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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,757
12,337
113
in da hood next to paradise
fun af today. got about 15 waves in 1.5hrs. long peeling rights 50 yards a piece 2-3 turns per and then a shuffle forward and trim to the beach. waist to occasional chest high and soft but perfect. wtfo could do no wrong. got a couple good wraps that were satisfying and couple hits. 54 deg water. cigar and coffee on the drive home. life is good!
 
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B

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,309
4,717
113
Had a really fun little session in front of the house Easter Sunday right as the tide came off the low. I drifted about a block south and kept swinging into little, glassy, running walls in the sunshine.

I took the the longboard down because it looked waist high and dribbly on the cam, but it turned out to be chest high on the sets- fun and playful, crowded, but I didn't need the bombs. There were some sick sections to be had, and I didn't do much more than stand there and go straight, but after a week plus of the worst illness I've experienced in 6+ years and mom, toddler, and 1 year old going through the same, it was honestly about all I could imagine myself doing.

Today I woke up mildly hungover and fogged in.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,426
113
San Diego, CA
Havoc said:
fun af today. got about 15 waves in 1.5hrs. long peeling rights 50 yards a piece 2-3 turns per and then a shuffle forward and trim to the beach. waist to occasional chest high and soft but perfect. wtfo could do no wrong. got a couple good wraps that were satisfying and couple hits. 54 deg water. cigar and coffee on the drive home. life is good!
Click to expand...
Ugh. still pretty flat down here bro. Supposed to get a small bump tomorrow. will see. Might have to give your stumps WTFO a go
 
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Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,053
4,561
113
Innzid
Day two in Aus (FR's hood). Good point surf x 2, but a little slow and crowded. Surfed a thumping beach break 10k south, and got some gems and my arse kicked.

I'm not a good beach break surfer, but boy it's a good feeling knifing into a heaving teepee. Less so peeling your carcass off the bottom.

Beautiful weather and pristine, clear water.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,426
113
San Diego, CA
By the time I got out, wind had come up a bit. Looked terrible but turned out pretty damn fun on the DA superchunk. it is a magic carpet. 15 guys out, so mostly stuck to the inside reef for some WH wedgy rights. Drifted outside by the end and snuck a couple CH crumbly runners behind the peak. Boar stuck everything (concave deck feels glued to my feet) and connected slow wonky sections no one else was making. Stocked to get in the water after a couple weeks.
CB4FA499-E4B5-455A-9C57-2FFEF29BFD9A.jpeg

Edit: was going to ride Havoc’s mid WTFO, but didn’t want to risk scratching it up since I knew I’d be surfing the inside over 0.1’ tide reef. Had some close calls on the SC and used my beater T1 rastas just in case.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,426
113
San Diego, CA
Caught between waiting out the morning drained tide and wanting to get out before the wind got too bad. Pulled the trigger for a quick 25 between meetings in lumpy bumpy onshore CH peaks. I figured the DA might be too lightweight for the wind and chop, so rode PU plasmasym. Probably the right call. Caught a bunch of short wedges in between constant dugdiving. Flat rocker didn’t fit too well in some of the dumpier lumps, so I fell a few times. Did manage to find one “set” wave where the first and second sections held off breaking and let me race down the line for a decently long ride. Water was chilly and brown grey and it was also overcast and misting. Meh.
 
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