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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
It’s blistering hot here with the light winds. 82 feels much higher. I’ve been wearing a Lycra top to keep the sun off. The waters been warm too. Talked to a oceanographer who surfs. Said we will probably have coral bleaching with the warm water temps. It happened last El Niño.

Surf conditions were nice. Wind went back to light trades but the swell is slowing trying to fill in. Some soft shoulder high waves. Good direction. West Taz swell. Only thing it loses a lot of energy going thru the Fiji islands and long lulls. I think a stronger swell is trying to fill in. Occasionally a multi wave set will roll thru.?
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,905
23,931
113
Tower 13
Looked at what appeared to be barely rideable closeouts. Contemplated driving over to desperation bar but we knew it was going to be packed. Took a chance and surfed alone and glad we did. Nice little standup nugs (for august). That little mitsven bonzer is the beez kneez (did I spell that right)?
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,905
23,931
113
Tower 13
6'2" 21 2 3/4

I went big but I love it. Still small enough to fit in smaller waves but a real cheater with so much volume. I'm 205 and normally ride 32 L in my shortberts

Oh and this stamps wait is killing me!
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,905
23,931
113
Tower 13
Yeah Mitsven design on this model can be ridden short so this is actually kind of long. I haven't seen your GH but it probably has more of a refined foil with more tapered rails than mine. Your board probably goes insane being a GH.
 
MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,602
6,162
113
SD
sd_101 said:
Yeah. I was hoping I’d get the email this week but SOL.
Click to expand...
I broke down and emailed him because I had to go up that way for work this week. Another week or two for mine (eps).
 
teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Surfed some pretty fun waves this morning. Glassy head high sets. Felt soft even at the lower tide. The tide here is higher than reported. Felt like high tide when it gets as suppose to be low tide.

Josh Moniz was out. He just got back from BSR. He said it was fun and that I would be able to surf it and have fun. But no air waves for general public.
 
R

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Quick dip yesterday morning at the secret sandbar #2

Only crowd was the birds and dolphins :rockin:

45 min of steep lil peaks in the waist high range . Couple good floaters and hits . All fins still intact so that was a win considering it was 6 inches deep

Griffin wing swallow modfish is so fun . Really nailed it Greg

 
Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,708
2,354
113
Oceanside, CA
Yesterday and today surfed the VS HPTC log. Yesterday found some pretty fun waves but today was pretty
meh and absurdly crowded. Better than not getting wet!
 
teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Paddled out in the dark dark. Waves were fun. Head high glassy more than one wave in the sets. Got a barrel in the dark or at least I thought I did. Tried to doggy door it out but chose the wrong spot and ended up body surfing on my back with the whitewash going up my nose. Haha.

Later some donkey comes out on a wavestorm and tries for the first wave. He gets burned. Same thing on every set. Paddles for the first one gets burned. I burned him twice. Finally one of the old timers that still rides a short board sounded him. Told him we don’t know you you paddle for every set not going to happen.

As soon as that kook leaves another donkey on a wavestorm comes out. Same thing. He actually got a medium one without getting burned. Now I was waiting for a good 15 minutes for a set. He paddles outside of me and tries to hoot me off. I burn him and cutback into him and try to push him off. I think I got donkey germs on me. Gross. I’m pissed. I paddle back out and start yelling st him. Telling him he’s got no manners. We were all waiting got a good rotation going and he comes out and wants to sit on top of us and get sets. F that. He tells me please don’t drop in on me again. I tell him I’m going to sit inside and burn him all day.

I tell him all of us are going to drop in on him on every wave. F-ing entitled kook on a hundred dollar Costco board. No way. All of us have spent years earning our spot in the lineup and you want come out and mess up the rotation. Not today. He starts paddling away. One of the locals Elmar goes you scared him away T. I look at the crowd and go you’re welcome. Got two more and went in. Haha.
 
Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,258
23,456
113
PNW
teeroi doing god's work :bowdown:

stocked you got a sesh in todd.

it's been small here but really calm and nice so I took my brother's wife's sister's kid out on the soft top for his first session and we had a blast. he's visiting from Uganda and had never been in the ocean but he watched me surf a few on my fish the day before and I could tell he wanted to charge it. he's only 8 but he's a strong swimmer and fearless. grom stoke is the best.
 
Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,853
12,556
113
in da hood next to paradise
teeroi said:
Paddled out in the dark dark. Waves were fun. Head high glassy more than one wave in the sets. Got a barrel in the dark or at least I thought I did. Tried to doggy door it out but chose the wrong spot and ended up body surfing on my back with the whitewash going up my nose. Haha.

Later some donkey comes out on a wavestorm and tries for the first wave. He gets burned. Same thing on every set. Paddles for the first one gets burned. I burned him twice. Finally one of the old timers that still rides a short board sounded him. Told him we don’t know you you paddle for every set not going to happen.

As soon as that kook leaves another donkey on a wavestorm comes out. Same thing. He actually got a medium one without getting burned. Now I was waiting for a good 15 minutes for a set. He paddles outside of me and tries to hoot me off. I burn him and cutback into him and try to push him off. I think I got donkey germs on me. Gross. I’m pissed. I paddle back out and start yelling st him. Telling him he’s got no manners. We were all waiting got a good rotation going and he comes out and wants to sit on top of us and get sets. F that. He tells me please don’t drop in on me again. I tell him I’m going to sit inside and burn him all day.

I tell him all of us are going to drop in on him on every wave. F-ing entitled kook on a hundred dollar Costco board. No way. All of us have spent years earning our spot in the lineup and you want come out and mess up the rotation. Not today. He starts paddling away. One of the locals Elmar goes you scared him away T. I look at the crowd and go you’re welcome. Got two more and went in. Haha.
Click to expand...
there is still order in the universe!! :applause:
 
teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Right on Aruka. Teaching groms to surf and about the ocean is good work.

Yeah as I was yelling at the guy this lady I know is paddling out. I see her and in my nicest voice tell her good morning Elaine. A set comes I start yelling at the guy catch this wave and see what happens. The crowd let’s me go. I paddle back out and Elaine tells me you scared him away. I tell her you didn’t leave. She goes I ain’t scared of you. Then see waves this guy over. T this is my nephew. First thing he tells me I’m not on a soft top. Hahaha.
 
teeroi

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
This morning was really fun. No wavestorm drama. Just the regular dawn patrol crew taking turns, cheering and heckling each other. Head high plus. New swell building all day.

Couple pro surfers out. Daniel Jones and Josh Moniz. They get a lot of waves but they’re the medium to smaller ones. When Josh wanted a set he sat and waited like the rest of the crew. I don’t know how they act when traveling but we’ve known those two since they were kids and they’re always respectful.
 
Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,708
2,354
113
Oceanside, CA
Aruka said:
teeroi doing god's work :bowdown:

stocked you got a sesh in todd.

it's been small here but really calm and nice so I took my brother's wife's sister's kid out on the soft top for his first session and we had a blast. he's visiting from Uganda and had never been in the ocean but he watched me surf a few on my fish the day before and I could tell he wanted to charge it. he's only 8 but he's a strong swimmer and fearless. grom stoke is the best.
Click to expand...
This is epic, Aruka.

Got some small, but clean little cruisers on the VS Slot Noserider mid-morning. Can't believe how many people were still
out on a Monday. I had fun zigzagging several to the beach...would have been rough on a small board.
 
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