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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
morning sesh was a bit of a bust. there were some good waves but it was pretty big with tons of current. could hardly hold position on my 6'10" let alone make progress up the sand bar. just myself and a guy I don't know too well. he paddled for a bomber set wave then tried to back out and ended up getting sucked over as the thing was going completely square. it was one of the worst beatings I've seen anyone take in a while. i watched for him to come up and he did after not too long but I could tell he was shook up kind of looking around like he didn't know where he was. he got on his board though and made it back to the channel so I figured he was okay and a nice wave came so I went for it. he took a small one in shortly after and I found out later that his board hit him in the head and he needed stitches. bummer. I surfed alone for another hour or so and saw some amazing waves. big open barrels breaking deep on the bar. I just couldn't seem to get over to them. as the tide filled in it got weird and backwashy so I called it.
came back in the evening and it was half the size with one quarter the amount of current. rode my shorter Ghost and it felt great. few buddies out this time and everyone got some good ones. the best waves were growers that started out like head high and then stretched out through the inside and gained a few feet as they hit the inside tube section. there were fun turn waves too that were a little slower. there is a storm moving in tomorrow or the next day so we all knew this might be our last session for a while and so we milked it until it was pretty dark.
came back in the evening and it was half the size with one quarter the amount of current. rode my shorter Ghost and it felt great. few buddies out this time and everyone got some good ones. the best waves were growers that started out like head high and then stretched out through the inside and gained a few feet as they hit the inside tube section. there were fun turn waves too that were a little slower. there is a storm moving in tomorrow or the next day so we all knew this might be our last session for a while and so we milked it until it was pretty dark.
1-2ft dribble, 20kt onshore, cold and rainy. But got a few little runners on the new Pyzel Astro, and it skated across flat spots with ease and speed. Surfing is fun even when it's not really 
empty micro shorebreak this morning. Much better than expected. Fuse is turning out to be an amazing small wave daily driver. no hiccups, surprises, anything. Just rips.
Fark. Haven’t surfed in two weeks. Been trying to finish a house in Nuuanu where it rains everyday.
Got a text from Jeannie Chesser that Bowls was good yesterday where you.
So I made a 5am Home Depot run and paddled out by 6. Waves were really nice head high, good direction but a little soft from the high tide. Was happy I wasn’t a total kook after missing a couple of weeks. Got some fun waves. Last one did a layback snap in front of Ronnie Boy, he hooted. Plus he’s so loud everyone heard. Peer pressure. Haha
Got a text from Jeannie Chesser that Bowls was good yesterday where you.
So I made a 5am Home Depot run and paddled out by 6. Waves were really nice head high, good direction but a little soft from the high tide. Was happy I wasn’t a total kook after missing a couple of weeks. Got some fun waves. Last one did a layback snap in front of Ronnie Boy, he hooted. Plus he’s so loud everyone heard. Peer pressure. Haha
spot a had crowd closeouts and smelly water. left after waveless 30 mins to spot b which has clean shreddable peaks. got a nice frontside carve and backside snap and couple hits n runs. fun. tide swmped out last 30 mins so called it a day. fling all time gravel boar ftw!
Dawned high tide Bowls. Soon as I got out 3 head high nugs rolled in. I looked at my friends that beat me out and told them to go. Then nothing. Fark.
After a kinda long wait I got a set but it was soft and it walled up and ran off. I hate that can’t get a good bottom turn on the soft pocket then the wave runs off. Got another one just like that. Finally had luck on the third one. It bowled up and I got a couple good whacks. Slow but some fun ones when they came.
This guy on a red longboard started talking to Jeannie. She waved me over. The guy was the son of someone we worked with in the 80’s. He must’ve been 6 last I saw him. Damn I’m old. So glad his dad taught him properly. Guy sat inside said good morning and after a couple inside waves and a chat he said he was going to paddle over to Kaisers.
After a kinda long wait I got a set but it was soft and it walled up and ran off. I hate that can’t get a good bottom turn on the soft pocket then the wave runs off. Got another one just like that. Finally had luck on the third one. It bowled up and I got a couple good whacks. Slow but some fun ones when they came.
This guy on a red longboard started talking to Jeannie. She waved me over. The guy was the son of someone we worked with in the 80’s. He must’ve been 6 last I saw him. Damn I’m old. So glad his dad taught him properly. Guy sat inside said good morning and after a couple inside waves and a chat he said he was going to paddle over to Kaisers.
Fun as hell today.peaky chest to headhigh a-frames. First hour already surfed out. My frontside carve and snap game is improving with my strengh training. Stayed out another 2 hours and it slowed down but still got some memorable waves. Got out and ate and decided to paddle back out. Within 8 mins flat got 2 more nuggets while the others sat. Just came straight to me back to back. Couple snaps and carves and called it a day, good times. Total surf time 3 hrs and 8 mins lol. On drive back picked up my new stamps and will be ordering another custom. Pray for surge!
good grief, went to my go to weekend sandbar and it wasn't really working that well... but 50 plus guys thought it was. Never seen it so crowded.
Rode the GX but should have been on my driver that my buddy is borowing at the moment.
Rode the GX but should have been on my driver that my buddy is borowing at the moment.
Dawned high tide Bowls. There’s suppose to be a bump coming in but it was smaller than yesterday and the high tide made it soft. Mostly paddled out to talk crap to the dawn crew and stay loose. Got a couple of sets but just flat cutbacks trying not to get too much on rail so I don’t bog. My board felt like it was riding high in the water. I guess it’s cause the waves were soft even in the pocket. Looks like the south swells are winding down. North Shore on the weekends.
Been surfing some pretty marginal slop in between rainy storm fronts. Last night was fun at the local though. Random assortment of peaks with just a couple locals. Well, one unknown guy paddled out for a bit but he didn't last long without booties.
Rode the Rusty Twin w/ NVS Album twin fins. Only the second session on these fins. I think I prefer them to the EN's. The board itself felt really good in the waist-to-overhead mushy outside-to-steep inside lumpy/bumpy/dumpy beach break waves. This board does a good job of treading that line between having some fishy glide to connect the flat sections while still having the ability to slash up any steep section that presents itself.
Rode the Rusty Twin w/ NVS Album twin fins. Only the second session on these fins. I think I prefer them to the EN's. The board itself felt really good in the waist-to-overhead mushy outside-to-steep inside lumpy/bumpy/dumpy beach break waves. This board does a good job of treading that line between having some fishy glide to connect the flat sections while still having the ability to slash up any steep section that presents itself.
Had fun the past couple mornings on the Super Chunk, Manta, superchunk in a wide range of waves. Couple really long rights today on the SC were the best. So f’ing crowded.
Surfed twice in one day for the first time in ages. Crazy crowded but got plenty of fun ones.
OBSF was massive and unruly Saturday, so I hit up a protected spot just south (not Lindamar!). Still big and unruly, and 4/5 were closeouts, but was nice to grab the 7'6 and feel some real power in the ocean. North side of this cove was 2x overhead + but no one out and looking really mean as the white wash on the inside smashed into a seawall of boulders, so I sat on the south end and got some inferior waves. Sunday, I showed up to The Beach undergunned (6'8 Blackbird and 6'3 Ghost in tow) thinking that the swell was going to drop more than it did. Was feeling like a wuss, so I drove south again, where it was a choppy mess. Got the balls to go back to The Beach and paddled out on the north end, where it wasn't macking quite like it was at Middle Beach. Paddle was a bitch, thanks to a thumping inside section. Just as I was through the death zone and into the lineup, a rogue wave, not duckdivaeable, broke about ten yards in front of me. Nice way to start a session! Current wasn't too bad, but shifty peaks and a higher tide made it hard to be in the right place, so I paddled back and forth for 30 minutes before snagging a medium set wave that was all drop and no wall. Found one more that had me flying frontside straight into an oncoming 10-foot wall of whitewater. Grabbed rail and banked off the top just in time to escape a collision, and called it a session. Winter is coming!
^ I was a little south of you and got some good sized surf as well.
In the aftermath of this swell and my Fiji trip, I've been feeing pretty under-gunned on my SoCal quiver.
Looks like I'm going to have to get a couple of step-ups.
Ordered a longer Burch asym and I might have to take some Pyzels out for a demonstration or two.
In the aftermath of this swell and my Fiji trip, I've been feeing pretty under-gunned on my SoCal quiver.
Looks like I'm going to have to get a couple of step-ups.
Ordered a longer Burch asym and I might have to take some Pyzels out for a demonstration or two.
High expectations led to a typical frustrating session in O'side this AM...every wave seemed to be under-the-lip wishful thinking or a closeout.
As the tide got higher every one that seemed makeable would end up pinching.
As the tide got higher every one that seemed makeable would end up pinching.