*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

[jkb]

I fvcked up this morning.

Should have gone to where the waves were good, but there were a bunch of people out.

Instead, I suffered solo at a spot that was quickly backing off with the increasing tide. :cussing:

 

[frontsidegrab]

Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...

 

[rts265]

Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...

what? lol

 

[jkb]

Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...

000's head just exploded

:applause:

 

[ghostshaper]

Been getting great surfs up at a beach somewhere in the Ventura/Santa Barabara area. (Not gonna say. its a secret). Found out about it by following some guy down the beach. Saw him catch some waves and then paddled out right next to him, as I always do. Paddled for every wave that came in. If dude was on a wave as I was paddling back out straight toward the peak, no problem, just paddle toward the shoulder ( i hate duck diving). If he's deeper on a wave, I double make sure he got into it by paddling in, popping up and wait for him to call me off. That's how i know for suuure he got the wave.

Took my gf to the very same spot to learn. Stocked!! I'll be back...

000's head just exploded

:applause:

post of the year!

 

[Oceanslide]

Small, inconsistent, and weak early. Got a couple ok waves on the RNF Retro before having to
freeze changing for work. Checked it this afternoon and it jumped to pretty unruly, closed-out conditions
in a hurry.

 

[jkb]

CODE RED IN NCSD BROS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is to say it barely hit head high this morning. Way bigger yesterday afternoon. I couldn't believe the size difference.

Brought the hpsb and the step-up with me and could have paddled out on the small wave board.

What a fvcking let down.

 

[bummer dude]

Got out yesterday at about one. Checked out a reef in north county looked big and closed out. Went to a more protected spot and found a few fun head high+ corners. Friend I went out with couldn't make the paddle out lol, so went in pretty quick and headed back to work. Happy to have found a window!

 

[Oceanslide]

Nothing great, but got a handful of overhead lefts and a right early, once the fog cleared and there
was any visibility. Time Machine was a good call, although I could've been on any number of boards.
As jkb said, the difference in size from yesterday evening and this morning was large, although it
was mostly out of control yesterday and much cleaner today.

 

[Ifallalot]

I had a blast today at a spot I rarely go to. It kinda sucks it only works when its large because its the easiest and shortest drive from my house.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Decided to change it up this year and only post occasionally (we'll see how long that lasts lol) like some here do.

New year has started off kind of slow. Out of town, too much swell, bad windows etc. but I've had a few here and there.

Had opportunity to surf with ifall but it wasn't even worth going out.

Had a fun sesh at a localized spot that was really fun. Tweaked my knee so I've been out of the water since Sunday but today was pretty fun. Much smaller than expected.

 

[SixtyGrit]

Dragged this over from last years' journal:

Went out later in the day at a well-known South SD beach break yesterday. Took the afternoon off, and walked down, paddled out around 3p.

Watched a canyon set close out what I thought would be a chill spot away from the peaks to get outside, and proceeded to get spanked by a 6ft wall of whitewater.

Got a fun one, 8ft-ish, stretch 2x4 step up was a good call.

Got another one that closed out after making a bottom turn. Straightened out, stepped off, and got worked. Paddled in, jogged down the beach, paddled back out for about 20 minutes, got worked by another canyon set, then made it back outside.

Caught one last fun one.

Three waves, three bottom turns, one top turn, and still a successful session for me.

Stoked as ever, just wishing those conditions were more common here so I'm not recalibrating every time I paddle out into waves that size.

Finished my first hand shape today, btw. We'll see how it goes soon!

 

[obslop]

good surf week for me. 1 day on the 10' Christenson and the rest on the dream catcher with new to me Rainbow Fin Company Speed Wing quads - super fun! completely rips the snot out of smaller, weaker waves and as demonstrated today in really damn fun local surf can lay down a nice, clean carve in OH surf.

 

[MathDebater]

wasn't going to surf today but it was too clean to pass up. Shoulder to head high and completely clean mid day with a light crowd. Had a blast on the trusty gx.

 

[jkb]

Just about as good as it gets Sunday morning.

Overhead with some juice behind it. Takeoffs were steep and I was able to get some really long, deep bottom turns in. Felt really good. The Untitled handled the conditions perfectly.

 

[Chee-to]

Saturday and Sunday were amazing here. Saturday I got the best wave I've had this winter, a 150 yard double overhead-ish rifling left with a square, sandsucking inside section. Sunday was A-framing and bowling like crazy and I spent all afternoon backdooring peaks with varying success. I think I've been barreled more in January 2019 than all of 2018 combined.

Tomorrow looks just as good.

 

[Aruka]

Amazing conditions the past couple days. Unfortunately our best bars are not what they were a month ago. Surfed a slopey, kelpy right hand reef. Probably the best I've ever gotten this wave. DOH+ sets and long rides but no barrels.

 

[bluengreen]

Scored a few great barrels last Sunday afternoon with only a handful of peeps out. The rest of SF slept on it, probably because conditions were sh!t all week and it was high tide. Random inside bar just happened to be firing. First wave went over the falls backside and knocked a FCS II fin out of my board with my hip. Ran back to my car, grabbed a spare set and got back out in time for some kegging lefts. Woke up Monday with severe rib pain. Hurt to breathe. No clue how this happened. Gradually felt better over the course of the week but def. not 100% Did some light stretching and core work without much pain, so thought I could surf today, six days later (and the one day this weak conditions and life let me surf). No wind, but OB is still a mess after the week's storms. Randomly end up at Sharp Park where it's glass and a few feet overhead. Two guys out. I leap over the shorebreak onto my board and feel a searing pain in my ribs. Get halfway through a bitch of a paddle out and turn back. Bummed.

 

[Oceanslide]

Uber rolly, yet mostly walled, overhead surf early with obslop. He managed to snag one good one
that stood up a bit more. I took out the new Talon but you really needed lots of
foam so I ran in and grabbed the 6’7” VS Shadow, which was a much better call
for the day. Ended up getting one really fun left and one pretty fun right to end it,
both well overhead but slopey, with a few swooping turns on each.

 

[obslop]

decent surf week. monday morning was lame, tuesday afternoon was fun OH corners, saturday morning i had one good wave, and today was high tide fun on the 10'er.

ran the rainbow speed wings in my 6'2" arakawa amplifire on Tuesday and they did not feel as good as on the dream catcher in smaller, cleaner surf; maybe it was the waves but i noticed that due to the pulled in tail on that board the wings on the tip of the fins were actually over the rail line.