***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

[Havoc]

way bigger than expected. seems like both a long period north and long period south. long waits between sets but when they came it was a blast. my wtfo keel was holding the drops on the hh sets surprisingly well. got a bunch of long rights and lefts. last wave was an easy glide in and then a steep wall. so fun! crowd got ultra thick as everyone seems to be off starting today. glad i got some before the hordes. happy holidayz fakas!

 

[Woke AF]

Second or third day in a row, I think.
1st- rode the 6'3 w/ tknox twins. Junky wind swell a few waves but really cold and frustrating.
Yesterday- 7'2 Ledge w/ C-drives nice clean conditions long period swell w/ some plus sets. Overall frustrating. Did some great mind surfing while caught inside on the bigger sets. Beautiful waves but you had to be super lucky to be in the right spot. Side shore drift w/ strong rips out to sea. Was a bitch, Snagged a few fun ones but watching the outside bombs peel off top to bottom was hard.
Today- similar to yesterday but more consistent. Easier to be in the spot. A little more crowd than yesterday but not a problem.
Rode the 7'10 Andrieni pocket rocket for the paddle power. Got some memorable bombs, lefts and rights. So glide-y and highlines are clean. Some big wraps, sprayed a buddy and pulled into a barrellete on the inner bar.
Surfed out w/ permagrin for a while.

 

[Swallow Tail]

shacked

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Decided to give the wounded wrist a go seeing as the forecast looks bad and I'll be out of town.

Surprisingly bigger than expected and the wrist did pretty good. 6'1 mitsven, a little overkill but worked just fine. Felt good to get back in the water.

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

Had a late start to the work day so I was able to squeeze in a 50 minute dawn patrol.

Started out kinda bummed while I was checking it. After really fun looking waves on the cam for the last few days and a deteriorating forecast for the weekend, it looked smaller and weaker than I anticipated and the mid tide wasn't helping. I thought there would be a little more leftover. After almost getting hit by a car running the red light on the highway, debating on checking it further down the beach, considering going back home to swap boards, I dropped anchor and headed out at the typical spot down the street from my house.

As it turns out, Despite it being small, crowded, and getting burned on a good one by a girl (I probably would've gone too, but I was a little bummed) 1-2 waves made it totally worth it. Dawn Patrol complete.

 

[Mr Doof]

Wednesday was great. 5 ft at 17 seconds, offshore. Maybe longest ride of the season.

Thursday was small but still darn good. 4 ft at 14 seconds, fading with longer waits between sets. offshore goodness. Am beginning to feel like I am back in surf-shape/

Today was knee to waist high leftovers with rocket induced noctilucent clouds as I left the the house....I think the rocket induced noctilucent clouds put me in a good mood that influenced how nice I thought the surf was.

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

Wednesday was great. 5 ft at 17 seconds, offshore. Maybe longest ride of the season.

Thursday was small but still darn good. 4 ft at 14 seconds, fading with longer waits between sets. offshore goodness. Am beginning to feel like I am back in surf-shape/

Today was knee to waist high leftovers with rocket induced noctilucent clouds as I left the the house....I think the rocket induced noctilucent clouds put me in a good mood that influenced how nice I thought the surf was.

I saw the clouds over my house in the morning and thought they were cool. Paused to take a pic but didn't like the composition so I kept moving. I didn't know they were anything special.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

fun grovel session in the cold. Was in the lucky spot of the rotation and got three good set waves. Full on hipster mode on the mitsimmons. such a great board.

 

[b.r.]

Beautiful lb session mid day after getting the tree. Sitting in the jacuzzi in the sun now waiting for the kids to get home from work and then we will decorate the tree. Usually don’t really ride the long board much during the winter but conditions demanded the foam.

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

Surfed the log today. It was really small, but had a good time.

 

[Maz]

Another nice session at the big offshore sandbar, making it two weeks straight of surfing it. Max crowd 2. Shoulder high to slight OH and soft like all of the last week, so the Mid Strength got another outing. Water has suddenly warmed up to 70F+, so I was cooking in my short leg.

Stopped at Ray Finlay and talked boards on the way home, and that predictably made me covet a ton of them. He makes some very nice boards, and liked my idea for a Wayne Deane inspired 7'6.

http://instagr.am/p/Ca8CYO3hkbv/

 

[PRCD]

 

[Sam_K]

Way offshore at the bombie, just three of us floating in the open ocean with unlimited space. Still, Mr. Minimal finds a way to run over the tail of the other dude's brand new surfboard. Nearly cut the last three inches of the board off. Minimal bro disappears and me and other guy curse him. The dude was so bummed out about his board, so much non-stoke going around. Then a big set came and either snapped his leash or ripped the tail fully off and he had to go swimming for his board.

Felt bad for the guy, but on the other hand I had an awesome time surfing the biggest waves we've had in weeks. Also, the photographers on the cliff got it on photo and you can clearly see that Mr. Non-stoke paddled right the fuck in front of Minimal bro as he was taking off. Mr. Non-stoke too scared to take a wave on the head? Dunno, but it does change the picture of who was at fault.

 

[SeaFoamGreen]

We had a crazy storm last week. Winds up to 80pmh and so much rain. Now its clear but everything is frozen and the sun barely hits my clearing for a few hours in the middle of the day.

Frozen in the costal banana belt? Damn. Was 50s costal up here last week and pumping. Might of had my best sessions locally in quite some time. Cold and meh this week thou. Heading east to ride white wave. Happy trials and safe travels.

 

[Aruka]

Frozen in the costal banana belt? Damn. Was 50s costal up here last week and pumping. Might of had my best sessions locally in quite some time. Cold and meh this week thou. Heading east to ride white wave. Happy trials and safe travels.

Cheers, good luck in the pow. Flat as hell down here but I wore shorts today so Im pretty stocked.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

3 days in a row checking but not surfing. pulled twin out of truck and dropped it dinging the tail. FML. Out of town till next week and it looks like the winter swell train is about to start up.

 

[oeste858]

3 days in a row checking but not surfing. pulled twin out of truck and dropped it dinging the tail. FML. Out of town till next week and it looks like the winter swell train is about to start up.

Wait. Whose twin?!?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

don’t worry it was mine

 

[MathDebater]

3 days in a row checking but not surfing. pulled twin out of truck and dropped it dinging the tail. FML. Out of town till next week and it looks like the winter swell train is about to start up.

One of my coworkers is leaving the day the swell rolls in for a surf trip that is currently looking skunky. The surfers of socal thank you for your sacrifice.

 

[oeste858]

@silentbutdeadly that stinks. Maybe an excuse to have Roper add canard plugs?

One of my coworkers is leaving the day the swell rolls in for a surf trip that is currently looking skunky. The surfers of socal thank you for your sacrifice.

I too am leaving Friday for two weeks trapped in suburban PA with my passive aggressive drama queen MIL and nice guy /poor bastard FIL.
You’re welcome. Hope you can get some on the AO.