Surfed out back this morning to avoid the weekend kookfest at the popular spots. Fun CH, low tide lefts & rights on the Moonstone. 60 degree air, 80 degree water felt amazing!
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
surfed my favorite spot the past couple of days. thursday was pretty solid. i missed the morning session but the winds stayed light and when I got up there midday the wave was still doing it. talked my buddy into paddling back out for a quick one. rode the 6-5 driver which felt great but almost a little small on the bigger sets. the waves were really moving down the bar and the current was ripping. you'd get like 2-3 turns, kick out and it'd be a 5-10 min. 200 yards paddle uphill back to the peak. i got less than 10 waves but they were all good. final wave was my best, it just kept going and offering up sections until i was way past the normal end section. so glad to get a really good session here because the bar could be gone after this coming storm.
same spot yesterday but way smaller. my buddy didn't bring a small wave board so he passed and i paddled out alone on the bomdia with low expectations. there were some lulls but when the waves came I had my pick. got like half a dozen chest high nugs. the board felt great. didn't surf for long but was glad i paddled out.
same spot yesterday but way smaller. my buddy didn't bring a small wave board so he passed and i paddled out alone on the bomdia with low expectations. there were some lulls but when the waves came I had my pick. got like half a dozen chest high nugs. the board felt great. didn't surf for long but was glad i paddled out.
Couple wacks on the Plasmic at the Harbor. Board felt so twitchy compared to the long, heavy boards I've been mostly riding, even with BMT fins in there. Started to get the feeling back after a couple. Such a spicy craft, always adding a little extra whip and release on turns. Got up in the lip and threw the tail out on a backside snap. Wasn't trying but the board went there. More of that would be nice.
Can we please get a shortboardable wave in Encinitas please?
Can we please get a shortboardable wave in Encinitas please?
1/7 meh sh!t surf, ocean was alive baitballs. Birds and dolphins
Sitting there waiting and a small waves pops up by me. Some younger guy aggressively sprint paddles over to the peak calls me off and then eats sh!t on the take off.
I asked him why he called me off just to eat sh!t and not catch the wave. He didn’t want to reply, I even asked him a second and third time to make sure he heard me.
. Hoping for better waves soon
Sitting there waiting and a small waves pops up by me. Some younger guy aggressively sprint paddles over to the peak calls me off and then eats sh!t on the take off.
I asked him why he called me off just to eat sh!t and not catch the wave. He didn’t want to reply, I even asked him a second and third time to make sure he heard me.
. Hoping for better waves soon
OB was about as small as it gets this weekend.
Surfed out front Saturday morning and Sunday evening on a 9'9".
I got a couple fun, little lefts in the morning. A few had a little pocket on them. It's kind of a Speed Shape more than a "log", so it goes well when it's locked in and trimming rather than mowing in the flats like some more grovelly tail draggers.
Sunday afternoon was higher tide, windier, and dribbly. Wifey went for a run and met my 18 month old and I on the sand afterward. I suited up and got a couple awful little waves right in front of him. When he sees surfboards he points and says "Daddy!" I closed out the afternoon by I tossing him on the board and we bellied some whitewater in together as my wife watched on trying not to freak. He was hyped. Good times.
Surfed out front Saturday morning and Sunday evening on a 9'9".
I got a couple fun, little lefts in the morning. A few had a little pocket on them. It's kind of a Speed Shape more than a "log", so it goes well when it's locked in and trimming rather than mowing in the flats like some more grovelly tail draggers.
Sunday afternoon was higher tide, windier, and dribbly. Wifey went for a run and met my 18 month old and I on the sand afterward. I suited up and got a couple awful little waves right in front of him. When he sees surfboards he points and says "Daddy!" I closed out the afternoon by I tossing him on the board and we bellied some whitewater in together as my wife watched on trying not to freak. He was hyped. Good times.
Fall conditions have arrived and it is epic out there. Very tough to focus on work on a day like this.
But oh how my loins yearn for some real swell. It's flatter than an A-cup out there.
But oh how my loins yearn for some real swell. It's flatter than an A-cup out there.
IIRC these early NW tend to hit Nor Cal pretty good. SHould be any time for ya
LOL I just checked OB Cam. That'd be in the 90th percentile overall in Florida, 95th percentile by size. Most years, the bulk of the Summer we won't get waves half that size.
west california buoy currently 16.3ft@14.7sec
down from 19.0ft@13.7sec a couple hour ago.
maybe contestable by mid-morning.
we shall seeSwell built quickly yesterday afternoon.
It was breaking on the inner bars, and the north end had some wedgie corners in the early afternoon.
3-4 hours later (5-6PM) it was starting to hit the outer bars and had doubled+ in size.
This morning, the "light wind and clean conditions" Surfline was teasing folks with are a massive washing machine of a mess.
Santa Cruz is probably fun
It was breaking on the inner bars, and the north end had some wedgie corners in the early afternoon.
3-4 hours later (5-6PM) it was starting to hit the outer bars and had doubled+ in size.
This morning, the "light wind and clean conditions" Surfline was teasing folks with are a massive washing machine of a mess.
Santa Cruz is probably fun
Damn, it's kind of big today. Yewwww.
But messy out there. Have to wait and see if that wind shifts to side/offshore by 10am. My heart skipped a beat when I saw lines of whitewater at the reefs.
But messy out there. Have to wait and see if that wind shifts to side/offshore by 10am. My heart skipped a beat when I saw lines of whitewater at the reefs.
Such a great feeling to see swells coming in!!!
hope everyone gets some the next couple days. Little slow and swampy here but have a spot in mind for later
hope everyone gets some the next couple days. Little slow and swampy here but have a spot in mind for later
OB cam looks like an asswhoopty paddle out.
Santa Cruz cams look fun and I saw some underneath ones go unridden. I was tempted to screenshot it. Like seeing a Snowy Owl on the SoBe Miami cam.
Santa Cruz cams look fun and I saw some underneath ones go unridden. I was tempted to screenshot it. Like seeing a Snowy Owl on the SoBe Miami cam.
I am happy. 3 hour session on the abominable wax job single fin. Could have ridden a much smaller board but the crowd was thick!
Frothy frothy
Snack time and then back out there for evening
Frothy frothy
Snack time and then back out there for evening
mid morning window, grabbed a bunch of little waves and it was sunny and nice out. I sat inside of the small group and caught everything they missed. felt good.
Fun waves at several little shell beach reef spots today. Solid overhead. So crowded...everyone is starved for surf