This afternoon was a perfect glassy lb kind of session. It was small and clear and I saw a couple of stingrays as I was riding through the inside. My last wave I bellied in until my fin hit sand and then flipped the board over and washed in until I was 10 feet from the shore. I think I might have a new phobia
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Break in the rain and wind today, conditions were good, solid overhead, offshore, but just absolutely relentless with only one potential channel to south of where I check it. Things have been tough lately so trying to surf whenever I can right now. I knew that current was ripping but paddling out 50 yards north of the channel wasn't anywhere near close enough. My first attempt, I knew I was in trouble when I was leaving a huge wake just standing in waist deep water. 300 yards and 5-10 minutes later, screw that, rode one in and walked way back up the beach.
Took a lot of effort and still got yanked a long way down the beach before I could finally break through, wave gods nice enough to grant a 60 second lull. I was stocked to get out the back in the first place since I gave it about 50-50 odds. I can't imagine why no one else was out. Fucking hell. Really hard to get into waves, funny it was only a 12 second period, felt like 18-20 with the amount of water moving. Thick. On the inside, it might as well have been 5 and that was every bit of fun as it sounds.
After taking a breather and making the long paddle back to the peak I wanted to sit on, a nice left popped up. Took the long drop straight down, squared off the bottom, and set up a nice little line for a while until right met it from other side. Managed to make it back out relatively unscathed. So all things considered, I at least got one under my belt. That was a cause for celebration in itself. I really should have stayed picking off the smaller but still well overhead lefts instead of getting greedy and going for the big rights coming off the main peak. Wasn't out there too long until a meaty right with a long wall bullied towards me. Barely made the late drop and section dumptrucked on me. Was the last wave of the "set" but not a hope in hell of getting out the back again and current was taking me for a long ride. Got a reform in so at least there was 3 but holy hell. I guess you could call it exercise.
Took a lot of effort and still got yanked a long way down the beach before I could finally break through, wave gods nice enough to grant a 60 second lull. I was stocked to get out the back in the first place since I gave it about 50-50 odds. I can't imagine why no one else was out. Fucking hell. Really hard to get into waves, funny it was only a 12 second period, felt like 18-20 with the amount of water moving. Thick. On the inside, it might as well have been 5 and that was every bit of fun as it sounds.
After taking a breather and making the long paddle back to the peak I wanted to sit on, a nice left popped up. Took the long drop straight down, squared off the bottom, and set up a nice little line for a while until right met it from other side. Managed to make it back out relatively unscathed. So all things considered, I at least got one under my belt. That was a cause for celebration in itself. I really should have stayed picking off the smaller but still well overhead lefts instead of getting greedy and going for the big rights coming off the main peak. Wasn't out there too long until a meaty right with a long wall bullied towards me. Barely made the late drop and section dumptrucked on me. Was the last wave of the "set" but not a hope in hell of getting out the back again and current was taking me for a long ride. Got a reform in so at least there was 3 but holy hell. I guess you could call it exercise.
Offshore and rainy 25mph with gusts up to 50 (per Surfline) head to OH-with some stormy grunt, mostly blind takeoff down the liners, took out the Andreine Vaquero as it was the heaviest and best paddler I had with, plus wasn't much of a day for turns. Just a handful of guys out. Friken blast! just had to remember not to look into the wind, raindrops like needles!
Took my neighbor to the local kook spot bc she doesn't surf so well. After 10 minutes I watched some beginner on a minimal take off, go straight and run over some poor bastard 20 feet in front of him. Mr. Minimal dragged himself out of the wreckage and got mad at the other guy for getting in the way. Blamed his dinged up board on him. Apparently Mr. Minimal has not yet discovered that surfboards can be turned and trajectories adjusted.
Gotta love this sport.
Gotta love this sport.
Prior to the arrival of the rain, couple friends from Hueneme were down so we went down to a local low tide reef spot and it was glassy with some inconsistent good sets and just a few bobbers making it look like a pack, let my friend borrow my 7'2 kenson mid life twinzer and I rode the 5'10 pleasure pig but then after an hour and some we switched and I enjoyed the extra volume as I was getting a little tired and grabbed some outside sets all the way across. The highlight was ripping apart a long right on the ppig in front of my old elementary school mate and doing an extended floater by him and then bottom turning around the section and racing the next 25 yards with a full roundhouse. 3 sessions in a row without getting stung by a stingray. winning! Now I am setting up the dogs in the family room with some loud mariachi music so they don't freak out from the lighting and thunder while we are all at work/school.
In the city missing east winds and 10 ft swell at home.
Was padding out the other day and some older guy on midlength caught a decent wave, with plenty of face to move around, and he screams, "GET THE FUCK OUT OF MY WAY!!", at me and the other guy near me paddling out.
If you can't turn I guess you have to scream.
Weak short-period swell, and only shoulder high, but very clean conditions and a beautiful morning. Surfed the offshore sandbar and had a ball on my dinged-up old 7'2 Mid Strength. Get your feet in the right spot and that 50L lump of foam feels like it's on ball bearings and will carve and turn on a dime.
All the waves backed off into deeper water in the end, so setting a hard roundhouse cutback while the wall still just had some oomph was the aim.
Nobody else around. Looking forward to a solid ground swell, but this will do for downtime kicks.
All the waves backed off into deeper water in the end, so setting a hard roundhouse cutback while the wall still just had some oomph was the aim.
Nobody else around. Looking forward to a solid ground swell, but this will do for downtime kicks.
today was pretty awesome for southbay. called in sick - two super fun sessions. large, and hollow and uncharacteristically glassy all day. also the coldest day this year for sure. booties came on, winter is here for us wimpy socal folk. actually got the opp to bust out the grinder to for the first time in forever. great day to be a "sick" surfer in LA.
Been some really good days around here. Even managed a double session last week, which is a rarity for me. Had some great sessions and memorable waves
dogshit waves in the zone i surfed. lots of waves and size but almost all would roll then detonate on the inside bar as a nasty closeout. worst sesh of the year for me. didn't even get 1 decent ride. should've waited another day or two for things to settle down.
Finally some fun waves on the Twinsquish. Offshore beach break with light drizzle. Good times.
The boomers are taking over...Was padding out the other day and some older guy on midlength caught a decent wave, with plenty of face to move around, and he screams, "GET THE fook OUT OF MY WAY!!", at me and the other guy near me paddling out.
If you can't turn I guess you have to scream.
Yesterday was surfing a very much *non* kook spot. Heavy wave that jacks up fast and smashes onto shallow reef. An older gentlemen paddled out on a 8 or 9' McCoy. He was sitting in front of the lineup and I was freaked out a bit, thinking about a cleanup set snatching that board and sending it hurtling into the lineup like a weapon of mass destruction. I left shortly afterwards.
Stormy weekend with the beach break 15 feet of victory at sea. That left one spot in town surfable -- bowly left point wave with a very small, sketchy takeoff zone dominated by a crew of locals. I usually sit on the shoulder of the pack, waiting for someone to take off too deep on a wide one. Managed to grab one and get a couple of wacks before making the looong paddle in..
Today, found some inside bar wedges in the afternoon. Rode the 6'1 Traveler with Hess keels and a little trailer. Felt way more sensitive to foot placement than the quad, but I managed a couple decent turns with my back foot over the raked part of the fin. Fun surf.
Today, found some inside bar wedges in the afternoon. Rode the 6'1 Traveler with Hess keels and a little trailer. Felt way more sensitive to foot placement than the quad, but I managed a couple decent turns with my back foot over the raked part of the fin. Fun surf.
I was wondering if the sand was good over there.
The tide and dad duties had me write it off.
This morning will be good. The last few afternoon/evenings looked fun on the cam, but wifey has been too burned out to open an evening surf window.
Hoping for some opportunities this weekend , despite the awful forecast.
bigger than expected on the sets but there were long lullz and the smaller ones were really rolly. bars are jacked and would let u into the wave right as it was throwing out. water was 57 and air 50. coldest so far this year. my new stamps roswell can knife in super easy compared to my wtfo's that would feel sketch on anything above waist high. got a couple turns and sensations i haven't had in ages. very hp boar it is. stocked!
We had a crazy storm last week. Winds up to 80pmh and so much rain. Now its clear but everything is frozen and the sun barely hits my clearing for a few hours in the middle of the day. Been scrambling to get out of here. Leaving for Baja in the morning. Forecast looks tiny down there and for pure surf I may be better off staying home but Im over the cold and this is the only window I have to leave so Im taking it. Peace out homies
December has been a bust in SoCal. Hard to motivate when its 40