“He said he’s been out for 4 days and hadn’t caught a set yet. I told him 4 days it took me decades to earn a set wave out here. Entitled donkey. ”
:applause: 
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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Combo action at Retodds secret sandbar#1
Some seriously great waves coming in and I got a few . crowd was there too but to my luck most of them just took up space and were not having any luck riding a wave .
Highlight was a set with a double head dip to closeout float , one good right that would have made front page of barrel Dodgers anonymous but still good for me since pig dogging is a major weakness of mine
New Schroff was redlining Lololol
Some seriously great waves coming in and I got a few . crowd was there too but to my luck most of them just took up space and were not having any luck riding a wave .
Highlight was a set with a double head dip to closeout float , one good right that would have made front page of barrel Dodgers anonymous but still good for me since pig dogging is a major weakness of mine
New Schroff was redlining Lololol
Honestly if I was in your situation I'd be inclined to do the same just dial in thrusters from the same shaper but after years of trial and error I've realized my local, the spot that for better or worse has the most consistently surfable waves in both winter and summer, is often just not very suited to a hpsb. Fast and weak is how I would describe it much of the time. A good twin fish is my favored board whenever it's under head high and sometimes even when it's overhead. There are exceptions and I always have a thruster in my truck just in case.teeroi said:
Today was a perfect example. That swell filled in but the tide never really got low enough so the rights weren't really connecting all the way through often with most of the bigger ones swinging wide and the smaller ones shifting a little deep and running fast. Chest high sets every 15 min with plenty fun sized 'tweeners. Rode the Stamps indo/banjo with EN twins and had a complete ball.
It's cooking out, time to go upriver and cool off maybe sip a beer or two. Hope everyone has a good weekend
Nice. I’m surfed out and it’s smaller and the weekend so just went to work for a little over half day. More south swell from a Tuesday on.
We’re spoiled here. Waves year round from knee high to f*ck that. You guys in cold water with huge tide changes are way more hardcore surfers than we are. At least there seems to be more effort than just throwing a short board, wax and trunks in the car checking Surfline on the drive down to watch your friends barrel dodge the wave of the morning. Haha
Have a fun weekend. Hopefully our Tuesday south makes up your way.
We’re spoiled here. Waves year round from knee high to f*ck that. You guys in cold water with huge tide changes are way more hardcore surfers than we are. At least there seems to be more effort than just throwing a short board, wax and trunks in the car checking Surfline on the drive down to watch your friends barrel dodge the wave of the morning. Haha
Have a fun weekend. Hopefully our Tuesday south makes up your way.
Couple days at desperation bar last week kept the joints moving. Then I came down with a nasty cold. Just surfed this morning and it finally felt like summer. Super warm water and actually saw the sun!
Mitsven bonzer is so fvcking fun
Mitsven bonzer is so fvcking fun
nice weather day yesterday with warm water and little bit of swell, but what a cluster fuck in the lineup. NLA point/reefish spot and just an annoying crowd in the lineup. not the usual people at that spot so this group was sitting way out further than should have. guys missing sets and I wasn't quit up to go and burn them just in case type of attitude. somehow worse was one dude in the outer pack on a beat up funboard talking about him living on the North Shore surfing closed out Waimea, 50' jaws, having an inflatable vest and pulling it couple times. but when he caught waves he was off balance, couldn't do a top turn, and wasn't making sections. just having to overhear this kook and him going for every set but being out too far made my blood boil
fun waves. just the regulars out for the most part trading waves. started out with the flyer-f but it was only working on the bigger bowlier waves. it needs chest to shoulder high to get going. switched out during my second go out to the stamps gb and holy chit that boar flies! 3 of the best backside roundies i've ever done with the last one full on hand drag in the wave face to a fin drift rebound pulled clean. looked like a flapper kook most likely but i'll take what i can get at this age. couple fun rights where the boar just took off and got a couple good lippers. surfed out. swell was fading. called it a day. should be fun this weekend. stocked.
Light offshore yesterday , first day out since I broke my roght hand.
Checked a new spot and saw 1 guy out at the best peak on a blue longboard.
Went back to the car and as I started on the trail the rider of the blue board was going to his car .
Nice fellow with an accent .
I'm out for about 10 minutes and 2 paddle out , same blue board guy and his friend .
I said something and his friend replied , I asked what accent that was he said aussie .
I was ready to have some fun
Asked a few questions of the blue board rider then told him I made him a twin fin that the plug blew out on the first turn . Then told his friend that he took out the middle fin on the Mod fish I loaned him after all that work tuning it in as a 5 fin
Rasta perked and said I thought I recognized that logo on my board .
Apparently both are semi local here with both their wives being from here
Rastas Friend Will spends half the year here and is a great guy , this should be fun
Checked a new spot and saw 1 guy out at the best peak on a blue longboard.
Went back to the car and as I started on the trail the rider of the blue board was going to his car .
Nice fellow with an accent .
I'm out for about 10 minutes and 2 paddle out , same blue board guy and his friend .
I said something and his friend replied , I asked what accent that was he said aussie .
I was ready to have some fun
Asked a few questions of the blue board rider then told him I made him a twin fin that the plug blew out on the first turn . Then told his friend that he took out the middle fin on the Mod fish I loaned him after all that work tuning it in as a 5 fin
Rasta perked and said I thought I recognized that logo on my board .
Apparently both are semi local here with both their wives being from here
Rastas Friend Will spends half the year here and is a great guy , this should be fun
Surfed yesterday dawn patrol. We got a slowly building Taz swell. Long waits good form kinda soft. I felt uninspired. Cheered Jeannie on a few waves. Went in after a short session to go to work and cheer for Seth on the webcast. Going for a surf in a few when the sun comes up.
Surf was pretty fun this morning. The occasional head high set. Just the regular dawn patrol crew. The boys pushed Jeannie into a few nuggets. She can catch them but she loves it when the guys give her a boost especially if they push her butt. Hahaha.
Surfed this morning at the regular spot. Waves were really nice. Glassy, head high waves, overcast, dropping tide but a little slow. It wasn’t very crowded and Jeannie stayed out an hour longer since the sun was in hiding. I got some fun ones, there were barrels to be had but the waves I went on weren’t those.
Had one incident. This younger guy was sitting inside. He got right in my way on a little runner I just high lined over him as he did a deep duck dive. No big deal since it’s not crowded. A little while later I get a set and he’s trying to race me to the shoulder. Instead of stopping or paddling to the whitewash and let me go by he barely gets over and his board goes flying in the air and over. He totally ruined the best section on that wave. I’m pissed. I tell myself to calm down. So I slowly paddle back out with every intention of calmly telling him proper etiquette regarding not getting in a riders way. So I tell him that’s the second wave you got in my way. You’re blowing it. He has a clueless look on his face, “when I was paddling back out?” No sorry about that. Just oblivious to what he did. I get hot again. I raise my voice. That’s two times. First one is excusable second one is unacceptable next time I’m going to f*cking spear you. He look horrified. He went in right after that. I tried being calm but his clueless and unapologetic attitude set me off. If someone comes out to Bowls needing a lesson in manners and surf etiquette they’re going to get one from one of the crew. The best is when Jeannie yells at donkeys. Hahaha
Had one incident. This younger guy was sitting inside. He got right in my way on a little runner I just high lined over him as he did a deep duck dive. No big deal since it’s not crowded. A little while later I get a set and he’s trying to race me to the shoulder. Instead of stopping or paddling to the whitewash and let me go by he barely gets over and his board goes flying in the air and over. He totally ruined the best section on that wave. I’m pissed. I tell myself to calm down. So I slowly paddle back out with every intention of calmly telling him proper etiquette regarding not getting in a riders way. So I tell him that’s the second wave you got in my way. You’re blowing it. He has a clueless look on his face, “when I was paddling back out?” No sorry about that. Just oblivious to what he did. I get hot again. I raise my voice. That’s two times. First one is excusable second one is unacceptable next time I’m going to f*cking spear you. He look horrified. He went in right after that. I tried being calm but his clueless and unapologetic attitude set me off. If someone comes out to Bowls needing a lesson in manners and surf etiquette they’re going to get one from one of the crew. The best is when Jeannie yells at donkeys. Hahaha
First surf in a week due to being sick and having a tweaked back. Fatty high-tide waves, but super
warm water, beautiful weather, and I was able to get to my feet without much problem, so I was
f'ing stoked. VS HPTC log was great for the conditions. Needed that.
warm water, beautiful weather, and I was able to get to my feet without much problem, so I was
f'ing stoked. VS HPTC log was great for the conditions. Needed that.
Waves were fun. About same as yesterday. Head high plus. Clean, light wind. Got a couple of fun ones between long waits.
Lance Hookano came out. He rips on his longboard, can be loud and pretty much chased the crowd in. Any other long boarder that paddled out he sent them toward Rockpiles. He told funny stories the whole time he was out.
Lance Hookano came out. He rips on his longboard, can be loud and pretty much chased the crowd in. Any other long boarder that paddled out he sent them toward Rockpiles. He told funny stories the whole time he was out.
Flat as a lake in the bay. Drove 30 min North yesterday to run errands and check the more exposed beaches. Sheet glass and sunny but pretty much about knee high and weak. Stamps WTF came in clutch. Got a handful of fun lefts and rights and washed off the last week of 12 hour workdays.
Today was same size but not as clean at the same spot. No worries, went mountain biking.
Looks like swell on the way, yeehaw.
Today was same size but not as clean at the same spot. No worries, went mountain biking.
Looks like swell on the way, yeehaw.
Another day with all the county bros.
4-packs paddling out on top of each other all morning.
Walked down the beach away from the crowd and found my own peak. There were small racey rights that provided enough fun for 1 person.
Of course I get 000'd by a 4-pack who weren't capable of finding their own peak.
Pretended they didn't exist for the last half of my session and went in.
4-packs paddling out on top of each other all morning.
Walked down the beach away from the crowd and found my own peak. There were small racey rights that provided enough fun for 1 person.
Of course I get 000'd by a 4-pack who weren't capable of finding their own peak.
Pretended they didn't exist for the last half of my session and went in.
Glad you guys are getting some. This last swell is almost gone. Add high tide and it was slow. The main reason I went down was I saw a friend that’s a surf instructor yesterday. He told me his skateboard got ripped off. So I told him I got lots of skate stuff. New stuff I need to get rid of. He said he was going to be there at 9. So I just automatically woke up early dawn patrolled it until 830 to meet up with my friend.
Managed to get a couple of fun waves too. Only thing when it’s small and soft my knee hurts from pushing that much harder. Saw I guy on a wave hopping I pointed it out to the crew. Last time I hopped Jeannie left a message on my phone no hopping. The next wave I really pushed hard rail to rail for speed. Can’t talk crap then do what you’re sh*tting on. My knee felt a little sore after that one but I got speed going to rail. Hahaha
Managed to get a couple of fun waves too. Only thing when it’s small and soft my knee hurts from pushing that much harder. Saw I guy on a wave hopping I pointed it out to the crew. Last time I hopped Jeannie left a message on my phone no hopping. The next wave I really pushed hard rail to rail for speed. Can’t talk crap then do what you’re sh*tting on. My knee felt a little sore after that one but I got speed going to rail. Hahaha
Mostly small and crumbly with a few little log runners mixed in. Connected
quite a few long burgers and a few with ok shape down the beach on the
VS Slot Noserider. Water feels amazing and the back was ok. Stoked!
quite a few long burgers and a few with ok shape down the beach on the
VS Slot Noserider. Water feels amazing and the back was ok. Stoked!