Break in the rain and wind today, conditions were good, solid overhead, offshore, but just absolutely relentless with only one potential channel to south of where I check it. Things have been tough lately so trying to surf whenever I can right now. I knew that current was ripping but paddling out 50 yards north of the channel wasn't anywhere near close enough. My first attempt, I knew I was in trouble when I was leaving a huge wake just standing in waist deep water. 300 yards and 5-10 minutes later, screw that, rode one in and walked way back up the beach.
Took a lot of effort and still got yanked a long way down the beach before I could finally break through, wave gods nice enough to grant a 60 second lull. I was stocked to get out the back in the first place since I gave it about 50-50 odds. I can't imagine why no one else was out. Fucking hell. Really hard to get into waves, funny it was only a 12 second period, felt like 18-20 with the amount of water moving. Thick. On the inside, it might as well have been 5 and that was every bit of fun as it sounds.
After taking a breather and making the long paddle back to the peak I wanted to sit on, a nice left popped up. Took the long drop straight down, squared off the bottom, and set up a nice little line for a while until right met it from other side. Managed to make it back out relatively unscathed. So all things considered, I at least got one under my belt. That was a cause for celebration in itself. I really should have stayed picking off the smaller but still well overhead lefts instead of getting greedy and going for the big rights coming off the main peak. Wasn't out there too long until a meaty right with a long wall bullied towards me. Barely made the late drop and section dumptrucked on me. Was the last wave of the "set" but not a hope in hell of getting out the back again and current was taking me for a long ride. Got a reform in so at least there was 3 but holy hell. I guess you could call it exercise.