Morning sesh at reef #2. Looked fun and HH from shore, so grabbed the twinsman rp with akilas. Sets were building OH+. Lots of water moving around, paddling and duck dove a lot. The lefts were steeper, but closing out after a couple pumps racing a fast wall. Right was a bit slopey-er, but I was hunting the elusive ones that would line up all the way through. Caught a couple each way.
I normally don't have issues with booties but for some reason, the combo of the booties and concave deck made it hard to sort my feet out on a couple if I didn't stand up in the right spot. The ones I did get my feet right, the board handled the steep drops and carved big arcs and felt great.
After 45 min, I paddled for the first wave of a set, missed it, and got crushed by the third wave which detonated right in front of me. Rodeoflipped me underwater and put me in the spin cycle. Swallowed some water and got humbled. Phew. Gets the adrenaline pumpin. Managed to paddle straight south on the inside to get mostly around the rest of the set. Caught my breath for a min, considered going in, and decided to try to get one more right since I was already on that side. When I got out to the lineup, my friend said Welcome back! LOL
Well, my perseverance was rewarded with my best wave of the day, a long clean HH right that I was able to swoop and race and carve all the way to the inside. Glad I didn't go in with my tail between my legs. Could've used the blackbird for paddling around the big lineup, but man, the Twinsman is so fun to surf.