Desperation session today. KH-WH and onshore. Kept expectations extremely low and managed to catch 3 waves that made it worth the hour session. 80 air 70 water
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Sell it to a hipster at a markup now that varial is unobtanium. Then get a nice CI thruster.
Or burn it in the cove.
sounds like me in this am in HB. looked like a couple lefts holding up but by the time i got out, it shifted off that bar and it was a closeout drift a thon. was struggling on the flare tbh. wrong board for all the paddling that i had to do. ultimately went in empty handed cuz it was time for work
That coast is very pretty, but does suffer long flat spells. I can obviously turn on, though.
Surfed the same spot. Plenty of size but it was funky mush burgers for the most part but there were a few steep drops. Found a few reforms. Just a couple guys and my son who’s recently been demoted to dickdragger when it’s big He’s only 12 and has been struggling to get waves when it’s solid. Got him a real sponge and some fins. He surfed all winter and made about 3 waves and was starting to get frustrated. He had a huge smile on his face the whole time.
got a few good waves today before the bald dipshit decided to sit exactly where i was sitting
thats right about when the wind switched to crap it out
thats right about when the wind switched to crap it out
Ventured south again
good times
Taking a car nap
And then round two
life is good
good times
Taking a car nap
And then round two
life is good
Second session was fun! Bonzer egg was a huge advantage
This board has a gas pedal that make is go zoooom
This board has a gas pedal that make is go zoooom
started pretty fun, with tricky positioning
was alone gettin decent waves for maybe an hour
then came the shitstorm of kooks, right as tide got too high as swell was dying. t
took forever to get that crappy wave in
but ive got a few good waves in my memory banks
one left was like a block long, but all i did was pump
was alone gettin decent waves for maybe an hour
then came the shitstorm of kooks, right as tide got too high as swell was dying. t
took forever to get that crappy wave in
but ive got a few good waves in my memory banks
one left was like a block long, but all i did was pump
Surfed down the street around 11am this morning as the tide was still backing out and the wind was still light offshore. No one out, KH-WH: 80 Air 72 Water. Sat and waited for a bit when I first got in, but after about 15 minutes the sets started to show and I managed to get 6-7 fun peelers for about 30 minutes. After that, someone turned the switch off and the waves disappeared and the wind swung onshore.
Saw myself surfing on video for the first time ever. On a friend’s surfline cam rewind thingy after a garbage beach break surf. I’ve heard it always feels better than it looks on film…but i was like “nah, that’s not me, they’re moving so fast…oh, shlt, it is. Hey, i kinda rip!”
making that not so mini simmons look like an OG flyer
Good thing I didn’t see any of the sessions where i surf like a drunk baby giraffe. Quitting while i’m ahead and never watching again.
making that not so mini simmons look like an OG flyer
Good thing I didn’t see any of the sessions where i surf like a drunk baby giraffe. Quitting while i’m ahead and never watching again.
46F water and twenty minute lulls. tide went from flooded, waves barely breaking, to drained and closed out in what felt like the blink of an eye. oh well. at least the weather is absolutely gorgeous.