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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Most north zone of the beach twice in the past week. Last Tuesday looked awful but I drove down anyways, found a couple fun funky wedges that offered some meager headdips and sections to hit. I was sore as hell from the gym and wasn’t moving too quickly.
Today late morning. Getting over a cold but felt good enough and it looked fun enough. Some more funky wedges, chest high. Little head dips, some dumpy sections, some burgered out, all in all pretty fun. After the 3rd or so time I straightened out in knee-thigh deep water I was over gambling any injuries and called it.
Today late morning. Getting over a cold but felt good enough and it looked fun enough. Some more funky wedges, chest high. Little head dips, some dumpy sections, some burgered out, all in all pretty fun. After the 3rd or so time I straightened out in knee-thigh deep water I was over gambling any injuries and called it.
Bunch of log sessions. Time to hop on the shorty tomorrow with this south swell hitting.
Similar.
I was on the beach by my house with my son on Monday and it looked like it had potential, but was getting worse.
Got a window on Tuesday, and zipped down. By 3:00ish it was pretty drained, but some opportunities. It was probably fun in the morning/midday.
I ended up in the same weird north zone. I figured it would be a lot less paddling, and I was right.
It was much more fun than it should've been. Lots of wedgie little rights. Not bad for mid April.
Screwed again, by my optimism. Oside was walled but I paddled out anyways. 1 hour of battling the current, dodging close out sets and getting swept through the pier.
One guy said to me, "there's a couple out there, but you gotta work for it. Water is cold. Current is pretty bad. Kinda walled on the sets. But there's a couple". Yeah... sure guy.
One guy said to me, "there's a couple out there, but you gotta work for it. Water is cold. Current is pretty bad. Kinda walled on the sets. But there's a couple". Yeah... sure guy.
I went down there mid-morning right as the side-shores came up and couldn't rally. I saw one that was rideable but that doesn't mean I'd get it. I went out last evening and it was awful, so my stoke was already low.
I got down there at about 7am. No wind. Good size. Not a lot of people out so I went for it. But it was a mission to get out. Got swept through the pier on the paddle out from southside. Paddled back through and caught 2 waves and went in. It was horrible.
NGL we surf garbage most days. Takes a lot of stoke to stick with it. Other parts of the county are better haha.
Drove north of Point Conception for a surf. Cold water but beautiful sunshine.
Ran into someone I swear must've been from the erBB - which one of you was it? I had my 5'9" Album Insanity with me (and I was thinking I had a 5'10"), now with a quad set up. He talked about having a Bom Dia and and Insanity which he loves as a twin plus trailer. Super nice guy with his dog. Told him I wasn't impressed after my first session on the Insanity. Was hoping this session made me feel better about it.
So session two today - Nope. Still not impressed. Rode it as a quad using Album's made-for-this-board fins and it definitely worked better. But it was just kinda 'meh' to me. Made me miss my CIs. Weird. I really really wanted to like this board and was hoping today would be a huge step forward. Instead it was just a small step in the right direction.
Now for the disclaimers: (1) The guy riding the board is me. 53 years old, 4 shoulder surgeries, a back surgery, and only 1 year out from full shoulder reconstruction. (2) The waves were good sized, but soft-ish. Weird lack of power for this spot. (3) The board made some great late drops when I thought its lack of nose rocker would poke through the trough. Didn't. Rocker worked well. (4) I'm not a quad guy exception super small conditions and/or super big conditions.
So I think I'll weigh the pros-and-cons of keeping it. It's an Album. it's a Varial. It's pristine - except some foot wells already - and pretty. I'd entertain some reasonable DM offers, but other than that, I guess it'll sit in the quiver for at least one more session. But at this point, I'm not attached to it. Someone tell Album Matt to buy it back from me.
-sh3
Ran into someone I swear must've been from the erBB - which one of you was it? I had my 5'9" Album Insanity with me (and I was thinking I had a 5'10"), now with a quad set up. He talked about having a Bom Dia and and Insanity which he loves as a twin plus trailer. Super nice guy with his dog. Told him I wasn't impressed after my first session on the Insanity. Was hoping this session made me feel better about it.
So session two today - Nope. Still not impressed. Rode it as a quad using Album's made-for-this-board fins and it definitely worked better. But it was just kinda 'meh' to me. Made me miss my CIs. Weird. I really really wanted to like this board and was hoping today would be a huge step forward. Instead it was just a small step in the right direction.
Now for the disclaimers: (1) The guy riding the board is me. 53 years old, 4 shoulder surgeries, a back surgery, and only 1 year out from full shoulder reconstruction. (2) The waves were good sized, but soft-ish. Weird lack of power for this spot. (3) The board made some great late drops when I thought its lack of nose rocker would poke through the trough. Didn't. Rocker worked well. (4) I'm not a quad guy exception super small conditions and/or super big conditions.
So I think I'll weigh the pros-and-cons of keeping it. It's an Album. it's a Varial. It's pristine - except some foot wells already - and pretty. I'd entertain some reasonable DM offers, but other than that, I guess it'll sit in the quiver for at least one more session. But at this point, I'm not attached to it. Someone tell Album Matt to buy it back from me.
-sh3
borrowed my buddies DK twin fin swallowtail yesterday and went to a local beachbreak that looked fun, first wave I popped up and had my foot too far back and went through the swallow tail as I late dropped on a right did the splits with the board right up in me as I was going down, I swung my left arm up over my face and head super fast and the board clocked my foot. cold water and smashed foot, it was painful. when I paddled back out I was sitting outside and as the foot pain subsided the shoulder pain raised to an alarming level. I tried to get through it and surfed for another hour and actually got some fun waves, but back on the beach it was painful and I couldn't get out of my front zip because my shoulder was so jacked. drove home in my wetsuit and got out of it in my outdoor shower. last night it was super painful to move my arm laterally across my chest. just got back from Kaiser, no fractures or dislocations but can't put my arm across my chest laterally. pretty painful, out of the water for a while, the curse of the creator of the surf journal continues. #tiki idol brady bunch
read a fishing report last night saying water in between oside and san O has been around 55
Yeah... it's chilly. I'd say 58-60. I wore a short arm on sunday when I saw Casa. I lasted about 40 min. lol. But it wasn't bad.read a fishing report last night saying water in between oside and san O has been around 55
3 weeks+ of no surfing, as we were away in Yurp. Had 4 good point sessions in the week since returning, with today easily the biggest at 2OH. Surfed like a complete turkey, then redeemed myself the last hour.
A bit bumpy from the sideshore, but powerful and uncrowded, so no complaints.
A bit bumpy from the sideshore, but powerful and uncrowded, so no complaints.
Lowers is such a sh!t show, but the cams make it look so inviting!!
No problem getting sets with your 2% Surf sticker on your boar, bro!
Technically, lowers is San Diego County... those 2%'ers from OC can stuff it.
ventured south.
The **** wind died, swell picked up and I had a blast. Absolutely exhausted now.
The **** wind died, swell picked up and I had a blast. Absolutely exhausted now.