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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Rode the moonie today in waist-chest dumpy onshore beach break and had a blast. We’re in a low tidal coefficient phase currently which can turn the high tide sandbar out back into a frustrating mess of quick suck up closeouts and never ending rip currents. Dealing with these conditions on a “normal” boar usually ends in a disappointing session BUT one of the reasons I ordered the moonie longer and with much more volume than I normally ride was to hopefully overcome the challenges of surfing during these types of coefficients.
The board excelled. Getting into waves early is key in these conditions and it did so without hesitation. It also cruised through the rips like a hot knife through butter. It’s just so easy to ride and turned what would have been a super frustrating and disappointing session into a fun one where I left with a smile on my face.
The board excelled. Getting into waves early is key in these conditions and it did so without hesitation. It also cruised through the rips like a hot knife through butter. It’s just so easy to ride and turned what would have been a super frustrating and disappointing session into a fun one where I left with a smile on my face.
What a change. Hell paddle to heavenly surf.
New swell this morning - 8ft @16sec (edit: 10ft @17sec - just checked the buoy), low tide, E/NE winds. Perfect for my fave spot, but currents can mess with it something awful.
Saw great waves from the hill, and plotted my path out through the whitewater. Got absolutely smashed and dragged about 1km off course, before the rip let me go and I could paddle to the outside peak. Only took 45 min, hehe.
Anyhoo, once there conditions were perfect and waves sizey - easy 2 x OH++. Very happy to be on the new 8'0 Keogh for the paddle, and fcuk it went good. Was joined by 4 jet ski crews, which was a pain in the arse, but still got a fcukton of waves. Best I've had that spot for a year.
Only just dragged my old carcass back up the hill and home to a late breakfast.
New swell this morning - 8ft @16sec (edit: 10ft @17sec - just checked the buoy), low tide, E/NE winds. Perfect for my fave spot, but currents can mess with it something awful.
Saw great waves from the hill, and plotted my path out through the whitewater. Got absolutely smashed and dragged about 1km off course, before the rip let me go and I could paddle to the outside peak. Only took 45 min, hehe.
Anyhoo, once there conditions were perfect and waves sizey - easy 2 x OH++. Very happy to be on the new 8'0 Keogh for the paddle, and fcuk it went good. Was joined by 4 jet ski crews, which was a pain in the arse, but still got a fcukton of waves. Best I've had that spot for a year.
Only just dragged my old carcass back up the hill and home to a late breakfast.
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clean this AM but hard to find corners that stayed open. Panda rocket fish with CC keels hauling down the line. water is a teeny bit warmer.
Same spot today, and a slightly easier paddle. Waves still firing, but much smaller than yesterday. Still OH, though, so on the 6'10 DS. One good sand-sucking barrel.
Shoulders/back absolutely cooked now.
Shoulders/back absolutely cooked now.
Surfed the past 2 dawns on the Sakal Sabre with C-drive twins in wonky, sectiony waves
in the stomach-hh range. Not good conditions to feel out anything well, but the combo felt sorta spicy on a couple decent lefts. Felt like good drive off the bottom or pumping high across the face and pretty playful for the few old man gutbacks I could manage. So far, so good.
in the stomach-hh range. Not good conditions to feel out anything well, but the combo felt sorta spicy on a couple decent lefts. Felt like good drive off the bottom or pumping high across the face and pretty playful for the few old man gutbacks I could manage. So far, so good.
Surfed the past couple of days on my standard thruster. My arms and shoulders feel like they haven't surfed much, which is true. Not bad, but the sand situation has destroyed almost every peak on the beach except one or two.
Scored 6-8 solid Sunzal yesterday and today and boy are my arms tired. glad i packed a stepup - i needed every inch. 6'4 b12 such a fun wave and the only spot down here holding at the moment beside Punta Roca. you only really need a few of these waves to make the trip worth it.
last wave today top of the point. bogged turn coming off the bottom, fell - took the next 6 waves of the set square on the dome while people on weaponized longboards were skipping down t he faces out of control right at me. refusing to ditch because were almost a 1/4 mile out to sea - i got legit rattled and went in with my tail tween my legs more exhausted than i might have ever been from surfing. didnt even dukdive once yesterday and then this.
not even joking surf schools pushing people into BOMBS on wavestorms. ive never seen anything like it anywhere else.
last wave today top of the point. bogged turn coming off the bottom, fell - took the next 6 waves of the set square on the dome while people on weaponized longboards were skipping down t he faces out of control right at me. refusing to ditch because were almost a 1/4 mile out to sea - i got legit rattled and went in with my tail tween my legs more exhausted than i might have ever been from surfing. didnt even dukdive once yesterday and then this.
not even joking surf schools pushing people into BOMBS on wavestorms. ive never seen anything like it anywhere else.
btdubs - mizata -amazing camp. waves are kinda sh!t imo. only had one session here all week, first day chest high kind of fun but its a weird point. .over head high and entrance and exitt are fkn hairball. havent seen anyone paddle out here since monday. guess they pulled a body out the caves here 2 weeks ago.
Went down to a sandbar that's been fun the past week or so. today was a lot more closed out but there were still a few nugs out there.
been alternating between two 5'9" fishes that are wildly different from one another. Kinda fun to feel out the differences.... but mostly realizing i'm becoming princess and the pea pod with my boards.
been alternating between two 5'9" fishes that are wildly different from one another. Kinda fun to feel out the differences.... but mostly realizing i'm becoming princess and the pea pod with my boards.
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