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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,379
2,186
113
Ponto
Too many great comments to reply to.
I love work from home, haven't been able to surge so many random days in long time.
Dawn patrol is a nightmare, I pretty much don't even bother checking when I can go out at 11:00 instead.
Waves have been good lately.

Ok, today, paddled out to PPP at peak high tide around 11:00. Tide was fat, I can feel Teeroi''s pain. One other guy out, we caught a few, than sat, then caught a few. Waves seemed to be getting better as tide started dropping, duh, who would've thought that? Caught one great one with semi-tube section (that's where you wished you were deeper), to heavy rinse section (that's where you're tubed, but you're eyes are closed and lots of water is hitting you all over), to stall barrel. PPP has been good to me lately! Eventually, crowd quadrupled, back to work....
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,228
23,353
113
PNW
Morning sesh at the kelpy reef. With my Loot still laying there on the healing bench, not having fixed itself, I opted to take the JS Psycho Nitro out. NVS AM2 sides, F4 center. Waves were half the size of yesterday but still doing it. Fark me I forgot how fun this board is. A bit more curve in the outline so it rides looser than the Loot and probably has a little better low end. Maybe less rocker or just deeper concaves. Doesn't paddle quite as well. Mostly just locals shredding some long rights. My buddy from the next town up came down and brought out his new fish. He was stocked, said in one session it made the cut for his winter baja quiver.

Swell dropped a lot but I think this evening will have waves as well. Hopefully I can rally the ol' body for another go.
 
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enframed

enframed

Tom Curren status
Apr 11, 2006
11,762
6,544
113
Del Boca Vista, Phase III
Same spot, man am I a creature of habit. Tad more crowded with four people on the peak I sat on. Less size than yesterday but shape was better, was prob 1-3 w/ occasional 4 ft. Album twin. 3 waves and called it, wind was about to pick up and having surfed 5 days in the pst week my arms are kinda toast after not surfing much for nearly a year. This Album twin asymm might become my go-to. Been digging it a lot.
 
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tedshred5

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,812
6,604
113
enframed said:
Same spot, man am I a creature of habit. Tad more crowded with four people on the peak I sat on. Less size than yesterday but shape was better, was prob 1-3 w/ occasional 4 ft. Album twin. 3 waves and called it, wind was about to pick up and having surfed 5 days in the pst week my arms are kinda toast after not surfing much for nearly a year. This Album twin asymm might become my go-to. Been digging it a lot.
Click to expand...
Townsend?
 
sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,997
11,519
113
San Diego
Ok, I complained too hard. Afternoon sesh brought redemption for the swell. Must have timed the lulls because I caught 10waves right away and then it shut down hard.

got one last one to come in, felt like I got sun stroke waiting for it. Started with 4 people out. Went in past a group of 5 leashing up on top of the 25 peeps already in the lineup. class musta ended.

banjo fish was perfect for everything on offer.
 
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Iceman

Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,265
1,076
113
NorCenCal
Surfed a juicy beachbreak on the 5'11'' this time set up as a quad. With the longer period, the waves definitely had some wall on them, but there was an occasional corner, and only a few people out. Picked off some sweet lefts in the 8-10' range. Super glassy, basically surfing by myself as the other few people were spread out. Some bigger cleanup sets that had me scrambling, and a huger one that cleaned everybody up. The other 3 guys ended up going to the beach and I was all alone for the final half hour. Good start to the vacation!
 
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sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,997
11,519
113
San Diego
pretty bad this morning. lots of the locals thought people would laggard out due to the fog but the hype was already in the air.

counted 70 people across my little stretch. mind you the takeoff spot is as small as it gets.

glad I got wet to start the day, woulda been annoyed if I hadnt surged all week.
 
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Iceman

Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,265
1,076
113
NorCenCal
Drove way north of town this morning to get away from the crowd. Found some mediocre beachbreak with not much of anybody around and got a few. More waves than if I slept in!

Riding the same 5'11'' as a quad again. Definitely better as a thruster unless the waves are big and running fast. My shaper was letting me try the board out to see if I wanted something shaped based on how I like it, and since I've been having such a fun time on it, he offered it to me for $240.....with the fins! It does have a delam on the deck near the tail but whatever.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,052
17,545
113
San Diego, CA
Fri early afternoon low tide sesh in the blazing sun was a bit smaller & softer than the previous days. Couldn't deal with the crowds / kooks at the main reefs, so went to a more mellow spot just further south. After the frustration of the past couple sessions, I decided "if you can't beat 'em... join 'em": took out the Mitsven 8' mini glider for the waist-high soft peelers. Was even wearing a front-zip vest for the full hipster d-bag look. it was so sunny, I really could've used a bucket hat with chin strap. maybe reef booties too. LOL. Self-loathing meter was high.
Took the first wave of a chest-high set, tried to go right from behind the peak, made it around first section before it closed out, got stuck on the inside. What the hell do you do with an 8' board when you have to go under the next four waves of the set in 2' of water over shallow rock reef? No idea, but it wasn't pretty. Finally, made it back outside to the peak, and stuck to the left. Didn't see another set like that first one, but got a few nice long rides all the way to the beach: early entry, high line speed run, cutback, tentative cross-step towards front of board to connect to the inside. As much as I don't want to be one of those guys, the glider was the right call for the break, the soft conditions, and my mood (I would've been frustrated on anything else) and I continue to be impressed with this board's versatility. Fun was had. Sanity restored. But I'm sure I'll be back on a 5'9 for another round in the thunderdome next session. I miss those tiger shreds!
 
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Brsnstein

Brsnstein

OTF status
Jul 28, 2018
250
479
63
SoCal
Took the old gx out today for the first time in ages to break up my blindspot, giggle box, tkf routine of the last few months. Forgot what a fun board it is, but it reminded me why I dislike pads with arch, which seems to get in the way of my wide flat feet. Notwithstanding the arch pad, got a few god ones and the fog/tide combo managed to keep the crowd down some
 
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need 4 speed

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,725
3,638
113
SoCal
a few fun waist -chest softies w/ 20w, warm water, late start to left the fog lift was a good call
crowded AF at the beginning of the session we had it fairly empty at the end. Rode the wrong board but caught a couple and made a turn or two :shaka:

bohter's vid spot looks familiar :cool:
 
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C

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,429
977
113
Surfed a notoriously localized sandbar wedge today on the same stretch of beach as where I was born a few days shy of 38 years ago. Got some fun ones before a couple of the crankier locals got out there. Had a... very minor altercation with one after he dropped in on me and then yelled at me for being deeper than him.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,228
23,353
113
PNW
kelpy reef delivered again at the high tide. fresh swell. some lulls but not too bad. first hour or so was dreamy conditions. rode the JS PN. after many days of surfing in a row I felt tired but in tune with the board and the waves. flowing and surfing well for me. got a solid 2.5 hours before dropping tide and rising swell conspired to deteriorate things somewhat. i probably could have milked another half hour out of it but i was tired and satisfied. took the next good one in a rinsed off in the waterfall.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,851
23,805
113
Tower 13
finally some fun waves. pretty inconsistent but most waves were good. rode the fuse.

best wave was a right with a nice arc to a closeout bash. surfed it well and even got a compliment. felt good because I've felt like a kook slug lately.

crowd was record setting. i yelled at a suk that hogged a set wave off me. I don't yell.

nice to be in a comfy 2mil. won't be long....
 
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Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,833
12,508
113
in da hood next to paradise
Aruka said:
kelpy reef delivered again at the high tide. fresh swell. some lulls but not too bad. first hour or so was dreamy conditions. rode the JS PN. after many days of surfing in a row I felt tired but in tune with the board and the waves. flowing and surfing well for me. got a solid 2.5 hours before dropping tide and rising swell conspired to deteriorate things somewhat. i probably could have milked another half hour out of it but i was tired and satisfied. took the next good one in a rinsed off in the waterfall.
Click to expand...
ur sessions sound like my surf fantasies lol. who da fk rinses off in a waterfall except aruka!
 
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