*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***


Michael Peterson status
Jan 22, 2006
First day back in the water since Black Friday.
So fun. Chest to shoulder high peaks and just the usual suspects. Board felt better under my feet than it has in so long. Much needed session.


Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
The Bar
Didn't get my birthday session in yesterday (too windy) but took advantage this morning. Later start than normal, in the water around 9ish. No regrets on lagging as it was cold last night, still in low 30s well after sunrise. Head high to overhead peaks on outside sandbar, some of which morphed into something ridable in shorebreak. Rips all over and shifty but had it all to myself. Picked off a fair amount of the sets on outside bar, mostly just fun for big bottom turns and fading cutbacks but a couple held up enough for the barest of head-dip barrels (even if it's just an ear, it still counts).

Beautiful sunny day out right now.


OTF status
Jul 3, 2014
Had a bunk session yesterday afternoon chasing corners and ducking close-outs, but did see a sad bro carrying a snapped in half DaveStorm in the parking lot when I was suiting up. That was fun.
I like when they leave there broken wavestorm in the parking lot for someone else to clean up


Nep status
Dec 27, 2019
christmas eve midday. local multigenerational session reminded me why i love it here.

blue sky cold water hard offshore low tide bars with a little ground swell running.

moms dads sons and daughters brothers and sisters aunts uncles grandparents.. everybody sharing, getting barrels smiles stoke meter pegged all around.

our own little cold haole makaha for a day


Miki Dora status
Feb 25, 2020

Looks like the techbros have another 9 months to get their mandatory vaccination/sterilization and report to their stations to resume gargling hindoo ballz.

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Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2017
San Diego, CA
Snuck out while the kids were napping for low tide at reef #2. chest-high, sideshore HI-style "grovel", so the "husky" Gremlin was the call. Waves were warbly but had a playful skatepark feel to them. Long racetrack rights that lined up through to the inside, with frontside snaps and wraparounds, sections to go around, exposed reef to dodge. Long waits so I only got 3 waves in an hour but they were all fun and I felt like I surfed them well.


Gerry Lopez status
Apr 13, 2016
Surfed with my brother in law for the first time. Not sure why it took so long for us to surf together but ended up having a really fun session. Surfed a wave with a long walk I’d never been to before, it had super fun against the grain lefts that offered the occasional barrel and really fun long rights. Surprisingly power for only being 2-3’ occasional 4’. Saw him get a sick right barrel, I got a few proper backhand snaps in and got A decent little left barrel but got clipped and lost it at the last second. Pretty epic first surf together.


Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
The Bar
Well, that was entertaining and humbling. Checked primary beachbreak, looked at it for a while. No one out but quite a bit over DOH. Sorta a temporary channel but it got washed through a lot and it looked quite consistent. Was tempted but that paddle out was no guarantee. Thought maybe I'd drive around, see if I could find a reef working. Found one beachbreak/reefbreak combo. Relatively easy paddle out and looked like some decent peaks/walls that were somewhat manageable. Nasty little beach surge to deal with coming in too. The current I saw running along the rocks to get outside apparently had a blind entrance point - guessed well, but oh man it was so much bigger than it looked. 15' face sets and just a ton of slack water with waves lifting off the bottom hard and chucking with a lot of power with quickly dropping tide. Suffice to say I picked at a few but had to paddle in before I got too badly mauled as it was becoming quite swirly. Alas no waves today but at least I got the point driven home that a 6'7" will not work in waves like that. :roflmao:

On the bright side, I have an idea conditions will make it good. But damn that was very deceptive from the bluff.
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Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2018
Probably dropping in on you, California
NOC beachie around 11:30 today - chest to head highish with the occasional larger set. This string of sandbars was cooking, and the crossed up swell was popping up peaks everywhere for about an hour and a half before the tide drained out. Some of tthe rights were running like a point break. Me, my homie, and one other rando guy just trading off wave after wave. Turns, barrels, everything on offer. Had one one really stretch out right as I pulled in and I kind of wrote myself off, but blindly pumped twice and came flying out of the deepest barrel ive had in along time, let alone on this stretch of sand. Today was my real Xmas.