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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Strong offshores with surprising strong gusts. Punchy hh peelers.
Rode the 7’2 pintwin. Low crowd with mostly regular's.
Lucked into some set waves in front of the boys. It is icing on the cake to paddle back out and see the disgruntled looks while being asked, ‘where did that come from?’
the rides were weird, easy to get in and down the face but there was so much wind and chop in the pocket that is made finding the barrel and setting the rail difficult. So no barrels but a couple turns with sunny warm air conditions. The water is cold.
Rode the 7’2 pintwin. Low crowd with mostly regular's.
Lucked into some set waves in front of the boys. It is icing on the cake to paddle back out and see the disgruntled looks while being asked, ‘where did that come from?’
the rides were weird, easy to get in and down the face but there was so much wind and chop in the pocket that is made finding the barrel and setting the rail difficult. So no barrels but a couple turns with sunny warm air conditions. The water is cold.
Seems we’ve already started the summer doldrums here on the EC. I’ve surfed knee to thigh high waves every morning this week with no real size increase in the forecast. Oh well, I guess something is better than nothing.
I’ve been riding the Bullet as a quad with MF larges up front and AM quad rears and it’s been a great combo in the small stuff.
I’ve been riding the Bullet as a quad with MF larges up front and AM quad rears and it’s been a great combo in the small stuff.
I took the kids to the beach for a few minutes and waded into the water. Fucking freezing.
North of SF. Cold AF (not quite ice cream head ache, but close). First waves in two weeks! Small, shallow, wedges, pretty shitty, but considering the lack of surf it was All TIme.
A fantastic auto-correct is what it is.
Along the lines of stonk and boars.
Untyped swells are the best because no one hears about them in advance.
Don't you have a leash string you need to re-tie?
love me a good untyped swell.
today was not such a swell. crowded by my standards but mostly local boys. leftover wind chunk but calm winds and a solid amount of energy coming in compressed sets. not every wave was a good one but there were some nugs to be had. got a few that nutted up and ran long enough for a few turns. best wave was probably a mutant double up barrel that offered a big, open view and a little travel time before sending me to the bottom for a bit of a thrashing. rode the 6-5 driver round tail w/ sharpie L fins and was pretty stocked.
80F on the beach but the water can't be more than 47-48F. I need new neoprene, head to toe. lasted about 1.5 hours before I got cold.
today was not such a swell. crowded by my standards but mostly local boys. leftover wind chunk but calm winds and a solid amount of energy coming in compressed sets. not every wave was a good one but there were some nugs to be had. got a few that nutted up and ran long enough for a few turns. best wave was probably a mutant double up barrel that offered a big, open view and a little travel time before sending me to the bottom for a bit of a thrashing. rode the 6-5 driver round tail w/ sharpie L fins and was pretty stocked.
80F on the beach but the water can't be more than 47-48F. I need new neoprene, head to toe. lasted about 1.5 hours before I got cold.
surfed windy beachbreak chasing the waves of untyped swells past
now I get drunk and post dumb sh!t here
now I get drunk and post dumb sh!t here
[QUOTE="Aruka, post: 3999405, member: 27151"
80F on the beach but the water can't be more than 47-48F. I need new neoprene, head to toe. lasted about 1.5 hours before I got cold.
[/QUOTE]
normal may water temps with sept weather. i'll take it cept for the flock of random sheep descending on it from fuk knows where. waters been crystal clear btw.
80F on the beach but the water can't be more than 47-48F. I need new neoprene, head to toe. lasted about 1.5 hours before I got cold.
[/QUOTE]
normal may water temps with sept weather. i'll take it cept for the flock of random sheep descending on it from fuk knows where. waters been crystal clear btw.
Yeah the only hope I see on the horizon is that Google and Microsoft calendars both insist that after May, June, July, August, September and October, it'll finally be November again in five months and three weeks.
Something to look forward to is better than nothing to look forward to!