Dragged this over from last years' journal:
Went out later in the day at a well-known South SD beach break yesterday. Took the afternoon off, and walked down, paddled out around 3p.
Watched a canyon set close out what I thought would be a chill spot away from the peaks to get outside, and proceeded to get spanked by a 6ft wall of whitewater.
Got a fun one, 8ft-ish, stretch 2x4 step up was a good call.
Got another one that closed out after making a bottom turn. Straightened out, stepped off, and got worked. Paddled in, jogged down the beach, paddled back out for about 20 minutes, got worked by another canyon set, then made it back outside.
Caught one last fun one.
Three waves, three bottom turns, one top turn, and still a successful session for me.
Stoked as ever, just wishing those conditions were more common here so I'm not recalibrating every time I paddle out into waves that size.
Finished my first hand shape today, btw. We'll see how it goes soon!