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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Fun session with one of my long time surf buddies here in the 805.
not so fun getting hit in the face by my board in a micro barrel and dry docking my board on reef.
hahaha oops!
super nice day . think I need about 6 beers now!
not so fun getting hit in the face by my board in a micro barrel and dry docking my board on reef.
hahaha oops!
super nice day . think I need about 6 beers now!
Cold this morning - car was iced. Took my sweet time this morning, tide was dropping out anyways. Surf should have been good with some SH-HH+ sets coming in from time to time but the wind blew like hell last night apparently because a ton of 3-4 second chop that made it hard to read. Some waves jacked and broke, some did not and you wouldn't know until you could see over the chop. Seems to be a recurring theme lately for me.
The bright side is that some of that chop aligned well with waves to make some wedgy lefts. After getting eaten by chop on drop the first two waves, third time was the charm and got a nice off-the-lip right where the chop pushed against the waves, felt good to get that bounce and feel some water displace. Managed to do that a few times and still managed to get quite a few fun waves, mostly lefts but an occasional right. All those massive storms earlier this month don't seem to have done anything helpful for the sand, unfortunately. Wind was offshore which helped counterbalance the chop until the chop took over.
Even though I could have surfed for longer, dropping tide, chop, and disintegrating conditions told enough of the story, got a couple more waves that I've already forgotten, got a shorebreak reform left which I should not have pointed as it dredged. Mostly the right straight into my face, tried to doggy-door escape it and got denied. In the form of blown up and ragdolled with a lot more force than I would have expected. Back of my right shoulder is sore as fuck and can't raise my arm over my head right now; have a feeling I was really lucky not to dislocate it. I could tell the fishermen on the beach were amused; it's OK I was too. I may have forgotten the waves before that but I'm not going to forget that one.
The bright side is that some of that chop aligned well with waves to make some wedgy lefts. After getting eaten by chop on drop the first two waves, third time was the charm and got a nice off-the-lip right where the chop pushed against the waves, felt good to get that bounce and feel some water displace. Managed to do that a few times and still managed to get quite a few fun waves, mostly lefts but an occasional right. All those massive storms earlier this month don't seem to have done anything helpful for the sand, unfortunately. Wind was offshore which helped counterbalance the chop until the chop took over.
Even though I could have surfed for longer, dropping tide, chop, and disintegrating conditions told enough of the story, got a couple more waves that I've already forgotten, got a shorebreak reform left which I should not have pointed as it dredged. Mostly the right straight into my face, tried to doggy-door escape it and got denied. In the form of blown up and ragdolled with a lot more force than I would have expected. Back of my right shoulder is sore as fuck and can't raise my arm over my head right now; have a feeling I was really lucky not to dislocate it. I could tell the fishermen on the beach were amused; it's OK I was too. I may have forgotten the waves before that but I'm not going to forget that one.
Careful out there folks.
I've had 2 friends blow out their orbital socket in the last few months. One in SD, the other in Sonoma.
Quick dawn patrol in Los Angeles with my buddy who lives up here. Dropped off his fresh mitsven mini sim and he waxed it up for a go. Rode my flare and got a couple pretty fun ones into the shore break. I’m pretty sure I saw @waxurDyl but my socially a ward self didn’t paddle up and say hi. ♂
crowd was a comical sh!t show dumpster fire. I tried to be stealthy lol
crowd was a comical sh!t show dumpster fire. I tried to be stealthy lol
Forcasted to be blown out all day, but by some Sunday miracle the wind did a full 180 around noon. Just a few of us sharing the stretch between L and M. Super fun short period combo swell made for peaky conditions on the inner bar with barrels and sections to be had. Got some head-dips and hacks. Also got stuck inside on a gnar bar going nowhere for about 10 minutes before punching through.
Rode the CI Twin Pin. Ideal for the conditions. Has a sensitive performance feel mixed with the looseness and release of a twin. I'm still getting used to it. Might have looked a little squirely at times, but I'm loving the potential.
P.S. I have a leash string story, too, but I'll save that for the relevant thread.
Rode the CI Twin Pin. Ideal for the conditions. Has a sensitive performance feel mixed with the looseness and release of a twin. I'm still getting used to it. Might have looked a little squirely at times, but I'm loving the potential.
P.S. I have a leash string story, too, but I'll save that for the relevant thread.
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A new right hand sand bar was firing last night. I've had my eye on this one for a while, waiting for the right conditions. It's rare for the sand to pile up so far outside but with the winter we've had so far there is some interesting stuff going on. From the cliff it looked like it might be a quick ride but in reality there was enough room to do get speed and do a couple turns before the wave shut down or closed out right in front of a pile of exposed reef. The drops were steep and there was plenty of tube potential. More of a compact, bowly face than a wide open wall. Lots of power with the 18+ second interval. A few wide sets to duckdive but nothing too annoying. The rip was strong at times and I got sucked out to far once or twice but mostly I stayed a little wide and inside and busy. Some of the smaller ones were probably the better waves. It'd look like a waist high wave and I'd paddle in and by the time I'm making my bottom turn the thing is head high and heaving. I didn't text anyone, just surfed it alone for a couple hours. Rode my old 6-3 SMTH squash tail. Not really sure why, just grabbed it on a whim. It felt just about perfect for the conditions. I like how well it glides into waves with the wider nose and the rocker felt great for the tight pockets.
Near the end of the session a younger guy from the next town down the coast paddled out. He's struggled to figure it out and kept getting pulled a little too far out by the rip. He's a decent surfer but it looked challenging for him on the backhand. Made me wonder how I would have done if it was a left. It'd have been tough I think. He managed to get a couple before the sun set and he seemed stocked. He almost got washed through the rocks on the inside after taking a wide one and not kicking out in time. While he was stuck inside I got my best wave of the session, a turn and a tube, right in front of him.
The sunset was quick, with a nice, magenta afterglow. The already cold air temp plummeted as the darkness grew. The ocean went a little quiet so I took a smaller one in which ended up having an exciting inside section and an even more exciting belly ride through all of the barely submerged reef boils.
Near the end of the session a younger guy from the next town down the coast paddled out. He's struggled to figure it out and kept getting pulled a little too far out by the rip. He's a decent surfer but it looked challenging for him on the backhand. Made me wonder how I would have done if it was a left. It'd have been tough I think. He managed to get a couple before the sun set and he seemed stocked. He almost got washed through the rocks on the inside after taking a wide one and not kicking out in time. While he was stuck inside I got my best wave of the session, a turn and a tube, right in front of him.
The sunset was quick, with a nice, magenta afterglow. The already cold air temp plummeted as the darkness grew. The ocean went a little quiet so I took a smaller one in which ended up having an exciting inside section and an even more exciting belly ride through all of the barely submerged reef boils.
Small but fun early til it got inconsistent. Flare was perfect. Water is fgcking cold
That last paragraph was lovely prose… but frankly, the narrative really could’ve used some waterfall
His last paragraph displayed the yin an yang of ruker
Should have snuck in and rifled through his van...imagine the treasures within!
North beaches were cleaner than a chip factory this morning. Not a drop of water out of place. Small but super fun, and nobody else out.
No more prose for you fakkas. Havent surfed this spot in years. Stocked to finally see it set up. Cold AF, empty and very fun. 6-6 Stamps felt good but i probably wont ride it as a quad again. More betta as a truster.
Yesterday mixed up wind swell off shore about chest high with some tubelettes. Vaquero was the call but wished for the parmy on a couple set waves. Fun overall many adult learners on mid lengths were not helpful for them was a theme.
tiday 5@18 clean no wind dropping tide. Pulled out the 7’10 Serena pocket Rocket haven’t ridden it for awhile and some undignified foot placements and timing aspects happen the first few waves coming from a 5’10. But got 3 set waves the peeled off nicely. Last one had some big bumps that created some nice chop hops for northern shores. Today was full of 20 something’s on 6’hpsb getting stuck on the takeoff and destroyed. Long lulls and long paddles back out but fun.
tiday 5@18 clean no wind dropping tide. Pulled out the 7’10 Serena pocket Rocket haven’t ridden it for awhile and some undignified foot placements and timing aspects happen the first few waves coming from a 5’10. But got 3 set waves the peeled off nicely. Last one had some big bumps that created some nice chop hops for northern shores. Today was full of 20 something’s on 6’hpsb getting stuck on the takeoff and destroyed. Long lulls and long paddles back out but fun.
Made it out for two sessions today. Outgoing tide early with thick fog and virtually no wind. Waist high tapered wedges were rolling into a notch in the sandbar, hitting the edge and peeling off across a terrace feature. Session number two was similar but with more size/grunt on the incoming. Snagged a few bowled up rights going backside, some zippy lefts and managed to get tiny and squeak through a pint-sized cover up.
haven't surged in almost 2 months. had that nasty flu over the break and family+work stuff just gets in the way of my QS campaign. rode the stamps long line tkf and had fun. very fast boar and great paddler. low rail lets it knife into waves with confidence. got pummelled on the cleanup sets. weird, waist to chest with occasional OH set lolz. one guy tried to backpaddle me and I just went, highlined and dusted the kook. guy padled away from me the rest of the session. forgot to soul arch but at least I didn't down carve. very stocked to get back in the agua.