Incompetence and overall crowd density is why I'm body surfing more and more and surfing and kneeboarding less and less. Yesterday was just too crowded. I'm grabbing my flippers today for some mental escape.
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I'm think of going back to PU/PU for a custom daily driver. It's tough to order a PU boar that costs roughly double what it did in the Clark foam days. PU glass doesn't hold up as well. I was considering S-glass for the top but it doesn't seem like that is much better.been awhile since I'd been on the fuse. Felt wide lol.
Long waits and lots of closeouts (thanks la nina) but I got a couple. One air attempt went bad. Notice that eps doesn't stay with you like poly.
oh wells
Sounds like you were definitely hung over.Also surfed saturday at my local and the crowd was out of control. I think I had a sneaky hangover cuz I was really annoyed of the whole thing. Got two sets and got out of there. I did see one of the best waves I've seen in a few years at that particular wave come through (and land on my head). No one went, no more waves like it afterward. A mirage perhaps?
Today same as above, but waves were a little smaller.Yesterday and today, 9-11am, Porto, 2-3ft, 8' Brom Twin. Pretty fun waves, again crowded but mostly kooks on Wavestorms and hardboards so plenty of waves. Beautiful day, little wind, shifting rip. Got a bunch, lost count, had a really killer little left and got to really maneuver and generate good speed. Looking fwd to surfing tomorrow, maybe closer to Hermosa, I dunno.