They must be compacts.Or you got long arms.Read the above.
I've owned one car with electronic windows.
In my other 25 years of driving I've only owned crank.
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They must be compacts.Or you got long arms.Read the above.
I've owned one car with electronic windows.
In my other 25 years of driving I've only owned crank.
I'm willing to guess most cars you're riding in aren't even paid off.LOLZ. Never saw it with my parent's cars I drove in high school. Had a 95 Altima that I drove until 2008. Corolla after that until 2014. Since then I've had to drive more for work so I swap them out every 3-4 years.
I get your overall point regarding electronics but it does not seem like a common problem for most people.
I can't recall the last time this happened to me in anyone's car.
LOL - have you ever actually owned a car with crank windows?What if you are on the freeway? Do you really want to exit, pull over, and then get back on? Then get out of the car to deal with the rear windows? .
2010What year is the Honda? That work should be warrantied by the repair shop.
this sh!t is under warranty for like 5 to 10 years in some cases.You're not a Luddite.
You're just not the type who is fixated on silly luxury trinkets.
All of these electronics are very expensive to fix - and that's the idea.
The car companies want to do anything it takes to sell parts.
Last time I bought a car (wife's Honda) it was 3 yrs or 60K milesthis sh!t is under warranty for like 5 to 10 years in some cases.
warranties are better now - but im also coming from the POV of someone who never buys cars. only lease them because the tech changes so often and i like to have the cutting edge sh!t. Ive never even had to replace a tireLast time I bought a car (wife's Honda) it was 3 yrs or 60K miles
Could be the IAC valve sensor.Last time I bought a car (wife's Honda) it was 3 yrs or 60K miles
If I remember most others were similar.
Anyway, time to go clean my MAF - really rough idle in my 2002 and I didn't think I was gonna make it home yesterday - CEL flickering ever few minutes and I think this might actually be a bigger problem but it's worth a shot.
My car is 37 years young! There's environmental value in NOT buyng a new car.I just finished an auto tech class at the local JC. The instructor is an ASE-certified master and the main tech at a local dealership. His comments:
He said this is all heading to lease models to eliminate buy-backs of cars failing early (you will own nothing and be happy). He also said the mfr told them they were going to stop making ICEs by 2035. I sent him a few resources on why this is an impossibility, but why should reality stand in the way of ideology?
- Cars are becoming less-reliable. They're been optimized for emissions at the expense of other trade-offs like reliability and cost-of-ownership.
- *For example, newer 10-speed transmissions are less-reliable than the pre-2016 six speeds which were less-reliable than the 3 and 5 speeds.
- *They're phasing-out V6s in favor of 4-cylinders with turbos, but the turbos cost a lot to repair, must be meticulously maintained, and the engine blocks are cracking because they're not able to handle the peak power demands.
- *cylinder tolerances are being opened to reduce friction between the piston and cylinder, but this is causing a lot more oil combustion. You have to get your oil changed more with the newer cars.
- *Too many electronic controls where they don't need to be such as PWM transmission valves.
- *too many electronics in general. Electronic mfrs in Asia likely won't keep production lines for these electronics open as long as the cars last, so you will have to buy cars more-often.
Cars are going to get older. This has already happened. The average age of a car on the road is up to 13 years from 10 years 5 years ago. You'll probably see some manual conversions and other drastic overhauls to keep older cars running as new ones become too expensive and the price of old ones continues to climb.
Could be the IAC valve sensor.
I disagree that cars are less reliable. Maybe less reliable than cars form the 90s and 2000s, but not the older cars. Most cars from the 50s, 60s, and 70s would never make it even close to 100,000 miles, they just fell apart. If they did last that long it was because they were meticulously cared for. Now, even the shittiest Chevy or Kia can be expected to make it that far and beyond.I just finished an auto tech class at the local JC. The instructor is an ASE-certified master and the main tech at a local dealership. His comments:
He said this is all heading to lease models to eliminate buy-backs of cars failing early (you will own nothing and be happy). He also said the mfr told them they were going to stop making ICEs by 2035. I sent him a few resources on why this is an impossibility, but why should reality stand in the way of ideology?
- Cars are becoming less-reliable. They're been optimized for emissions at the expense of other trade-offs like reliability and cost-of-ownership.
- *For example, newer 10-speed transmissions are less-reliable than the pre-2016 six speeds which were less-reliable than the 3 and 5 speeds.
- *They're phasing-out V6s in favor of 4-cylinders with turbos, but the turbos cost a lot to repair, must be meticulously maintained, and the engine blocks are cracking because they're not able to handle the peak power demands.
- *cylinder tolerances are being opened to reduce friction between the piston and cylinder, but this is causing a lot more oil combustion. You have to get your oil changed more with the newer cars.
- *Too many electronic controls where they don't need to be such as PWM transmission valves.
- *too many electronics in general. Electronic mfrs in Asia likely won't keep production lines for these electronics open as long as the cars last, so you will have to buy cars more-often.
Cars are going to get older. This has already happened. The average age of a car on the road is up to 13 years from 10 years 5 years ago. You'll probably see some manual conversions and other drastic overhauls to keep older cars running as new ones become too expensive and the price of old ones continues to climb.
Could be the IAC valve sensor.
nice. i have the same combo. 5.7 tundy + 4wheel hawk. i've used mine a lot in the past 3-4 years. many miles on terrible washboard roads and offroading through mud and sand and rocks. so happy to have the ability to get away from the sprinter vans and bigger campers. i have had some things break but so far nothing i couldn't repair myself with the tools i had on hand. my truck is getting up there in miles (211k) but i think she has a few trips left in her. i use it for work so I opted for air bags (firestone) over added leaf spring. no issues so far and dialed in to the right pressure it rides well with the camper.I can’t wrap my head around why anyone would prefer manual door locks and windows
just pulled the trigger on a four wheel campers slide in for my tundra. Sleeping under the fiberglass topper was getting pretty cramped with a big dogView attachment 155146View attachment 155147
Awesome. I was a little nervous with the weight on a 1/2 ton but the tundras are pretty beefed up and almost in that 3/4 ton class. I opted for only air bags as well.nice. i have the same combo. 5.7 tundy + 4wheel hawk. i've used mine a lot in the past 3-4 years. many miles on terrible washboard roads and offroading through mud and sand and rocks. so happy to have the ability to get away from the sprinter vans and bigger campers. i have had some things break but so far nothing i couldn't repair myself with the tools i had on hand. my truck is getting up there in miles (211k) but i think she has a few trips left in her. i use it for work so I opted for air bags (firestone) over added leaf spring. no issues so far and dialed in to the right pressure it rides well with the camper.
i bought mine used. I think it's a 2014. pretty much loaded. had to drive to idaho for it but i got a great deal. fridge, furnace, indoor/outdoor shower, etc. it even has a cassette toilet which I've never used and keep threatening to remove. it came with a fancy awning which i ditched after my first trip. i also removed the alum roof rack and installed rails and yakima bars. last year i replaced the two heavy acid batteries with a single lithium ion. i bought an external solar panel after the first trip so i have like 200w which is enough to keep the beer cold and all the rest. the roof top solar is good in the summer when the sun is directly overhead but not so great in the winter when the angle is so low. the external panel is much better in this regard.Awesome. I was a little nervous with the weight on a 1/2 ton but the tundras are pretty beefed up and almost in that 3/4 ton class. I opted for only air bags as well.
did you do a shell model or one of the packages?
Does it matter? My last employer made my car payments for 9 years. My current pays me IRS mileage, which basically covers it. Will probably keep this one for the long haul.I'm willing to guess most cars you're riding in aren't even paid off.
I drive a ton, I've taken several vehicles past 200K and one over 250K.
Thats fine, because that’s ultimately the point of driving a car.People like myself aren't interested in fvkcing with electronics. We're interested in getting from point A to point B and nothing more .
Not sure where this is coming from or what a “conscientious conservative” even means.Also, you seem like the conscientious conservative type, I'm the exact opposite, therefore we probably operate in quite a different circle of associates and one's vehicle often reflects that (unless you're someone who actually has money...in my experience they drive whatever is most economical)
No, because by the time I was driving age they were a relic of the past. I remember on my parents old cars.LOL - have you ever actually owned a car with crank windows?
I can do every window except the right passenger from the driver's seat.
Sure, why not? Why be uncomfortable?You're more the type to run the AC anyway.
I drove plenty of manual cars and yes, I ate at the same time. To say that you can crank all 4 windows at highway speed without some sacrifice in safety is dishonest.This is like the old "You can't eat and drive stick at the same time" bullshit - it just means you haven't had much experience driving manuals.
If you paid for the work, especially at a dealership and the same issue comes up, it should be covered.Warrantied? lol. Like I said, different mindset.
Yea I have the BF ko2’s that are still fairly new so should be good there. Hoping mine will be ready by august. I took over a canceled order.i bought mine used. I think it's a 2014. pretty much loaded. had to drive to idaho for it but i got a great deal. fridge, furnace, indoor/outdoor shower, etc. it even has a cassette toilet which I've never used and keep threatening to remove. it came with a fancy awning which i ditched after my first trip. i also removed the alum roof rack and installed rails and yakima bars. last year i replaced the two heavy acid batteries with a single lithium ion. i bought an external solar panel after the first trip so i have like 200w which is enough to keep the beer cold and all the rest. the roof top solar is good in the summer when the sun is directly overhead but not so great in the winter when the angle is so low. the external panel is much better in this regard.
have you gotten yours yet or is it soon to be?
i think the tundra does okay with the weight as long as you try to pack light. definitely get 10 ply tires and run higher pressure on the hwy. for offroad and soft sand i was running 22 psi last trip and loving it. tempted to get method beadgrip rims so i can run even lower pressure comfortably.
i took the awning off because it was not that useful for winter baja trips. the truck/camper itself provides enough shade with the low angle of the sun. it was just extra weight and after that first trip it was mostly about just taking stock of what things were worth bringing or not. For summer travels i might put the awning back on.Yea I have the BF ko2’s that are still fairly new so should be good there. Hoping mine will be ready by august. I took over a canceled order.
Definitely think a solar panel will be in its future. Right now plan is to reinstall my current awning, put together diy insulation for the pop up section and add a small table (thinking something from the marine industry). I’ve been needing out on diy additions. A lot of people recommend the shell and then adding vs getting an upgraded set up to avoid stuff I won’t need/use and keep weight down.
They put in a furnace, a track system for the racks, did a thermal prep I’ll use to mount my own insulation (theirs is super expensive) and added the jacks to remove it.
why’d you take the awning off?
do boards fit inside easily when it’s not set up?
awesome I appreciate the info. I have a work provided truck now so my personal sits a lot. So it makes the gas a little easier to swallow now that it’s not being paid for out of my pocket most weeks.i took the awning off because it was not that useful for winter baja trips. the truck/camper itself provides enough shade with the low angle of the sun. it was just extra weight and after that first trip it was mostly about just taking stock of what things were worth bringing or not. For summer travels i might put the awning back on.
i can fit a few shortboards inside no problem but i usually bring some longer boards and more than a few. Mpg is pretty bad probably like 12 but i never really do the math. I have a 5 gal jerry can on the back which has come in handy a couple times but mostly for rescuing other people.
The previous owner installed a Lagun marine table which has served us well.