It's pumping out there today. Yewwww!
FYI, skis are not allowed at OBSF.
Note drone and jet ski. Bro brah standing in foreground is not the drone operator. Ski had a rescue sled and was giving some guy rides back to the outside. I think drone operator is the guy near the waters edge, way in the bg.
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Bros, I was there. Okay, so I paddle out all by myself a little after 9:00 this morning. It's cleaning up with the offshores and tide starting to drop. Big OB. Get punished on the paddle, including taking two set waves on the head just as I (almost) reach the outside. Brutal, cuz my heart rate is high and the hold downs are long. Almost two wave hold-down, come up to see the second one rearing up right in front of me, get a breathe and take another ride. Breathe reflex is pounding in my chest as I take, one, two, three, four strokes to the surface. Finally make it out, sit and breathe. I grabbed two in about 90 minutes. The last one, I'll call a proper bomb. But my waves are beside the point.
Anyway, as I touch sand, I notice a ski idling where you see it in the picture (that's me and my 8'6 Hess on the right of the screen). Saw it come from the north end earlier and thought lifeguards/fire dept. were running drills. Nope. It's some random dude. A couple moments after this picture, a guy comes running down the dune at Noriega carrying what must be a 6'3 round tail Dylan flat deck with no leash.
I recognize him immediately as Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca. I lock eyes with him (yes, he's even hotter in person!), and he runs straight up to me with a huge smile and gives me fist bump (swoon!).
"What's up, Chumbo! I saw footage of you taking a huge one on the head at Mavs yesterday!"
"Yeah, it was heavy, bro. Looking fun out there!"
"Yew!"
He runs out to the ski, which zig zags around until it finds a way out. He proceeds to step-off into a 3x overhead bomb, highlining and weaving like he's on a 6 foot wave, pulls into an absolutely unmakeable barrel, comes out, rides it into the shorey, where he pops an air reverse, and jumps back on the ski. Insane sh!t. True story.
I made an insta post about it: http://instagr.am/p/CaidJ4jLvzL/
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