***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

ChaseTMP

Billy Hamilton status
Apr 6, 2014
1,712
3,118
113
S. Redondo
Got semi skunked this morning. Went to my usual reef hoping there would be enough swell to overcome the just a bit too high tide, not the case. Or at least not while I was out there. I got 5 waves in an hour with no competition but only a couple were any good, even then quite soft. Figured I'd swing by the beach to see if it was workable between the highish tide and lower than expected swell. Apparently during the 10 minute drive the swell showed up. Saw sets closing the whole place out. Hoping I can maybe squeeze a more rewarding session in tonight.
Hope you get better sesh tonight.
 
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PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,514
8,551
113
Watched a beginner kid ditch his dad's firewire when a head high wave broke on him. The board came up creased. I told him he needed to put it in the trash can because it's a firewire and - worse - now it's buckled.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Surfed the same reef again, still pretty uncrowded. Saw some bigger sets as I pulled up but went with the Banjo on account of the rising tide. Definitely the right call, sets were head high, one or two were a bit bigger but a bit soft minus a section or two. I love how easy it is to fly down the line. The guys riding step ups and regular short boards couldn't connect the south peak all the way through but the banjo made it easy. Not a ton of turns, I felt pretty mellow/cruisey today. Stocked for my new one.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Morning sesh at reef #2. Looked fun and HH from shore, so grabbed the twinsman rp with akilas. Sets were building OH+. Lots of water moving around, paddling and duck dove a lot. The lefts were steeper, but closing out after a couple pumps racing a fast wall. Right was a bit slopey-er, but I was hunting the elusive ones that would line up all the way through. Caught a couple each way.

I normally don't have issues with booties but for some reason, the combo of the booties and concave deck made it hard to sort my feet out on a couple if I didn't stand up in the right spot. The ones I did get my feet right, the board handled the steep drops and carved big arcs and felt great.

After 45 min, I paddled for the first wave of a set, missed it, and got crushed by the third wave which detonated right in front of me. Rodeoflipped me underwater and put me in the spin cycle. Swallowed some water and got humbled. Phew. Gets the adrenaline pumpin. Managed to paddle straight south on the inside to get mostly around the rest of the set. Caught my breath for a min, considered going in, and decided to try to get one more right since I was already on that side. When I got out to the lineup, my friend said Welcome back! LOL
Well, my perseverance was rewarded with my best wave of the day, a long clean HH right that I was able to swoop and race and carve all the way to the inside. Glad I didn't go in with my tail between my legs. Could've used the blackbird for paddling around the big lineup, but man, the Twinsman is so fun to surf.
 
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Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Surfed the reef. Waves were HH+ on the sets. Tide was kinda high, but not really high, medium all day. ARggh, couldn't buy a wave. Too far in, too deep, too many guys already have it, burned by SUPer, burned by bro, you name it. Then the crowd doubled, and the off-shore cold Santa Ana kicked in like crazy. Too much for the LB, outta here. Worst sess of the season for me, can only improve from here. At least the waves were still good. Got rousted for not surfing over the 3-day weekend.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,214
17,644
113
Petak Island
3 out of 4 spots I watched today had some epic looking moments that had me crying out.

One spot middle section trying very hard to do a not quite as fast impression of Jbay.

Next spot south was just reeling head high rights, perfect, not too crowded either. A spot I rarely surf but today looked rippable on a shortboard.

Next reef south was the best I think I've seen it. Offshore magic.

Blacks, well, everyone was pulling in. Nothing crazy but total barrelfest.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
checked a few spots and places that arent' usually very good were going off, finally parked suited up and waited for a lull and paddled into a 20 wave set, got a little winded by that which was appropriate because the wind was howling offshore, missed a few gems with the wind just blowing me out the back, finally sat in under everyone and got a nice barrel in front of a friend who was paddling out couldn't see sh!t on takeoff but the rest was butter, underneath tactics got me blown up by a set and I had to bail so I don't tear off what's left of the ligaments holding my shoulder on. by the time I got out I was pretty cold in the 4/3 with the howling winds, did I say the wind was howling! another epic day in an epic run..
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,098
113
Tower 13
maiden voyage on the GH keel. One of the fastest boards I've ever ridden. He put some width in it and I could feel it so it might be better suited for the smaller end of its intended range.

brand new dakine comp leash. second wave I fall and the leash snaps. unbelieveable. maybe a stomach high wave?

air was warm so I was plenty toasty in the feral 4/3 no booties.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
I've had such bad experiences with Dakine leashes, never again.

I wore booties figuring there'd be some upwelling but wished I hadn't. The water was pretty nice, even with the cold offshores.

My buddy convinced me to surf our usual spot even though it was looking pretty small. There were some decent sets but the crowd was decent and the current made for a sneaky treadmill. Rode the disorder for the first time at a beach break, the speed was welcome to make it all the way through. Didn't surf my best but I think I'm pretty worn out from this run.
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,042
8,981
113
Central California
My usual spot has been out of control big, so I've been sheltering at other spots.

Since things calmed down a bit today, I was able to take the Burch gimmick out for some really fun down-the-line waves today with perfect conditions and a mellow crowd (for once). Got a bunch of speedy sections with some safety swoops to top it off. Discovered I need to do some serious cardio work if I want to have any sort of stamina past an hour and a half. Time to start a little cross training.