First north swell of the season and it was wrapping around the point all proper like for the first time in months, and with some size. Light wind and a relatively mild crowd.
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
rode the flare at the desperation sand bar. some lines coming through but the sand was so bad. still, always a good time on this boar.
seemed to get groomed a bit as the day went on but wow it’s weekend levels of crowded during peak hours.
seemed to get groomed a bit as the day went on but wow it’s weekend levels of crowded during peak hours.
we need a couple of healthy swells to move the sand around. desperately
I slummed it up in OB this morning at first light. Surprisingly fun. I dont think I have surfed Avalanche in 8 years. Maybe 10.
yesterday got a couple but not really worth mentioning. the seal following me was
today i actually got a few with like 5 turns and felt the feeling of ripping again
ps: i repositioned the rear fin boxes on my dwart (closer to rail) and it absolutely surfs better now
today i actually got a few with like 5 turns and felt the feeling of ripping again
ps: i repositioned the rear fin boxes on my dwart (closer to rail) and it absolutely surfs better now
surfed twice today,which isn't a usual thing for me anymore, rode the keel fish mid morning when I had a window, then added some volume and surfed the kenson twinzer 7'2 this afternoon, waited for sets and picked out some good long ones, water got warmer for second session too.
Nice work. Yeah, R. typically likes those quad rears closer to the stringer.
pics?
Afternoon low tide sesh at the best sandbar around. Head high sets. Lotta young rippers trying to crack the lip and boost end section airs. The right was really fast, so had to takeoff and gun it. Got one really good one. Crowd was kind of aggressive, but I have long arms and dad strength, so more of a nuisance than a problem for me.
baby curls do a terrific job at strengthening the upper half.
Kettleball swings with the baby are fun for everyonebaby curls do a terrific job at strengthening the upper half.
the start of july.....is seemingly as lame as teh rest of this year has been for me. need surfneedsurfneedsurf
Looking forward to my east coast trip. This weekend and early next week looks pretty good.
glassy warm beach break today, barely breaking but breaking. gave it an hour on the keel fish.
I had images of small NCSD on the mind for this week. Alas, sick kids and low motivation hav cancelled those plans.
There are waves out front, but family time has my windows pretty meager.
I had a window around mid day and went for it. The tide was swamped and there were some decent burgers to be had, but then closeouts that would clean out the outer bar, and a rip that was half ab lock wide, made for some mental math that didn't provide much ROI.
I went south a 1/2 or so and thought I saw a smaller, but cleaner left in a zone I've never really surfed, but often drive by on the way home. I paddled out, it had potential, but the incoming tide swamped it out. I caught three, pretty much bottom tur' ned to nothing, and came in. I was happy to get wet, but the feeling of " man, if the tide was lower and the wind stayed light...
Then a friend sent a video from this afternoon and it was kinda pumping.
There are waves out front, but family time has my windows pretty meager.
I had a window around mid day and went for it. The tide was swamped and there were some decent burgers to be had, but then closeouts that would clean out the outer bar, and a rip that was half ab lock wide, made for some mental math that didn't provide much ROI.
I went south a 1/2 or so and thought I saw a smaller, but cleaner left in a zone I've never really surfed, but often drive by on the way home. I paddled out, it had potential, but the incoming tide swamped it out. I caught three, pretty much bottom tur' ned to nothing, and came in. I was happy to get wet, but the feeling of " man, if the tide was lower and the wind stayed light...
Then a friend sent a video from this afternoon and it was kinda pumping.
The wind has been onshore here 15-25mph since last Wednesday. Been jonesing to get in the water, so I gave it a shot yesterday morning and it was definitely not worth the effort. Head high drops that fizzled out to nothing. Tried it again this morning because it looked more manageable with less wind, but 10 minutes after I paddled out a squall line came through and the wind was all over it again FML. Not sure what's worse...when it's dead flat and you know for a fact you can't surf, or when there's waves, but it's so sh!tty that it's not worth paddling out for, but you do it anyway.
Pretty much prime conditions today and everyone knew it. Hell, Surfline is still calling it pretty good. Sunny, light offshore to no wind, ssmedium West swell. I even had trouble parking down the street. Unfortunately there was a bit too much tide. I counted at least 50 guys in a block, spread out burgery with a side of double up on the inside bar block. I drove to check down the beach on a prayer, only to land back where I started. I took way too much board out because guys were talking about the current and there were a lot of soft takeoffs where I figured I wouldn't mind the paddle power.
I got 3-4 waves in an hour and pretty much bottom turned once on each of em, so it wouldn't have mattered if I was on a shortboard or a step up. Not much gold to be had. They either shouldered off or closed out. Too much water for the swell to do much more than cap on the outer bar, then wall up and close out on the inner bar. It looked like down the block a bit had a few smaller, decent ones when I was getting out. I'd imagine if you had 2-3 hours you'd find something worthwhile. A friend said he got a few fun ones after I got out. It'll probably be fun this afternoon/evening. It might have gotten better with a touch MORE water. Who knows. You either lucked into a moment when your bar worked or you didn't.
My highlight was paddling back out after a closeout and duckdiving two in a row that doubled up on my head. The first one looked bigger and it shot me straight up and through the back. The second one pushed the nose down and kept me there, pretty much face down down until I nearly touched the bottom and came to the surface feet first. Nothing great but it sure is a beautiful day. It's nice to see the NW wind stop after 6 months.
I got 3-4 waves in an hour and pretty much bottom turned once on each of em, so it wouldn't have mattered if I was on a shortboard or a step up. Not much gold to be had. They either shouldered off or closed out. Too much water for the swell to do much more than cap on the outer bar, then wall up and close out on the inner bar. It looked like down the block a bit had a few smaller, decent ones when I was getting out. I'd imagine if you had 2-3 hours you'd find something worthwhile. A friend said he got a few fun ones after I got out. It'll probably be fun this afternoon/evening. It might have gotten better with a touch MORE water. Who knows. You either lucked into a moment when your bar worked or you didn't.
My highlight was paddling back out after a closeout and duckdiving two in a row that doubled up on my head. The first one looked bigger and it shot me straight up and through the back. The second one pushed the nose down and kept me there, pretty much face down down until I nearly touched the bottom and came to the surface feet first. Nothing great but it sure is a beautiful day. It's nice to see the NW wind stop after 6 months.
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Beautiful morning, wind still light near noon. Small South swell on a fullish tide in the thigh to gut high with a couple chest high walls. Rode the 6-2 bat tail basalt twinzer. Made a couple turns and paddled a bit