You talk to adult learners in the lineup? I never. Jeannie is even worse.I have a few adult learner friends And I think a major flaw is that all of these guys don’t want to waste waves. In their head they want to surf each wave perfect and to completion, but what they end up doing is safety surfing or check turning all the way to the shoulder. I try to tell them to go all out on one turn and risk it to see what if feels like (cause they all say they want to do a snap in the lip). I remember as a grom trying to explode on one turn and learning what that feels like and risking the whole wave to try it. Gotta risk it to even see what it’s like. I see that with Yuri. He wants to ride each wave all the way to the inside, never commits to a big turn.
My friend is kind of an adult learner hybrid. He surfed as a grom. Didn’t surf for years and now is committed to surfing everyday. He surfs way better than Yury but has some of the same hiccups. He’s a boar whore and will ride a different boar and type of boar each session. Fish, performance twin, midlength, stubby thruster, longboar. He’s had a few Albums, Plasmic and the Twinsman. It’s like using a new baseball glove every game. Never breaks in the glove. He fell on a good wave and asked one of the uncles what he did wrong. John told him wrong sport. Haha.