*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
413
958
93
Schrödinger's swell this morning

Flat, flat, flat eerily flat ------ DOUBLE OVERHEAD PLUS CLEANUP SET
Flat, flat, flat, even flatter, slightly darker black flat ------- DEATH

Fun times. It's so easy to surf when it's like that
 

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,742
3,648
113
SoCal
Had a good session this morning with my new hobby of driving my surfboards around in my truck. Saw some nice cars, some nice looking joggers, cool stop lights. 2006 tundra did the trick again, got me there and back without breaking down.
Come up to NOC this weekend and get some ;)
Screenshot_20230915-095721.png
 
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Goofy_Footed

Nep status
Jul 31, 2016
646
1,530
93
Fun chunky/windy Hurricane Lee swell at everyone's favorite spot here lately. I prefer these types of days as it really thins out the crowds. 10 dudes in the water today vs. hundreds and hundreds every other day this week when it was cleaner. I won't go down there when it's like that.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,356
21,907
113
The Bar
The sandbar tide window was good but fleeting. Wave in front had a few people out but looked like crap. Looked in a different direction, seeing peeling hollow left lines, and no one on it. Obvious. Two others joined me but plenty of waves to go around. But it was erratic and inconsistent so you had to really be in the right spot, which was ever-changing. But there were some damn fun waves rolling through for that hour or so.

I don't have the patience for south swells. I'd rather take sets on the head and dodge bombs than wait around through lulls, end up taking some windswell wave that's more promising than most and then be just barely out of position for the actual south set that comes in. Zero discipline. :roflmao:

I ended up getting an OK wavecount but it took near 3 hours to do it. Incoming tide really put a da mper on it for a while, got very inconsistent but I got some really fun lefts, blew a couple good ones stupidly, slithered in and out of a tight little barrel off the takeoff on one, tossed a bit of water around here and there, overall well actually it was a frustrating day.:roflmao: But did get a nice lined up left at the end with dropping tide (finally) that connected all the way to inside, got 3 or 4 good turns in while working it all the way to the sand. Well, I bogged 10 feet away and oafed it but I walked out of it damnit.

Just sitting there at one point, see a left peak forming that looked semi-promising when two seals from nowhere overtook that wave from behind, skimmed right down the face beeline towards me, down under me, 90 degree turn and back out to sea.

Well then.

If they were trying to ditch a shark, that wasn't very nice.

And for the record, seals skimming onto a wave are nowhere near as graceful as dolphins and they go a LOT faster. I'd never seen that before and I did not particularly enjoy that. Especially since it blew any chance I had at that wave. :drowning:
 

Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,653
8,141
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Surprise session. It's been horrible the last few weeks, and I needed to get wet. Wind was on it but it looked doable. Nobody out and a consistent peak was peeling left and right. The lefts stood up longer. Took out the 7'2 twin just to deal with the junky conditions and rising tide. Chest high+ w/ a some push. Turned out to be an empty lineup for a couple hours with a reliable bar that kept giving. Long Cheater 5's in the pocket left and right all morning.:)
 

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,816
3,345
113
The sandbar tide window was good but fleeting. Wave in front had a few people out but looked like crap. Looked in a different direction, seeing peeling hollow left lines, and no one on it. Obvious. Two others joined me but plenty of waves to go around. But it was erratic and inconsistent so you had to really be in the right spot, which was ever-changing. But there were some damn fun waves rolling through for that hour or so.

I don't have the patience for south swells. I'd rather take sets on the head and dodge bombs than wait around through lulls, end up taking some windswell wave that's more promising than most and then be just barely out of position for the actual south set that comes in. Zero discipline. :roflmao:

I ended up getting an OK wavecount but it took near 3 hours to do it. Incoming tide really put a da mper on it for a while, got very inconsistent but I got some really fun lefts, blew a couple good ones stupidly, slithered in and out of a tight little barrel off the takeoff on one, tossed a bit of water around here and there, overall well actually it was a frustrating day.:roflmao: But did get a nice lined up left at the end with dropping tide (finally) that connected all the way to inside, got 3 or 4 good turns in while working it all the way to the sand. Well, I bogged 10 feet away and oafed it but I walked out of it damnit.

Just sitting there at one point, see a left peak forming that looked semi-promising when two seals from nowhere overtook that wave from behind, skimmed right down the face beeline towards me, down under me, 90 degree turn and back out to sea.

Well then.

If they were trying to ditch a shark, that wasn't very nice.

And for the record, seals skimming onto a wave are nowhere near as graceful as dolphins and they go a LOT faster. I'd never seen that before and I did not particularly enjoy that. Especially since it blew any chance I had at that wave. :drowning:
sea lions. theres been a couple teenagers down that way this past week making a rukus.

and i agree. gave it a couple hours early. looked promising given the grade a conditions but fml was it slow and took almost no tide push to kill it completely for me.

i hate south swell. such a teasey fickle bitch. wake me when the hype machine puts a color code on one. until then im not getting up until the npac starts rumbling
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,356
21,907
113
The Bar
On top of Friday's frustration session, apparently also pulled whatever that muscle is along the left side of my ribs. More or less went away but reaggravated it towards the end of today's session.

Oh well. But actually was a really fun sesh. Was highly uninspired while checking it as it was smaller and crowded with SUPs and even a foiler. Bizarre. But with the alternative being not surfing, easy choice to make. Found a peak to myself with temporary interlopers. Low-medium tide was serving some peeling rights and wedgy lefts. Got slotted on more than a few, some closed out or just zippered too fast but there were a lot of fun waves which came in. Despite some lulls, still had a high wave count in the 2 hours and change I was out for.

Definitely stocked I paddled out. I had a trio of waves towards the end when I was thinking about out that were gutless piles of sh!t that I surfed poorly and I was not pleased. Luckily I didn't have to wait too long before one of the last lefts before high tide took over came straight to me. Slotted off the drop, cut back into it once I accelerated out of that before it pinched and worked it until wave just had no more oomph right before the sand in about thigh deep water. Perfect because I had to take a monster leak at that point.