This run of surf has been great. Just interfering with work and family life! It’s been non stop for weeks
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
It's been quite large up here lately and the one small-wave alternative has been complete trash so been itching to get in the water. Today wasn't much different. Solid overhead breaking way out, no one else out at all. Saw what looked like a gap to get through somewhat unscathed with a nice left breaking just to the south. Shouldn't have been much issue to paddle over to that left. WRONG. Completely underestimated the northbound current, which took me right out into the impact zone of the very consistent right to the north. 40 minutes of non-stop duckdiving but I did eventually make it out the back. Cold water? Ha! Was sweating my ass off by the time I got out there.
I really hate myself because I needed a breather after all that and had to pass up a very nice right but it was the first wave in a very long set (which I would absolutely be taking on the head) and figured there would be plenty more. There kind of were but they were all over the place with very spread out and random takeoff zones. Current was also taking me towards an area I did not want to be, which was just a mess of rip wash with waves breaking all over. I picked two very poor waves out of that wash and called it. Just too much windchop from afternoon/evening, leaving it a bit disorganized and with a lot of water always moving. Current left me with a solid half-mile walk back to my car.
Categorize that sesh as cardio day.
I really hate myself because I needed a breather after all that and had to pass up a very nice right but it was the first wave in a very long set (which I would absolutely be taking on the head) and figured there would be plenty more. There kind of were but they were all over the place with very spread out and random takeoff zones. Current was also taking me towards an area I did not want to be, which was just a mess of rip wash with waves breaking all over. I picked two very poor waves out of that wash and called it. Just too much windchop from afternoon/evening, leaving it a bit disorganized and with a lot of water always moving. Current left me with a solid half-mile walk back to my car.
Categorize that sesh as cardio day.
i may ot know how to surf punchy beachbreak waves...but be damned if softer waves don't leave me frustrated and cluless.
yesterday on the banjo w/ hobie keels. forgot how fun this setup is. lotta speed and easy carving.
back on the 6’2 blackbird today. bigger ones were mostly one hit before the closeout but the in betweeners were offering lots of face to carve. got cleaned up on a few
back on the 6’2 blackbird today. bigger ones were mostly one hit before the closeout but the in betweeners were offering lots of face to carve. got cleaned up on a few
Bad backwash this am, got a couple two pump and dumps. Since COVID my local is the hotbed of the Stormkooker set and groms that think they've graduated from the north side of the jetty (which 80% of the time, is half the size) to the south side, but they can't really duckdive yet and scream bloody murder at anything over chest high. The White Claw binging moms are completely oblivious to their kid's tombstoning boards and elementary school aged kids' underwater panic.
I've had three close calls from other people's boards almost hitting me in the face the last three surfs. I'm usually not the guy barking, but I really want to avoid the ER or local urgent care right now, so I've been getting more vocal in my frustration. I'm not sure if two "hey!'s" now means to keep paddling and go over the falls on your stomach in front of me, but I am starting to lose my shizzy.
Drove from the South Bay to Malibu to attend one of these drive by birthdays for my buddy's two year old. Of course his daughter looked miserable being propped up in the sun waving her hand confused to mostly mask wearing drivers. Drive by gift drop-off, so bizarre. I didn't bring a board as I hoped we'd be back in time for me to get wet again.
My wife, daughter and walked over to third point to eat some sandwiches we'd picked up. Some fun lefts coming off of second point, nobody could surf them worth a sh*t. Wished I brought my board and wettie. Incubus' lead singer Brandon Boyd walked by with an older Weirdo Ripper under his arm. Didn't see him surf, but I hear he's competent. Another guy walking by had one of the new Album asyms, supposedly shaped for Kelly Slater which he told me at least three times.
Terrible traffic getting home, but it was glassy so I was getting wet no matter what. Charged out front with 15 minutes left of sunlight and about 25 of twilight. Pretty walled, but managed to get a couple pumps in on three rights before little closeout barrels. A random left let me cover the most ground. Sat for at least 10-15 minutes with nothing coming in and my glasses-wearing eyes were starting to strain. A shoulder high right came through in the nick of time. I got two quick pumps in and grabbed my rail. I was surprised I made the first section and saw quick doggy door exit, but got greedy trying for the next section that didn't let me out. Surfacing, I was actually more stocked than I should have been for not having made it out. I think a guy who had a good view of the attempt giving me a solid "F-Yeah!" helped.
I've had three close calls from other people's boards almost hitting me in the face the last three surfs. I'm usually not the guy barking, but I really want to avoid the ER or local urgent care right now, so I've been getting more vocal in my frustration. I'm not sure if two "hey!'s" now means to keep paddling and go over the falls on your stomach in front of me, but I am starting to lose my shizzy.
Drove from the South Bay to Malibu to attend one of these drive by birthdays for my buddy's two year old. Of course his daughter looked miserable being propped up in the sun waving her hand confused to mostly mask wearing drivers. Drive by gift drop-off, so bizarre. I didn't bring a board as I hoped we'd be back in time for me to get wet again.
My wife, daughter and walked over to third point to eat some sandwiches we'd picked up. Some fun lefts coming off of second point, nobody could surf them worth a sh*t. Wished I brought my board and wettie. Incubus' lead singer Brandon Boyd walked by with an older Weirdo Ripper under his arm. Didn't see him surf, but I hear he's competent. Another guy walking by had one of the new Album asyms, supposedly shaped for Kelly Slater which he told me at least three times.
Terrible traffic getting home, but it was glassy so I was getting wet no matter what. Charged out front with 15 minutes left of sunlight and about 25 of twilight. Pretty walled, but managed to get a couple pumps in on three rights before little closeout barrels. A random left let me cover the most ground. Sat for at least 10-15 minutes with nothing coming in and my glasses-wearing eyes were starting to strain. A shoulder high right came through in the nick of time. I got two quick pumps in and grabbed my rail. I was surprised I made the first section and saw quick doggy door exit, but got greedy trying for the next section that didn't let me out. Surfacing, I was actually more stocked than I should have been for not having made it out. I think a guy who had a good view of the attempt giving me a solid "F-Yeah!" helped.
The last two days have been insane. Running walls and occasionally-square barrels with a mostly local crew. I think I've gotten more tube time in January 2021 than in most years.
There are several small wave alternatives up there and I saw a picture of one of them absolutely firing yesterday. Figure it out.
dang dude I was worried for you, didn't you move further from the coast but don't you surf more now? stock!
I say fvck it and trunk it in front of those mo fo's to tell them whos boss
Fun fun fun this morning. mitsven bonzer voyage but should have ridden a proper shortboard.
Oh and new swell started to show and it's angry.
Oh and new swell started to show and it's angry.
I once saw a guy paddling out to an outer sandbar wave up there on a Wavestorm in trunks. Mid-winter. He appeared to be very out of shape. I watched for a few minutes to see if he was going to die or was simply drunk, then lost sight of him on the paddle. Fifteen or twenty minutes later I saw him absolutely tear apart a double overhead, grinding wall, then smoothly paddle back in. You never know sometimes.
Yeah, not surprised. The waves sure could have used a bit more filtering than what was on par for yesterday. Would have been a far better session if I hadn't got dragged by current into no-mans land. Already knew the one smaller-wave spot in the immediate area was trash and crowded (BBQed oysters on the beach with family there Saturday PM) and didn't have time to drive around so took what was on offer, surf version of run what you brung I guess.
sbd, sounds like the same angry swell from up here yesterday. Howling winds today so no go. Have surfed quite a bit up here but also a few days where I've had to return empty-handed. A lot more challenging and less waves caught per sesh but overall, yeah, let's just say lack of swell isn't the issue - it looks like next weekend won't be at least 10'@16 for once. That first session I had up here when I first moved up this fall was definitely the t!ts though - ocean has been a lot meaner lately.
And no, I will not be trunking it.
Sounds like you're enjoying the juice Kento. Hope the rest of the area is treating you and the fam well 
Thanks! Although I'd say the juice has been enjoying me quite mutually - a new soul to thrash.Sounds like you're enjoying the juice Kento. Hope the rest of the area is treating you and the fam well
Loving it up here so far. Infinite amount to explore. Not to mention some quality Mexican food up here and that always makes everything good.
So many cool spots. Hard to believe I've only been up here 2 months as have done a lot in that time! Great weather has helped.
Super fickle lined up point-style break, HH+ on the sets, moderate weekend crowd and water temp 47. Stock.
Got semi skunked this morning. Went to my usual reef hoping there would be enough swell to overcome the just a bit too high tide, not the case. Or at least not while I was out there. I got 5 waves in an hour with no competition but only a couple were any good, even then quite soft. Figured I'd swing by the beach to see if it was workable between the highish tide and lower than expected swell. Apparently during the 10 minute drive the swell showed up. Saw sets closing the whole place out. Hoping I can maybe squeeze a more rewarding session in tonight.
scored pretty good late morning. decent lulls but plenty of waves on the sets with workable corners before an oncoming close out of death. been surfing the same spot through the pulses and had the lineup dialed. chip shot entries into HH+ bowls.
not much of a crowd, the clean up sets we’re doing their thing. spotted a couple broken boards both before I went out and on my way in.
quite the run of swell we’ve had. stocked.
not much of a crowd, the clean up sets we’re doing their thing. spotted a couple broken boards both before I went out and on my way in.
quite the run of swell we’ve had. stocked.
I dont know what kind of stars aligned yesterday afternoon but ho lee phuck it all came together. Packed beach. Practically empty lineup. Barrels, turns, fucking blew my mind what was going on. I went down to the beach with my groveler not expecting much but came out on cloud 9. Between that session and the last week I dont even care if I surf this week. Wait. No. I take that back. OUTTA MY WAY KOOKS! 