***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[gbg]

I have not surfed in 2021 and I don't care.

My local is mostly closeout city on long period W/NW swells and half the month high tides swamp it out in the morning. I will pass on going to reefs where it is mobbed. Simply not interested.

I surf the least in January and February.

 

[Chee-to]

I have not surfed in 2021 and I don't care.

My local is mostly closeout city on long period W/NW swells and half the month high tides swamp it out in the morning. I will pass on going to reefs where it is mobbed. Simply not interested.

I surf the least in January and February.

I got a reef in the double overhead range with 2-4 other guys out on Saturday. Pretty easy to pick your poison.

 

[gbg]

I got a reef in the double overhead range with 2-4 other guys out on Saturday. Pretty easy to pick your poison.

Since I give you reports with pics, where was that? HAHA.

 

[need 4 speed]

Couple against the grain runners amongst the myriad of walled close outs. Late afternoon glass

 

[feralseppo]

Surfed the same S. LA reef everyone else did at lunch. friend called said he was going. He said there were 3 or 4 people out when he checked it. 40 out when I got there. I’m assuming the newly minted WFH’ers get to knock off at 12.

Warm and sunny and there were head high maybe some overhead slow rollers. Got some long fun ones on the 8’1 Twinzer.

 

[oeste858]

Fun-sized swell the last couple days at the local reef. Very spread out lineup, and the feathering OH+ sets were kinda closing out in big 30 yard sections, so the HH in-betweeners were the ones to hunt. Afternoon sideshore wind was grooming some sections of the wave, but shutting down others that are usually makeable. Lots of paddling and duck-diving. Yesterday on the new Twinsman RP, today on Ghost. Only caught maybe 2 good waves out of 5-6 ridden each session. Ghost did light up in the steeper racier sections.

If I had more than an hour today, I would've sacked up and paddled to the outer reef just to the north- all session I kept looking longingly at the OH+ grinding rights out there. Would've been more Ghost-worthy. Saw my buddy on the beach who had been way out there and he said he got some really good ones. Guy used to be on Rusty in 00's, is still one of the best surfers around, and FWIW he was riding a Stu Kenson six-channel thruster with a narrow swallow tail out there.

 

[b.r.]

yesterday was bigger, but not as much punch, surfed down the beach from where I have been surfing all week, but as the tide dropped out I paddled down to my favorite section and got a few right hand runners on the big sets, more closeouts than the day before but plenty of clean ohead waves again.

 

[CutnSnip]

first surf in 2 weeks in SLA. Kookfest on my part.. just couldnt put it together. Great conditions, a little swampy but some fun peaks coming through. Saw some peeps get some good ones but I was literally tripping over my booties all morning. Felt great to get wet regardless.

 

[ZZ Soft Top]

Since it's 80-degrees here in L.A. and Surflie is reporting the swell height right in the adult learner sweet spot, it was a donkey show (and not the sexy kind) at a local beachie this morning. Was able to get two little wackers before the tide came up and started to backwash things and I had to get to work. Planning some dawn patrol solo missions to places down south this weekend.

EDIT:
Forgot to add, there was a bikini photo shoot happening on the sand as I was walking out.

 

[Tomay]

Swell dropped a touch again to be in the waist to shoulder range. On the positive side the bank seems to benefit from the early morning high tide. Was one of the first to paddle out and managed to catch a tonne of waves (27 according to my watch which I got replaced for free by Apple after last time). Mostly they were takeoffs that fizzled out, but there were a few nice runners in there. I even managed to get two little cover ups, including one that went some distance on a botched takeoff where I slid sideways down the wave before the fins caught and I just happened to be right in the pocket. Got a few nice fast lefts too which opened up for a nice snap. Surfed the Twinny - I love that thing on the wave but am growing increasingly frustrated with the takeoffs, it just gets hung up on takeoff a split second which can see me blow critical takeoffs or not be able to take the best line. Don't know what's causing it.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Got nooner in, just after tide started dropping. Parking lot was still closed so bulldozers could clear sand. 25 peeps at the north peak. Had the outside of the south peak to myself, handful of peeps inside. Basically 40 people spread out over football field sized area. Caught about 10 jibbly+ ones, no real bottom, but the rolling speed allowed for good carves. Handful made it shorepound where you could be challenged and have 4/5 pumps or get left in the dust. Overall very relaxing easy and fun session.

Funny chit:
LA times pushing the high surf advisory for next 4 days. They call "high surf" waves over 4 foot. LOL, one can find a wave face that high here in San Diego on even the flattest of days. Double lol, I just measured, my jibbly nippy stands tall at 51" off the floor.

Cool chit:
Absolutely no wind, not even enough to clear the surf mist from the cliffs to the south.
Co-worker in Poland said it was -19 Celsius this am.
Came home and found that wife bought me a new grinder for prepping the stash.

 

[sdsrfr]

surfed with buncha long hair bearded dudes id never seen before.

size dropped considerably. adult learners afraid to surf the last couple weeks humping the shoulder every wave.

got a few runners and threw some carves but I’m ready for the next pulse of swell.

 

[b.r.]

Got some good ones cut it short at 1 and 1/2 hours as the lulls got longer and the crowd got bigger. Went switch foot on a big left and an old friend said you go faster when you switch stance. Still wondering if that was an insult or a compliment as I sit hear in the jacuzzi enjoying this summer evening in January.

 

[oeste858]

Surfed the Twinny - I love that thing on the wave but am growing increasingly frustrated with the takeoffs, it just gets hung up on takeoff a split second which can see me blow critical takeoffs or not be able to take the best line. Don't know what's causing it.

that happens to me when the board is just a bit too small for me. Tried hard to make a 5’6 quad fish work for months because it was so fun when I was riding, but I just missed too many waves each session, so finally gave up and sold it. Got a 5’9 quad fish that is perfect for me.

Swell dropped a lot today. Still some fun chest-high sets and racetrack rights at the reef just around the corner from the point. Got the 6’1 twinsman RP out again and it really clicked.

Supposed to get big again on Sunday, but I probably won’t get to surf til Monday since I’m on daddy duty. Also sliced a nickel-sized flap off my palm out there when I smacked the reef. Plus, from last weekend's epic KOTD session, my jaw is still sore from smacking my chin on the nose of my board and I have a tiny fin cut surrounded by a giant purple bruise on my thigh. My back and legs are sore too so I could use a couple days outta the water.

BTW It was frickin 80F and sunny today. Beautiful conditions for mid-January!

 

[Mr J]

Yesterday evening on my 5' 6"

 

[b.r.]

last night was the smallest surf I have surfed in 2021 I would guess, still was pretty damn clean and fun and the beach was crowded, boys in bikinis, girls with surfboards everybodys rockin everybodys reelin..

 

[silentbutdeadly]

caught me a cold middle of last week. quick sesh this morning to see how my energy was. mostly closeouts of course but uncrowded. Amazing the absence of covid surfers when you might get worked.

Felt good to get in the water.

Only one good wave, a little left that allowed for three turns. I'll take it.

 

[Brsnstein]

Back to the NOC regular this morning for some occasional long running rights and a little bit of tube time, but never made it out. Best wave was a barrel dodge and two pumps into a wrap that I really got to lay into. Super fun and the blind box round tail is hands down my favorite board right now

 

[bluengreen]

Just had time for a quickie this morning in the XL swell leftovers. Warm, clear morning with Fishermen lining the beach. Took the 8'3 for comfort. 25 minute paddle out with probably a dozen duck dives and three or four board ditches. Once I got out it was solid, smooth and peaky but pretty disorganized. Hard to see my lineup with the morning sun and far distance to the beach, but looked like I got dragged almost three blocks north. Large, pitching left came to me pretty quickly, and was good for a near air drop and race to the shoulder. Got an insider that reformed and took me through a couple fun bowl sections all the way to the beach. Nice to be back at The Beach. Love how spread out the lineup is on these medium big and imperfect mornings.

 

[b.r.]

tried to go to a spot I thought would be good with the tide just passed and starting to go down but after 2 passes and no parking spot in the zone I drove to a spot where i can park in a friends driveway, tide was gonna be too high for the spot i thought but I peeked and saw some big sets hitting the reef and going off, but once I paddled out if they were the biggest ones I was too far inside and took them on the head, and if they didn't quite hit the reef I was too far out and missed them, got 2 really good waves in two hours and a bunch of closeouts, but the bum shoulder is singing now, saw some friends get some good ones so there's that.