Waves are small but looks surfable. Passed. Time to recover and get work done. More south and some north later in the week.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
fun session. stayed out for 3.5 hours and got about 40+ waves. totally surged out. was able to sit deep with the pack in the stamps gb and connect the set wave runners despite going backside. almost tomo like speed with 80's flare. couple carves and snaps and even pulled my nemesis the backside floater. i could hear my own spray coming off the rail and landing in the water on one backside carve. prly looked kooky but i'll take what i can get. the fun part is that i'm still improving despite being middle aged. blocked for a couple of the regular girls out on a couple set waves to share the stock. good times and got to enjoy my last weekday morning surf window until winter. pesky work schedule. pray for surge!
Surfed a new-to-me Stamps Fuse at dawn (thank you, T, for pickup/delivery!). Surfed like a donkey
for the most part, but ended on a good shoulder high runner that saved the session for me. Need
to try different fins and/or setups. Water is damn near 80* right now. Feels amazing.
for the most part, but ended on a good shoulder high runner that saved the session for me. Need
to try different fins and/or setups. Water is damn near 80* right now. Feels amazing.
Yesterday was tiny but I had fun on the banjo with just one other person out. A cute blonde 20something.
Today the swell built a little and I rode my other stamps fish at a sneaky left-dominant a-frame. Sometimes twins are tough for me on the backhand but I felt good this session. Waves were chest high, long period peelers with a good pace. Got a ton of waves. Water is sooo warm. Must be near 60F.
Today the swell built a little and I rode my other stamps fish at a sneaky left-dominant a-frame. Sometimes twins are tough for me on the backhand but I felt good this session. Waves were chest high, long period peelers with a good pace. Got a ton of waves. Water is sooo warm. Must be near 60F.
Got a little chest ish high bump on Monday.
Everyone and their mother was out for labor day. Water felt like a hot tub.
My style felt so off , took me awhile to get back in the groove. Shaky but completing maneuvers. Had one snap all day that felt right. Gotta remember to keep foot all the way back on the wider boars.
Could have used less entry rocker for these SLOOOOOOW take offs that bowl up after the first section.
Got burned a few times by clueless people but I was so happy to surf I was pretty mellow.
Everyone and their mother was out for labor day. Water felt like a hot tub.
My style felt so off , took me awhile to get back in the groove. Shaky but completing maneuvers. Had one snap all day that felt right. Gotta remember to keep foot all the way back on the wider boars.
Could have used less entry rocker for these SLOOOOOOW take offs that bowl up after the first section.
Got burned a few times by clueless people but I was so happy to surf I was pretty mellow.
Pretty awful session this morning. Wind was coming up so I kinda scrambled out there without watching it for long. Thought it was bigger than it looked and took the Ghost out. It was all chopped up and not really that powerful or shapely. Felt like I was sinking on the step up. Got a couple snaps that almost made it worth it. Slipped on the seaweed covered rocks coming in and bashed my shin pretty well. Win some, lose some.
Pretty fun session on a recently acquired GG Hovercraft in-line tri. Got a few fun smallish runners with some decent little end section smacks. Board catches waves well and gets up and goes. Beautiful sky and warm water ftw!
Evening redemption sesh at a right hand sand bar. Chest high and clean. Outside walls were fun and allowed for a couple turns before it doubled up on the inside and racing in front of a rock shelf. Got a few lil barrels and a bunch of fun turns. Surfed alone until it was too dark to see. Stamps twin fish with the big EN fins felt great.
Birthday session started out with some fast tapering wedges that allowed for a couple turns, quickly turned into a close out toob fest.
Surf was a little bigger than I thought it was going to be. Some sets a little overhead. This south shore has been delivering this year and it looks like we’ve got surf lined up for another week. North Shore has been seeing head high and bigger surf too.
Rode my 5’9 Hot Pocket from Vesso. Kerry Tokoro’s backyard label. Board feels fun. I think the 5’10 I’ve been surfing most of the summer is starting to lose pop.
This older guy on a shortboard was sitting inside. Never seen him before. He got in the way of my line on a really good wave. But he was doing all the right things. He tried to paddle behind me but when I cutback I had to stop the turn halfway and almost got left off the back. I did a dreaded hop and got going again. When I paddled back out he waved and said sorry for getting in the way. I stopped and told him thanks, lately a lot of younger guys get in the way and are so clueless they aren’t aware they got in the way or just play dumb. When I paddled back out I told the crew what happened. They were teasing me for not yelling at him. I said first ones for free. Hahaha
Rode my 5’9 Hot Pocket from Vesso. Kerry Tokoro’s backyard label. Board feels fun. I think the 5’10 I’ve been surfing most of the summer is starting to lose pop.
This older guy on a shortboard was sitting inside. Never seen him before. He got in the way of my line on a really good wave. But he was doing all the right things. He tried to paddle behind me but when I cutback I had to stop the turn halfway and almost got left off the back. I did a dreaded hop and got going again. When I paddled back out he waved and said sorry for getting in the way. I stopped and told him thanks, lately a lot of younger guys get in the way and are so clueless they aren’t aware they got in the way or just play dumb. When I paddled back out I told the crew what happened. They were teasing me for not yelling at him. I said first ones for free. Hahaha
Local spot on Kauai I was always afraid to surf. Not to many guys on it the last day of my visit, so I paddled out. I'm sitting inside the pack of 4 on the peak. Set comes, we're all paddling out and over towards the shoulder to get in position. One of the guys is obviously going. I realize I'm not going to get out of his way so I turn and paddle deep to duck dive and not be in his way. Just after I commit to paddling deep, he swings that way and I'm directly in his path and he can't take off.
Somehow he didn't yell at me. He was just disappointed in me.
Somehow he didn't yell at me. He was just disappointed in me.
Surf was really good dawn patrol. Took out my new 6’0 Tokoro. I was up the Pali and I forgot to bring wax. Good thing Walmart carries Sticky Bumps. 5am Walmart is a trip.
Waves were a little overhead on sets and some tubes. First wave on new board hit the lip and went over the back. Second wave got a double up and got a nice barrel. It was breaking in front of me from the Big Bowl but it got round and let me out the doggy door. Got a few more nugs then the tide got too high and a big Hawaiian on an SUP ruined the vibe. One of the OG uncles scolded him but he gave Uncle Paul lip. So lame. I told Uncle Paul thanks for telling the guy what’s up. It’s hard for me to tell a Hawaiian he’s a donkey.
Here’s the new board. It’s my DD for winter up to DOH. Tokoro 4X 6’0 x 20x 2 3/4. 33L. Pintail of course. Pin for the win.
Waves were a little overhead on sets and some tubes. First wave on new board hit the lip and went over the back. Second wave got a double up and got a nice barrel. It was breaking in front of me from the Big Bowl but it got round and let me out the doggy door. Got a few more nugs then the tide got too high and a big Hawaiian on an SUP ruined the vibe. One of the OG uncles scolded him but he gave Uncle Paul lip. So lame. I told Uncle Paul thanks for telling the guy what’s up. It’s hard for me to tell a Hawaiian he’s a donkey.
Here’s the new board. It’s my DD for winter up to DOH. Tokoro 4X 6’0 x 20x 2 3/4. 33L. Pintail of course. Pin for the win.