Incompetence and overall crowd density is why I'm body surfing more and more and surfing and kneeboarding less and less. Yesterday was just too crowded. I'm grabbing my flippers today for some mental escape.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
SAt on the cast of "Revenge of the Nerds" yesterday, but they didn't end up winning like in the movie. Movies are different than real life. It's funny to watch them start out next to all the aggro groms in the best spot and watch them get pushed further and further down the beach to a spot matched to their skill level. They definitely travel in packs (safety in numbers). They all seem to ride boards with some type of a plug in them. Maybe this is the GoPro mount? They seem to know they're kooks.
I got about a dozen on my under-volumed boar. My daily driver is being repaired. I don't think my new custom groveler is ever coming.
I got about a dozen on my under-volumed boar. My daily driver is being repaired. I don't think my new custom groveler is ever coming.
Kinda fun Dawn Patrol at retodds secret sandbar 1
Knee to thigh high and zippy down the line runners , 2 rights to blindly start off then all lefts so I could actually see lololol
Speed runs and top turns made up 99 percent of the day but did manage 1 floater and 1 wrap around gutty
Happy happy Joy Joy
Knee to thigh high and zippy down the line runners , 2 rights to blindly start off then all lefts so I could actually see lololol
Speed runs and top turns made up 99 percent of the day but did manage 1 floater and 1 wrap around gutty
Happy happy Joy Joy
been awhile since I'd been on the fuse. Felt wide lol.
Long waits and lots of closeouts (thanks la nina) but I got a couple. One air attempt went bad. Notice that eps doesn't stay with you like poly.
oh wells
Long waits and lots of closeouts (thanks la nina) but I got a couple. One air attempt went bad. Notice that eps doesn't stay with you like poly.
oh wells
I'm think of going back to PU/PU for a custom daily driver. It's tough to order a PU boar that costs roughly double what it did in the Clark foam days. PU glass doesn't hold up as well. I was considering S-glass for the top but it doesn't seem like that is much better.
Met up with Yewstreet on Saturday.
Paddled out at the same spot.
He appears to make it past the inside bar without much trouble; my last view of him was him getting around the inside dumper that held me back for another 20 minutes.
That 20 minutes took me a block and half drift south.
A few rides of no note finally gave way to a long left, and then with more paddling, I was more or less right out in front of where we had paddled out.
But no Yewstreet.
There was another clump of people to the north, and I thought he was in that mix. Considered making my way there, but alas.
Ran into Friend #1...he said he got out easy enough.
We exchanged a few rides, he complained the waves were acting weird, said, "One more," gets a bomb, paddles right back out and says, "Can't go in on the wave of the day."
About 30-45 minutes later, he says, "I'm freezing, last one." And he gets a ho-hum take off, and then it me for a while, and eventually I go in.
Yewstreet's car is gone, and then Friend #1 comes out of the house to talk.
He says that he rode his last wave to inside, the wave reformed and throws. He then ended up pulling in, gets clipped, bounced off the bottom, get the wind knocked out of him, surfaces unable to breathe properly, and gets a face full of sand and foam, and then bounced again.
My last wave started off ho-hum like his, but the wave backed off so I never had to decide to charge the inside reform. I did try to catch one and got pitched as I was getting to my feet...not that bad of a tumble since most of the energy went between me and the shore.
Next day was smaller, but the paddle out the same. Yesterday seemed to have two distinct swells, Sunday was sort of two less distinct swells.
Paddled out with Friend #1. I ended up getting out at the same spot as the day before. Friend #1 got denied and later says, "This is what I get for saying I got out easy the day before....45 minutes was enough.
Paddled out at the same spot.
He appears to make it past the inside bar without much trouble; my last view of him was him getting around the inside dumper that held me back for another 20 minutes.
That 20 minutes took me a block and half drift south.
A few rides of no note finally gave way to a long left, and then with more paddling, I was more or less right out in front of where we had paddled out.
But no Yewstreet.
There was another clump of people to the north, and I thought he was in that mix. Considered making my way there, but alas.
Ran into Friend #1...he said he got out easy enough.
We exchanged a few rides, he complained the waves were acting weird, said, "One more," gets a bomb, paddles right back out and says, "Can't go in on the wave of the day."
About 30-45 minutes later, he says, "I'm freezing, last one." And he gets a ho-hum take off, and then it me for a while, and eventually I go in.
Yewstreet's car is gone, and then Friend #1 comes out of the house to talk.
He says that he rode his last wave to inside, the wave reformed and throws. He then ended up pulling in, gets clipped, bounced off the bottom, get the wind knocked out of him, surfaces unable to breathe properly, and gets a face full of sand and foam, and then bounced again.
My last wave started off ho-hum like his, but the wave backed off so I never had to decide to charge the inside reform. I did try to catch one and got pitched as I was getting to my feet...not that bad of a tumble since most of the energy went between me and the shore.
Next day was smaller, but the paddle out the same. Yesterday seemed to have two distinct swells, Sunday was sort of two less distinct swells.
Paddled out with Friend #1. I ended up getting out at the same spot as the day before. Friend #1 got denied and later says, "This is what I get for saying I got out easy the day before....45 minutes was enough.
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This morning while checking the surf at reef #3, saw a noob couple paddling out. Dude was on the rainbow 'Storm, girl was on a 6' blue egg... wearing a mask and snorkel. WFH. WTF??
Noon surf at reef #2 on rising tide. It was even softer than it looked. Waist high peaks, pretty much just a drop and one shoulder section to carve up before fading out. Nothing connecting to inside. Chunky Gremlin with large Reactors was a good choice and felt nice n crisp on fs and bs wraps. Only a couple guys out but one kept paddling inside me and going right. After the fourth time, I was annoyed and ready to say something but he went in. Nobody seems to want to split peaks out there anymore. I don’t get it. Not that big a deal when the waves are so average. I stayed out another 45 and got a bunch of short rights and lefts. Nice sunny day and clean conditions. One dude on a LB paddled out in trunks. Cool bro.
Noon surf at reef #2 on rising tide. It was even softer than it looked. Waist high peaks, pretty much just a drop and one shoulder section to carve up before fading out. Nothing connecting to inside. Chunky Gremlin with large Reactors was a good choice and felt nice n crisp on fs and bs wraps. Only a couple guys out but one kept paddling inside me and going right. After the fourth time, I was annoyed and ready to say something but he went in. Nobody seems to want to split peaks out there anymore. I don’t get it. Not that big a deal when the waves are so average. I stayed out another 45 and got a bunch of short rights and lefts. Nice sunny day and clean conditions. One dude on a LB paddled out in trunks. Cool bro.
I dawn patroled the DMV and got so pitted in paperwork. Hang loose WFH broz!
Yesterday and today, 9-11am, Porto, 2-3ft, 8' Brom Twin. Pretty fun waves, again crowded but mostly kooks on Wavestorms and hardboards so plenty of waves. Beautiful day, little wind, shifting rip. Got a bunch, lost count, had a really killer little left and got to really maneuver and generate good speed. Looking fwd to surfing tomorrow, maybe closer to Hermosa, I dunno.
Also surfed saturday at my local and the crowd was out of control. I think I had a sneaky hangover cuz I was really annoyed of the whole thing. Got two sets and got out of there. I did see one of the best waves I've seen in a few years at that particular wave come through (and land on my head). No one went, no more waves like it afterward. A mirage perhaps?
cold low fog. alternating pisswind and glass. a few random big fish reports. couldnt motivate despite a semi fun looking little swell when you could semi see it. must have gotten a bunch lately since imma def not frothed. easy shine it
Day 3 after a 2 week or so break from a ruptured eardrum and infection. This Winter has been brutal on my body: back, knee, and my good ear. Couldn't hear anything for 2 days. Lucky I heal-up quickly.
Sat- biggish and crowded. Waited a little later in the day but still crowded. The level of aggression in the water really sucks these days. Paddle was long but no drama. Shifty inside outside again. Hard to force myself to sit outside to wait, so I stayed inside for some big burgers. Meh went in after an hr.
Sunday- changed my time to go out again and less crowd. Kinda fun rode the RT Twin punchy inside walls. Fun dropping in while the wave sucks-out hard when it hits the bar. Few turns until it closed out. Even with only a handful out one guy was mouthing off to some guy who shoulder hopped him. He keeps taking off too deep and never makes the wave, maybe 5 times. Same guy back paddles me to getting pitched. Decide to say something since he seems to like to talk, but he disappeared before I had the chance.
Monday- Time change is working better no crowd again. The sand is doing weird things waves are stacking and many drops have steps in them Today the steps were elongated. The wave would crest and hit the first step and eventually hit the next and then completely suck out. Did get the best barrel in recent memory. No steps but nice clean drop to suckout, pull up into it and it drained for a long time. Clean open barrel, easy peasy. So pleased with myself I tried a JJ whack on the end section and kooked it nicely. Still feeling pleased with myself I go for a backside pigdog into a huge wedgie suckout that opened like a giant clam. I tried to punch through it but got hung-up and dragged over the falls with the board on my side. Luckily I slipped off the board before we both hit the bottom. Been fun the last few days.
Sat- biggish and crowded. Waited a little later in the day but still crowded. The level of aggression in the water really sucks these days. Paddle was long but no drama. Shifty inside outside again. Hard to force myself to sit outside to wait, so I stayed inside for some big burgers. Meh went in after an hr.
Sunday- changed my time to go out again and less crowd. Kinda fun rode the RT Twin punchy inside walls. Fun dropping in while the wave sucks-out hard when it hits the bar. Few turns until it closed out. Even with only a handful out one guy was mouthing off to some guy who shoulder hopped him. He keeps taking off too deep and never makes the wave, maybe 5 times. Same guy back paddles me to getting pitched. Decide to say something since he seems to like to talk, but he disappeared before I had the chance.
Monday- Time change is working better no crowd again. The sand is doing weird things waves are stacking and many drops have steps in them Today the steps were elongated. The wave would crest and hit the first step and eventually hit the next and then completely suck out. Did get the best barrel in recent memory. No steps but nice clean drop to suckout, pull up into it and it drained for a long time. Clean open barrel, easy peasy. So pleased with myself I tried a JJ whack on the end section and kooked it nicely. Still feeling pleased with myself I go for a backside pigdog into a huge wedgie suckout that opened like a giant clam. I tried to punch through it but got hung-up and dragged over the falls with the board on my side. Luckily I slipped off the board before we both hit the bottom. Been fun the last few days.
Surfline had Sunset at 5'-7' this afternoon which seemed to translate to a mix of waves anywhere from shoulder to overhead at the point, to DOH at the west bowl. I find conditions like this to be really disorienting with sets both rideable and too outside sweeping through different peaks seemingly at random. Pros and hot locals were all on the point, or patrolling the lineup like sharks. A few folks sat inside at the bowl, which seemed unproductive and vulnerable. I mostly muddled around inside at the point, or off to the side not so patiently waiting. Despite the conditions it was uncommonly crowded for a weekday afternoon, I didn't check anything else so maybe other waves looked dire.
Rode a 6'8" x 19"1/2 x 2"3/4 single-fin shaped by Christenson.
Initial attempts at catching something went poorly. Took a trip over the falls on my first attempt, made a poor choice and had to pull back on my second. Spent some time getting back-paddled and wallowing before finally scratching into something. I had to dig hard, and even then the drop felt very late. The wave swung a little wider than the point, but didn't quite have enough oomph to be a proper west peak, letting me ride all the way through on what basically felt like a head high wave. Pulled out and saw that the wave I'd caught was a forerunner for another outside set. Happy that I'd made it I half-heartedly attempted to paddle back out through all the whitewater before deciding that a beer and a nap sounded like more fun.
Total time in the water: 45mins
Rode a 6'8" x 19"1/2 x 2"3/4 single-fin shaped by Christenson.
Initial attempts at catching something went poorly. Took a trip over the falls on my first attempt, made a poor choice and had to pull back on my second. Spent some time getting back-paddled and wallowing before finally scratching into something. I had to dig hard, and even then the drop felt very late. The wave swung a little wider than the point, but didn't quite have enough oomph to be a proper west peak, letting me ride all the way through on what basically felt like a head high wave. Pulled out and saw that the wave I'd caught was a forerunner for another outside set. Happy that I'd made it I half-heartedly attempted to paddle back out through all the whitewater before deciding that a beer and a nap sounded like more fun.
Total time in the water: 45mins
Today same as above, but waves were a little smaller.
From Ghost to Gremlin in less than a week.
Had a fun little midday session at local reef #3. A couple guys went in as I paddled out, so it was just a ‘Stormer girl, a shaggy midlength bro, and me. Waist-high lefts with a soft takeoff and then standing up over the next 3 sections. Had a blast racing the walls and trying to pack in as many backside hits as I could (3-5) on the fishy 5’9 Gremiln with L Reactor quads. Really like this as a small wave bort. Got the best set wave that came through too, and surfed it well enough that the other dude said it was a good one. After 45 min, a couple resin-tinted midlength jerks tried to hog the lineup and I was over it. [Does the “ironic” mustache come with the midlength?!?] Must’ve caught 15-18 waves in just under an hour. Good time, and just what I needed with work being crazy right now.
Had a fun little midday session at local reef #3. A couple guys went in as I paddled out, so it was just a ‘Stormer girl, a shaggy midlength bro, and me. Waist-high lefts with a soft takeoff and then standing up over the next 3 sections. Had a blast racing the walls and trying to pack in as many backside hits as I could (3-5) on the fishy 5’9 Gremiln with L Reactor quads. Really like this as a small wave bort. Got the best set wave that came through too, and surfed it well enough that the other dude said it was a good one. After 45 min, a couple resin-tinted midlength jerks tried to hog the lineup and I was over it. [Does the “ironic” mustache come with the midlength?!?] Must’ve caught 15-18 waves in just under an hour. Good time, and just what I needed with work being crazy right now.
yesterday morning was rough. freezing cold as I suited up alongside the highway. 6-3 IF15 w/ Dane L's. tried wearing some new lobster mitts and they were so tight it took me forever to get them on and then it felt like they were cutting off circulation to my fingers. my buddy was surfing the left and I should have joined him but no one was on the right so I gave it a go. despite clean winds it was super funky with leftover windswell lumps crisscrossing most of the overhead sets that rolled through. every wave I took off on either bent away and sectioned or mushed out. finally a good one came to me. i got a clean entry, a couple pumps, entered the bowly turn section with speed....tail slid out and I fell. that was about it. never really got another chance at a good wave. didn't stay out long. the mitts were driving me crazy.
evening session went much better. joined my friend on the left. same board. kind of a classic setup at this spot. outside roll ins that would run for a bit, slow down and then gather on the inside bar and then break hard on the shallow pancake of sand. at first the tide was a little low for the inside section to be makeable but as the tide filled in a few of them kept their shoulder all the way to the channel. the rip was significant, pulling out and deep. i got into a pretty good rhythm at first, just chilling in the channel and letting it pull me back out and trying to get a wave before I got sucked too deep. pulled into what I thought was kind of a cheeky tube but it doubled up hard and slammed me good. must not have gotten a good breath because i felt like i wanted air right away but it was a long hold down. lungs were burning by the time i surfaced and i was wiped out after the many duckdives needed to make it back to the channel. took it easy for a while until i got my energy back and eventually found a good rhythm again. the higher tide slowed things up a bit but when the sets came they were starting to connect all the way through. got my best wave, kind of a mid sized one from deep that had a beautiful clean face and a good pace. i think i got 3 whole turns which for here is just about unheard of.
evening session went much better. joined my friend on the left. same board. kind of a classic setup at this spot. outside roll ins that would run for a bit, slow down and then gather on the inside bar and then break hard on the shallow pancake of sand. at first the tide was a little low for the inside section to be makeable but as the tide filled in a few of them kept their shoulder all the way to the channel. the rip was significant, pulling out and deep. i got into a pretty good rhythm at first, just chilling in the channel and letting it pull me back out and trying to get a wave before I got sucked too deep. pulled into what I thought was kind of a cheeky tube but it doubled up hard and slammed me good. must not have gotten a good breath because i felt like i wanted air right away but it was a long hold down. lungs were burning by the time i surfaced and i was wiped out after the many duckdives needed to make it back to the channel. took it easy for a while until i got my energy back and eventually found a good rhythm again. the higher tide slowed things up a bit but when the sets came they were starting to connect all the way through. got my best wave, kind of a mid sized one from deep that had a beautiful clean face and a good pace. i think i got 3 whole turns which for here is just about unheard of.
Yesterday morning - had a great time at a punchy beachbreak. Swell had dropped off and was mixing witih some windswell, so it was a little jumbled. But there were some nice double-ups hitting the bars and the conditions were great. Nailed an airdrop on a closeout, and the next wave scored an inside barrel on a wave nobody else even glanced at. Surfed my 5'11'' as a quad which felt great. Crowd was minimal, and it was pretty much myself and one other guy trading waves on one particular bar.
started off slow but my buddy called me over to his side of the rip. he went in and I got three rights and two lefts that were super fun. Little wedgy rippers on the fuse. Board was absolutely perfect for the waves.