***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,166
5,317
113
eastside oahu
Happy New Year.

Surfed the NS regular yesterday and this morning. Both days conditions were really good. SSE winds and head high plus. Today a hair smaller but more glassy. Rode the 4X yesterday and the HIC Striker today.

Been having drama popping up. Tweaked my shoulder wrestling with my boar underwater on a bigger day, when I should’ve just let go after I was getting rag dolled. Aggravated it at work catching an extension ladder getting blown off the house. It’s just sore enough that I pop up uneven and a microsecond later than normal. And the random falls was getting in my head.

My friend paddled out after a rain squall and the weird wind sent everyone in. It cleaned up and there were just 3 of us out. Got a couple of fun ones and I was telling him about my shoulder. He said when I get to my feet everything else looks alright. It was a good conversation we talked about overeating sweets and the self loathing that comes with it. And how not surfing up to your usual standards gets in your head and that self doubt and self loathing makes the surfing worse. Finally I just go f*ck this Bethany pops up with only one arm. He starts laughing and that got it out of my head. Had a fun rest of the session with him.