w/ the mayhem fins. It was probably not the ideal board as it ended up being bigger than it looked but it handled pretty well, all things considered. The waves were clean and mostly closed out but there were some very hollow corners to be had if one was lucky and/or good enough, which I mostly wasn't at least for the first frustrating half of the session. Eventually, maybe the tide finally hit a sweet spot, I got into a decent rhythm. It started with a shouldery left that allowed for a couple satisfying backside swoops. After that I paddled back to the same spot and got like four lefts in a row. Made one tube. Next one was a runner that didn't allow for turns but was fast and fun anyways. Finally a thick one cornered up and I got into it cleanly and pulled into a wide open section. I got a great view and traveled for a moment before getting absolutely flogged. I'm not sure exactly what happened but I think at one point my feet were sticking out of the top of the lip as I was getting rag dolled. Afterwards I think I was too numb to feel anything but now, hours later, my whole body hurts.
To quote Danny Glover in Lethal Weapon, "I'm getting too old for this sh!t".
