this has been happening allot the past 2-3 years
lost a good friend who appeared in excellent health (surfing everyday) last year the same way
just dies in the lineup on his board (massive heart attack)
The surfer is Burrell Thimm. Didn’t want to say anything cause both he and his wife are flight attendants and she was on a trip. He’s in a chemically induced coma and recovering. Hopefully he recovers. No word what caused him to go unconscious.
Back in the 80’s he surfed for Local Motion when I worked there. He got a cover on Surfer shot by Warren Bolster. He told me the story and it’s classic.
Burrell got a call that Warren rented a helicopter and was going to shoot the LoMo pros at Kaiser’s. Burrell must’ve been at work, pre cellphone. He called a friend to grab his board and run it down to the beach. While he’s waiting a kid paddled in with a Local Motion board. He begs the kid to borrow his board for 30 minutes.
He paddled out and the pros are Tony Moniz, Buttons and Bertleman. He figures no way I’m getting a set. Catches 3 inside waves and forgets about it. During the winter he’s driving out the NS with a crew and they stop at a mom and pop store maybe Kammies or somewhere in Wahiawa and his friend saw the mag with him on the cover. His buddy buys it gets in the car punches him in the arm. When Burrell asks what’s that for. His buddy throws the mag on his lap. He said he couldn’t stop smiling the whole day. I probably got some details wrong I’m hoping he gets better and can tell me that story again.