Drove down this morning. Red tide, cold, drizzly, and dogshit surf. Pretty much just took the boards for a ride in the truck.
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
paddled out mid mornign and it was bumpy lumpy but def'ly more size than the wknd. chest+ on the sets. first 30 mins kinda sucked then the wind stopped, the tide dropped, and these clean glassy peaks started rolling in. combo swell goodness. got one wave where i got a bottom turn with my hand touching the water and got a nice top turn then repeat. last wave, shoulder high wall, some longboarder paddled over and tried to backpaddle me so I stuffed him and had this clean perfect glistening wall in front of me and i laid into one of the best fs roundies in ages, tagged the foam, pump to the inside and smack the end section. best wave in a long fking time. sometimes u win.
edit: nice cigar and a coke on the drive home to trigger aruka
edit: nice cigar and a coke on the drive home to trigger aruka
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Jeez. Slow your roll. Going all CocaineBear on the drive home seems dangerous in that OC traffic.
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Been a very ordinary Summer/early Autumn here. Plenty of really small days. Very little action on the points. I've been waiting months for a hernia operation. Got the surgery date for the 28th. Swell filled in today. I'll be 4 weeks or more out of the water during recovery. Said to wifey as we walked back to the van today after a pre-surgery consultation at the hospital I will be surfing my weasely black guts out for the next week and a half.
Wow. Well excuse me for caring about the long term health and well being of my dear friend.
Logged jsut to get out and paddle. Actually had fun 4/7
Went straight from a crown fitting at the dentist this afternoon (thank god for nitrous). Saw one guy out and it looked better than it has in days... by that I mean: waist to stomach high, onshore, dumpy with a few possible ragged corners. Short stop-start rides, mostly just a chunky drop, maybe a turn or two. The left was probably lining up slightly more, but of course I continued to force the right. Even when I could string together a section and manage a cutback or slash, it was pretty tough to bridge the gap through the middle of the break to connect to the inside half of the wave. Frustratingly close a couple times. Also a lot of lumps and steps in the face- tripped me up a few times. After about 10 min of two of splitting waves, 5 more guys paddled out. Ah well, plenty of choppy peaks for everyone.
DA Superchunk caught everything I paddled for and was fun and skatey despite the crap conditions. Hard to tell if it's the boar design or the lightweight CF build (or combo), but man, the boar seems to react so quickly that it's almost like I have more time to decide what to do than usual. A few times after standing up or a finishing a hack, the chunky onshore conditions would kinda hold me up at the top of the wave, almost creating a split-second pause... before I would stomp the front foot down and zoom back down. Not sure if I'm describing it right, but it's happened a couple times before on this boar, and it seems an unusual (almost awkward) move.. but also feels kinda rad to initiate that turbo boost of speed. I dunno kept things interesting. Boar is spicy.
DA Superchunk caught everything I paddled for and was fun and skatey despite the crap conditions. Hard to tell if it's the boar design or the lightweight CF build (or combo), but man, the boar seems to react so quickly that it's almost like I have more time to decide what to do than usual. A few times after standing up or a finishing a hack, the chunky onshore conditions would kinda hold me up at the top of the wave, almost creating a split-second pause... before I would stomp the front foot down and zoom back down. Not sure if I'm describing it right, but it's happened a couple times before on this boar, and it seems an unusual (almost awkward) move.. but also feels kinda rad to initiate that turbo boost of speed. I dunno kept things interesting. Boar is spicy.
What are the dims on that crown? Porcelain build, team light?
Bro. Gotta go custom. “The Dentist” doesn’t even upcharge me for tweaking dims from stoke model. What a sucka!
It will be bright white to start but I’m pretty sure I can add some pizza stains later
Spent all of last week in N NSW, surfing clean HH to OH Point and thumping beach break. Crystal clear ~75F water, bright sunshine, clean offshores. Thank you FR and crew for having me. (Very hard not to look at real estate ads and plan and scheme).
First surf at home yesterday. Paddled the 8'0 15min to the inner sandbar and caught two average waves before paddling another 20min against a strong rip to the outer sandbar, where I caught another two average waves. Back to the inside, where the rip was now even stronger, to catch one more average wave. 1.5hr of paddling, 5 meh waves, one solid workout.
First surf at home yesterday. Paddled the 8'0 15min to the inner sandbar and caught two average waves before paddling another 20min against a strong rip to the outer sandbar, where I caught another two average waves. Back to the inside, where the rip was now even stronger, to catch one more average wave. 1.5hr of paddling, 5 meh waves, one solid workout.
Same springtime slop as yesterday but bigger and punchier. Terrible shape and lumpy closeout sets. Rode the PunkSanity but not much could be done with what was on offer. Lots of duckdiving. Got some exercise I guess.
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Surprisingly fun morning at the beach. It was OH but fat, and I hope zero to low expectations, but it was a friendly, social surf, and there were some fun, long walls.
Water is WARM!
Edit: Here's some average waves at home. https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-odds-are-in-your-favour/176884
Water is WARM!
Edit: Here's some average waves at home. https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-odds-are-in-your-favour/176884
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Took a two week surf trip at the end of March into April and scored almost every damn day.
meh, some size and got worked on a few but mostly closeouts. roll to dump on the inside. hh+ sets was surprising. ci m18 ftw. pretty much an old duuuz shortboar. got a couple new boarz planned out for summer quiver.
had a decent session yesterday, Waves were much better than expected. Good little bar. Surfed the abominable wax job single fin but feel like I could have made a fish work.
Also no cigar on drive home due to Aruka health shaming me haha
C-grade SC reef/point this AM (which was D-grade mostly today). Still, no crowd, a beautiful sunny, chest high and relatively calm wind wise day compared to the straight garbage i've been mostly lucking into for weeks. didn't check but first peek, what's this, a someone working one over, smooth roudhouse, blue board, yup JKB ripping it up per usual!
Been trying to weed out some of the quiver and today was last chance for Mandala quad fish(due to stiff turning), actually expecting wasn't going to get a good chance but low and behold i got one almost all the way, in the open faced felt drivey and positive of top and bottom, a round house and a few carves on that one, a couple so so tweeners and then got an inside nug had a nice soft lip waiting, hit and right into another closeout lipper. was stoked but very cold so called it, but She's a keeper.
Been trying to weed out some of the quiver and today was last chance for Mandala quad fish(due to stiff turning), actually expecting wasn't going to get a good chance but low and behold i got one almost all the way, in the open faced felt drivey and positive of top and bottom, a round house and a few carves on that one, a couple so so tweeners and then got an inside nug had a nice soft lip waiting, hit and right into another closeout lipper. was stoked but very cold so called it, but She's a keeper.
Pasted from the Album thread:
I just got back from a weeklong trip in Costa Rica (Playa Guiones and Playa Grande). I brought my Lightbender (winged) and Twinsman but ended up riding the Lightbender the whole time with a set of Shapers AP 5.59s. The waves were fun but nothing epic...mostly stomach to head high with some slightly overhead sets at times. Basically average for there, but would be best days ever at my local. Long rippable walls with some steeper and some mushy sections and the occasional section to blast.
The Lightbender was the perfect board for these conditions. It cruised through the mush with ease and still held when laying into a steeper face or section. I’ve also come to realize the Shapers AP 5.59s are my current new favorite fin for the Bender and the Plasmic. They have yet to do me wrong. Was able to get some nice full wraps in tight/steeper sections with no slippage.
LB dims: 5'4" x 19.75" x 2.32" (about 29L)
My dims: 5’10 160 lbs
I just got back from a weeklong trip in Costa Rica (Playa Guiones and Playa Grande). I brought my Lightbender (winged) and Twinsman but ended up riding the Lightbender the whole time with a set of Shapers AP 5.59s. The waves were fun but nothing epic...mostly stomach to head high with some slightly overhead sets at times. Basically average for there, but would be best days ever at my local. Long rippable walls with some steeper and some mushy sections and the occasional section to blast.
The Lightbender was the perfect board for these conditions. It cruised through the mush with ease and still held when laying into a steeper face or section. I’ve also come to realize the Shapers AP 5.59s are my current new favorite fin for the Bender and the Plasmic. They have yet to do me wrong. Was able to get some nice full wraps in tight/steeper sections with no slippage.
LB dims: 5'4" x 19.75" x 2.32" (about 29L)
My dims: 5’10 160 lbs
Fun wave here this morning. Chest high and offshore. Surfed a little over two hours with no gloves and hood for the first time this year. Always noteworthy when you can start shedding some of the rubber.