Where the South's At?

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
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I remember one storm that came in 97/98 and when it hit our apt on the Calafia loop in San Clem, the whole place shook like it was hit by a hurricane from the gusts - way harder than any Santa Ana I'd seen to that point. After growing up on the EC, I was like, oh, finally I get to feel a real storm in California. That was the year too, IIRC that Tom Curren surfed this giant sandspit that formed at Doheny. The water was black black black and the waves were giant and he was ripping the literal sh!t out of it.
That happened in ‘77 too, the water and beach were a mess with flotsam runoff from the SJC. Rattlesnakes. Had I not been there I never would have believed it. Herbie got some smokers.
 
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averagejoe

Miki Dora status
May 28, 2008
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So far away
www.mardawg.com
97/98 is also the El Nino I have engrained in my mind.

There are mysto spots I saw breaking that February for weeks on end, which I've never seen break again. There were sandbars where I've never seen sandbars. I remember all the surfers in the office I worked for in SLO, we would drive to Shell, Avila, or PIsmo on our lunch hour just to see the massive waves.

I remember my buddy and I, along with a few others trying to paddle out at double-o Shell beach on a nasty day. It was wrapping and connecting into a cove way down the line, like a mile long ride if you could get into it and race it. Getting out was brutal. By the time we got out, I remember saying HOLY sh!t because I looked over, and were basically inline with Bird Rock which waves were trying to cap off of. We were way the fuck out there.

Only three of us made it out. And each of us only rode one wave.

My buddy took off first and caught the wave of the day. He said he dropped in, and pumped it as hard as he could. He rode it so far, he needed a ride back to the parking lot because he walked up at another beach a mile away.

Then I took off. I totally got caught behind the lip on mine as it pitched on my bottom turn. I got destroyed in the flats. There were no reef to walk up on so I spent time trying to not die along the cliff edge as the water bashed me good.

The third guy also screwed up and got smashed and ragdolled into where I was. I watched him get pummeled as I was getting beat down in 3' of water next to the cliffs. Full on whitewater rinse party. Me and that guy also ended up coming in at another spot because we had no chance making it back to the usual entry/exit spot. Every time I tried to paddle sideways along the cliff, the current just kept pushing me down the line.

I'll never forget the things I saw that winter. And every time El Nino comes up, it's all I have to compare it to.
I got laid off from a job in Sept 2009 at the tip of the 09/10 El Niño. It started breaking head high or better in Sept and didn’t stop til Feb. I learned so much that season.

I would be stoked to have another similar season. Waves so plentiful you have to limit your consecutive days to allow for some recovery.
 
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grapedrink

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May 21, 2011
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A Beach
I got laid off from a job in Sept 2009 at the tip of the 09/10 El Niño. It started breaking head high or better in Sept and didn’t stop til Feb. I learned so much that season.

I would be stoked to have another similar season. Waves so plentiful you have to limit your consecutive days to allow for some recovery.
That fall season was insane :beer:Was my last quarter of grad school with only 1 class and I was no longer working. So much free time to surf and perfect conditions :beer:
 
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r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
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Cambria
115 in the Valley today.
Fog is trying to burn off a bit and it looks very clean but flat af of course. :foreheadslap:
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
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Central California
That happened in ‘77 too, the water and beach were a mess with flotsam runoff from the SJC. Rattlesnakes. Had I not been there I never would have believed it. Herbie got some smokers.
Happened in the 2000's as well. 2006 maybe?

River blew out and produced a perfect sand point set-up.

2 weeks later a few big NW swells came through and made perfect 6ft barrels throwing as wide as they were tall.

I had to rub my eyes when I showed up because I didn't believe what I was seeing
 
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Slabsplease

OTF status
Mar 5, 2015
158
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Have surfed twice weekly at the least in SoCal this spring/summer, some extra fun/bowly 1's this morning too on the tide push at the local, no complaints, thankful, always try to make lemonade out of your perceived lemons...
 

oneworlded

Administrator
Jun 4, 2004
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Murrica
chrisdixonreports.com
Happened in the 2000's as well. 2006 maybe?

River blew out and produced a perfect sand point set-up.

2 weeks later a few big NW swells came through and made perfect 6ft barrels throwing as wide as they were tall.

I had to rub my eyes when I showed up because I didn't believe what I was seeing
That 97 El Niño when the San Mateo creek blew out it carried out god knows how much poison oak. I got lit up so bad. Was just itching for weeks. That was a novel experience.
 

hammies

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Apr 8, 2006
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The summer prior to the Monster from New Zealand was particularly flat, I recall.
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
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The summer prior to the Monster from New Zealand was particularly flat, I recall.
I went to Ensenada for that swell, surfed flawless outer stacks with one other guy. Before the harbor extension.
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,465
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quit naming stacks
San Miguel the evening before that.

My ex cuñado (he’s dead that’s why he’s an ex) was at the fishy school there and when we were there he and his buddies were watching from the short jetty by the school. He remembered me when we met at my wedding 20 years later.
 
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Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
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Jacksonville Beach
.7 @ 17 on the nearshore buoy. New England's going to get it better.

I'm looking forward to my 2 week Delaware trip late August.
Grim. Normally you want a La Nina for late August on the EC.

I predict sometime this fall SoCal will get an early season Northern Hemi to drop down low and send like a 265 the same time a SSW rolls through with good conditions all day.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
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i predict great souths in my area for 1month starting tomorrow
 

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
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.7 @ 17 on the nearshore buoy. New England's going to get it better.



Grim. Normally you want a La Nina for late August on the EC.

I predict sometime this fall SoCal will get an early season Northern Hemi to drop down low and send like a 265 the same time a SSW rolls through with good conditions all day.
I always get surf on my trips in late August. Warm clean water. Sun in my face. Empty beachbreaks at dawn. Small but fun. I got a 38 litre quad that loves waist to chest high waves. Going Mexico in October and back to Delaware too. Maybe an OBX trip.
 

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
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I went to Ensenada for that swell, surfed flawless outer stacks with one other guy. Before the harbor extension.
I had only been surfing for a couple of years and those were the biggest waves I had ever surfed. I recall getting my ass handled to me on multiple occasions during that swell.