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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,786
23,644
113
Tower 13
surfed a different bar and had to wait awhile for the good ones but I got a 1/2 dozen rippable rights on the spark plug. Board felt great despite a couple of twin fin hiccups. I can't help but think this bore would be insane as a quad.

T knox fins haven't left this board pretty much since I first tried them

IMG_5097.jpg
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,024
17,491
113
San Diego, CA
silentbutdeadly said:
surfed a different bar and had to wait awhile for the good ones but I got a 1/2 dozen rippable rights on the spark plug. Board felt great despite a couple of twin fin hiccups. I can't help but think this bore would be insane as a quad.

T knox fins haven't left this board pretty much since I first tried them

View attachment 143203
Click to expand...
Hmm. maybe twinzerize it?
 
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Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,801
12,439
113
in da hood next to paradise
silentbutdeadly said:
surfed a different bar and had to wait awhile for the good ones but I got a 1/2 dozen rippable rights on the spark plug. Board felt great despite a couple of twin fin hiccups. I can't help but think this bore would be insane as a quad.

T knox fins haven't left this board pretty much since I first tried them

View attachment 143203
Click to expand...
add a trailer box
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,024
17,491
113
San Diego, CA
pretty slow late morning on the draining tide. Met @tedshred5 at local reef as it looked the best of options around. Got a couple rights in the first 20 that lined up a bit for a couple fs wraps. Plasmic w/ SOC twins did well. Probably could've gone in after that because I didn't get anything better. Pretty long lulls, a few more quick ones that fizzled out after the drop, and missed a lot that looked like they might stand up... but just rolled under. Crowd got worse as the waves got less consistent. Got a couple more inner insiders and called it a day.

Got to try his 5'8 Arakawa firecat (slot channel quad) and it's crazy how well the foam is hidden on that along the stringer with thin rails. Didn't get a nice long wall to to really test it, but could feel nice squirts of speed even from the take off. Nice boar and quality craftsmanship.

Pretty nice conditions and I was just warm enough in 2mil full as long as I was not sitting too long. It is nice to be able to wear a thinner suit.
 
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tedshred5

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,788
6,559
113
See above post-
Met @oeste858 at his reef for a rare (for me) midday session. Dropping tide, sets looked fun earlier on, got lullier as it went on. Wanted to be respectful since it’s not my normal zone, so I sat off the peak to try for a few rights that swung wide. Got a decent one early on and another that Oeste called me into…EA Firecat quad is nimble on an open face. Swapped boars for a few and oeste’s Varial plasmic felt like a lifeboat in a good way, paddles around the lineup like a champ. Got hungry, so paddled in and caught an insider that ran and called it a day.

Classic post-surf meal:
A72E2C91-386C-4E33-AC29-6020813CA865.jpeg
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,171
23,130
113
PNW
it's been storming for days. getting cabin fever. hopefully tomorrow I can get a session in to test some new black friday fin loot.
 
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need 4 speed

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,714
3,630
113
SoCal
Roper's, they glass boards for Stu (probably $75-100)
My mains are @6 3/4" I'm a 80's back foot driver
Check the Twinsman I'd bet they're near 7"
 
G

grg

Phil Edwards status
Mar 11, 2006
5,903
1,210
113
Tuna Town/Baja
silentbutdeadly said:
surfed a different bar and had to wait awhile for the good ones but I got a 1/2 dozen rippable rights on the spark plug. Board felt great despite a couple of twin fin hiccups. I can't help but think this bore would be insane as a quad.

T knox fins haven't left this board pretty much since I first tried them

View attachment 143203
Click to expand...
I had a similar issue with my Stamps. Had it made as a quad and couldn't get to work with the 4-5 sets I had. Was ready to just write it off until I had Tim add a Center box. First was a twin with trailer set and right away the board came alive and rode it for good while like that. He also sold me a Tri Set put in the other day and it was even better. Complete dog as a quad and way more fun with 3
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,786
23,644
113
Tower 13
nice. to be honest I think it's me more than anything. I think to remedy the situation I would just need to devote more time to riding the board but I don't really want to. When I'm in sync it rides great with no hiccups but being used to riding quads and thrusters, then going to this board (and any twin really), my muscle memory isn't always there.
 
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Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,707
2,345
113
Oceanside, CA
Borrowed a friend’s Harley Ingleby MOE for the past two sessions and enjoyed it. Super easy to surf, can trim along from center and whip it around or hit a lip off the tail. Was basically surfing just like HI.
 
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B

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,361
4,771
113
bluengreen said:
First surf after a long work week that included stomach flu ravaging my family. Got out there for the sunset sesh. Mid-day was pumping, but the swell had come down by late afternoon, and I ran right out to nearest bar after parking rather than heading further south where it looked a couple feet bigger. Ended up finding a decent right peak and getting a couple quick high and tight pocket rides and a good wrap. Thereafter stuck on a right ledge that bent out to sea and grew into a bigger wall coming straight at it. Wonk, long lulls, and growing chill could not dampen the sublime sunset -- a neon slab of clouds smeared across the sky for miles. Got my last one in as the moonlight started reflecting off the water. Yew!
Click to expand...
Sounds like you did well for yourself.
I waited out the highest of the tide and surfed around 11. It was fat but getting less fat. I thought I wsaw a few soft runners just south of the mid zone and could not figure out what board to ride for the life of me. I ended up paddling a longboard out just to manage expectations. As soon as I paddled out, some sets came, but there were long lulls. I got pulled south and realized I should've grabbed a shortboard and surfed the main peak. Some good, fast, runners, some closeouts. Good from far..

Surfed for an hour. Pretty lackluster. Pilot error. Sunset was indeed a good one.
 
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