The Official OBSF Support Group

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
It's pumping out there today. Yewwww! :jamon:

FYI, skis are not allowed at OBSF.

Note drone and jet ski. Bro brah standing in foreground is not the drone operator. Ski had a rescue sled and was giving some guy rides back to the outside. I think drone operator is the guy near the waters edge, way in the bg.

View attachment 125145

Bros, I was there. Okay, so I paddle out all by myself a little after 9:00 this morning. It's cleaning up with the offshores and tide starting to drop. Big OB. Get punished on the paddle, including taking two set waves on the head just as I (almost) reach the outside. Brutal, cuz my heart rate is high and the hold downs are long. Almost two wave hold-down, come up to see the second one rearing up right in front of me, get a breathe and take another ride. Breathe reflex is pounding in my chest as I take, one, two, three, four strokes to the surface. Finally make it out, sit and breathe. I grabbed two in about 90 minutes. The last one, I'll call a proper bomb. But my waves are beside the point.

Anyway, as I touch sand, I notice a ski idling where you see it in the picture (that's me and my 8'6 Hess on the right of the screen). Saw it come from the north end earlier and thought lifeguards/fire dept. were running drills. Nope. It's some random dude. A couple moments after this picture, a guy comes running down the dune at Noriega carrying what must be a 6'3 round tail Dylan flat deck with no leash.

I recognize him immediately as Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca. I lock eyes with him (yes, he's even hotter in person!), and he runs straight up to me with a huge smile and gives me fist bump (swoon!).
"What's up, Chumbo! I saw footage of you taking a huge one on the head at Mavs yesterday!"
"Yeah, it was heavy, bro. Looking fun out there!"
"Yew!"

He runs out to the ski, which zig zags around until it finds a way out. He proceeds to step-off into a 3x overhead bomb, highlining and weaving like he's on a 6 foot wave, pulls into an absolutely unmakeable barrel, comes out, rides it into the shorey, where he pops an air reverse, and jumps back on the ski. Insane sh!t. True story.

I made an insta post about it: http://instagr.am/p/CaidJ4jLvzL/
 
Last edited:

mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
36,724
15,942
113
Bros, I was there. Okay, so I paddle out all by myself a little after 9:00 this morning. It's cleaning up with the offshores and tide starting to drop. Big OB. Get punished on the paddle, including taking two set waves on the head just as I (almost) reach the outside. Brutal, cuz my heart rate is high and the hold downs are long. Almost two wave hold-down, come up to see the second one rearing up right in front of me, get a breathe and take another ride. Breathe reflex is pounding in my chest as I take, one, two, three, four strokes to the surface. Finally make it out, sit and breathe. I grabbed two in about 90 minutes. The last one, I'll call a proper bomb. But my waves are beside the point.

Anyway, as I get to the beach, I notice a ski idling where you see it in the picture (that's me and my 8'6 Hess on the right of the screen). Saw it come from the north end earlier and thought lifeguards/fire dept. was running drills. Nope. It's some random dude. A couple moments after this picture, a guy comes running down the dune at Noriega carrying what must be a 6'3 round tail Dylan flat deck with no leash.

I recognize him immediately as Lucas Chumbo. I lock eyes with him (yes, he's even hotter in person!), and he runs straight up to me with a huge smile and gives me fist bump (swoon!).
"What's up, Lucas Chumbo! I saw footage of you taking a huge one on the head at Mavs yesterday!"
"Yeah, it was heavy, bro. Looking fun out there!"
"Yew!"

He proceeds to run out to the ski, which zig zags around until it finds a way out. He proceeds to step-off into a 3x overhead bomb, highlining and weaving like he's on a 6 foot wave, pulls into an absolutely unmakeable barrel, comes out, rides it into the shorey, where he pops an air reverse, and jumps back on the ski. Insane sh!t. True story.
The dude does section floaters at Nazare.
 

92122

Michael Peterson status
Jul 29, 2015
2,598
1,024
113
This goes here...


I'm just about through this chapter in his book "Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life" and this appears to be a complete excerpt of it. Finnegan's memoirs of OBSF seem spot on and very humble.


WIlliam Finnegan said:
On bigger days, when you’re looking out from the water’s edge across a stepladder of six or seven walls of cold, growling, onrushing white water, the idea of paddling out actually carries with it a whiff of lunacy. The project looks impossible, like trying to swim up a waterfall.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,860
7,759
113
San Francisco, CA
Unsure if posted elsewhere...probably has been, so sorry for the repost.

Bill Hickey paddle out related.

Blurb:

On a recent Sunday morning at the weather-worn entrance of Kelly’s Cove nestled beneath the Cliff House, a crowd of nearly 100 people gathered around an assortment of custom-made surfboards, each bearing watercolorlike swirls, meticulous pinstriping and a bold, unmistakable “H.”

Some of the spectators had been plunging into the frigid waters of this legendary San Francisco surf spot since as early as the 1950s — before the days of wetsuits, leashes, lifeguards and even boards themselves. Others had only heard stories about that mythic time and hoped to pay tribute to someone they thought of as a mentor and a trailblazing surfer at Ocean Beach.


Bill Hickey was born at St. Luke’s Hospital in San Francisco on Sept. 23, 1936, though his family resided in San Mateo at the time. They eventually moved to a house in the Sunset District on 39th Avenue between Lawton and Moraga streets while his father worked as a superintendent for famed developer Henry Doelger, who built more than 16,000 homes on the west side of the city.
 
Jan 4, 2009
80
261
53
San Diego
Unsure if posted elsewhere...probably has been, so sorry for the repost.

Bill Hickey paddle out related.

Blurb:

On a recent Sunday morning at the weather-worn entrance of Kelly’s Cove nestled beneath the Cliff House, a crowd of nearly 100 people gathered around an assortment of custom-made surfboards, each bearing watercolorlike swirls, meticulous pinstriping and a bold, unmistakable “H.”

Some of the spectators had been plunging into the frigid waters of this legendary San Francisco surf spot since as early as the 1950s — before the days of wetsuits, leashes, lifeguards and even boards themselves. Others had only heard stories about that mythic time and hoped to pay tribute to someone they thought of as a mentor and a trailblazing surfer at Ocean Beach.


Bill Hickey was born at St. Luke’s Hospital in San Francisco on Sept. 23, 1936, though his family resided in San Mateo at the time. They eventually moved to a house in the Sunset District on 39th Avenue between Lawton and Moraga streets while his father worked as a superintendent for famed developer Henry Doelger, who built more than 16,000 homes on the west side of the city.
[/QUOTE

That was really great tribute in SFGATE! That place is really special to me. I lived on 47th and Cabrillo looking out at Kellys in the late 80's. The locals were tough on a Hawaiian transplant like myself, but overtime I gained their respect and had many memorable sessions on that stretch of coast. I've surfed everywhere and I can honestly say, Ocean beach is one of the most challenging/highest reward places I've ever surfed. Hats off to all the OB locals and RIP Bill Hickey.
 
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R3W

Phil Edwards status
Feb 19, 2002
6,864
32
48
Frisco
This woke my up out of hibernation long enough to point out that the “Domond” in Playing Doc’s Games is the erBB’s most legendary LeeD.

“Edwin, who has been silently watching the ocean from behind mirrored sunglasses, erupts. “I have an idea,” he announces. “Let’s form a support group. I’m not going out there, because I’m scared to go out there. Why don’t we all just say that? ‘I’m not going out there, because I’m scared to go out there.’ Come on, Domond, you say it.”
Domond, a noisy tough who works in Wise’s shop when he’s not driving a taxicab, turns away in disgust. So Edwin addresses himself to another homeboy, known as Beeper Dave, but he also turns away, grumbling and shaking his head. Everybody then ignores Edwin, who just laughs easily and shrugs.”

Back to sleep now.

(Hi Doof)


This goes here...


I'm just about through this chapter in his book "Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life" and this appears to be a complete excerpt of it. Finnegan's memoirs of OBSF seem spot on and very humble.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,860
7,759
113
San Francisco, CA
Hey there R3W, thanks for dropping in!

This woke my up out of hibernation long enough to point out that the “Domond” in Playing Doc’s Games is the erBB’s most legendary LeeD.
From surf/taxi driver to tennis pro to gardener.....not the worst arc I could imagine.

You enjoying the relocation?
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,261
4,656
113
Early afternoon yesterday had some of those "if - I could-just-get-right-THERE" sections that looked unreal, but impossible to get to. Like when it's blown to hell but you see one spit it's guts out somehow..
 
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Random Guy

Duke status
Jan 16, 2002
32,009
6,134
113
This woke my up out of hibernation long enough to point out that the “Domond” in Playing Doc’s Games is the erBB’s most legendary LeeD.

“Edwin, who has been silently watching the ocean from behind mirrored sunglasses, erupts. “I have an idea,” he announces. “Let’s form a support group. I’m not going out there, because I’m scared to go out there. Why don’t we all just say that? ‘I’m not going out there, because I’m scared to go out there.’ Come on, Domond, you say it.”
Domond, a noisy tough who works in Wise’s shop when he’s not driving a taxicab, turns away in disgust. So Edwin addresses himself to another homeboy, known as Beeper Dave, but he also turns away, grumbling and shaking his head. Everybody then ignores Edwin, who just laughs easily and shrugs.”

Back to sleep now.

(Hi Doof)
Hey r3w, what’s up man?
cowabunga
rg
 

R3W

Phil Edwards status
Feb 19, 2002
6,864
32
48
Frisco
Hey r3w, what’s up man?
cowabunga
rg
Hey RG. It’s going alright. I’m a couple years into retirement (sure beats working) and as Doof alluded to, we’re moving south soon, somewhere between SF and the Mexican border. Going where the weather suits my clothes as the man said.
 
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PeterDj

Legend (inyourownmind)
Jul 11, 2018
467
340
63
Is the san mateo mafia still giving out tickets if you park near Tunitas? Covid was the best thing for those local$, private beach for like 3 years now. I miss Chris Isaac and all the renegade beach raves.
 
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