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Mushy weird waves despite the offshores. Burgers on the outside but not reforming into anything surfable on the inside. First session back in booties was a shocker. Feet kept hitting the board in all the wrong places. Basically forgot how to surf. A session to forget.
I was at Rivera around 9:30. Riding a Hess, but NOT oversized! My boards are the right size, FYI This was a bladed-out 6'1. I was thinking a glider or speed shape would have been the best board choice out there.Similar story here.
Saw a guy with an oversized Hess (I mean, I saw a few but I digress) get out this morning around 8:50 down the street. Was that you?
Surfed the North end of the Southern end. Or the Southern end of the mid zone. IDK. It's the end of my street.
But yes, capping outside into mostly A frames with no wall or closeouts with the rising tide. backing off and not really reforming into much. There was a little more action inside as I was getting out and I paddled back up north a block or two, but really frustrating. Glassy(ish), swell, just wrong tide. Might be fun now, actually. Wind looks lighter than forecasted. I should've motored around on a step up just to get in position, but rode a shortboard and didn't get much.
u just crushed the hopes and dreams of all the covid era adult learnerspumping today. beautiful swell and winds. sunday crowd out in force but they mostly sucked and none of them lasted long in the freezing water/air combo.
i traded an old Album for a basically new Mid6 and I've ridden it the past couple days. twin trailer felt good in the smaller conditions yesterday. today i went quad and it felt like a little too much fin maybe. i did start to figure it out midway through the session and ended it on a string of good waves but i'll probably try it as a thruster next. it's a strange board and i'm not sure how I feel about it yet. it has a lot of rocker up front which makes it not a very good paddler/wave catcher for a 7-0. feels like it wants a decently steep wave and has very little glide over flat spots. has good hold off the bottom and through turns. definitely not a cruisey shitlength. more of an HP shitlength. construction feels a bit light and chattery for my tastes. i ended up on the wash rock and the board survived it's encounter with the barnacles unscathed, which was nice. overall a really fun session, especially as the swell filled in and the crowd thinned. finally had to call it because my feet were totally numb.
nah man they aren't going anywhere. it's definitely not as bad as it was in like 2020-2021 though.u just crushed the hopes and dreams of all the covid era adult learners
pumping today. beautiful swell and winds. sunday crowd out in force but they mostly sucked and none of them lasted long in the freezing water/air combo.
i traded an old Album for a basically new Mid6 and I've ridden it the past couple days. twin trailer felt good in the smaller conditions yesterday. today i went quad and it felt like a little too much fin maybe. i did start to figure it out midway through the session and ended it on a string of good waves but i'll probably try it as a thruster next. it's a strange board and i'm not sure how I feel about it yet. it has a lot of rocker up front which makes it not a very good paddler/wave catcher for a 7-0. feels like it wants a decently steep wave and has very little glide over flat spots. has good hold off the bottom and through turns. definitely not a cruisey shitlength. more of an HP shitlength. construction feels a bit light and chattery for my tastes. i ended up on the wash rock and the board survived it's encounter with the barnacles unscathed, which was nice. overall a really fun session, especially as the swell filled in and the crowd thinned. finally had to call it because my feet were totally numb.
I was at Rivera around 9:30. Riding a Hess, but NOT oversized! My boards are the right size, FYI This was a bladed-out 6'1. I was thinking a glider or speed shape would have been the best board choice out there.
The Harley one with channels. I dunno much about it other than that. I would never buy a new one but the guy offered it in trade for my 3 year old, dinged up Album Insanity which I don't really ride anymore so I said sure. If I don't ultimately like it it will be easy to sell around here. My knee is still kind of screwed up so I'm mostly riding bigger boards which kind of sucks but I'm just thankful to be out there.The one Harley Ingleby has been pushing or the Firewire? Or are they the same? Thunderbolt, Tolhurst, Firewire... Are they all Cobras?
The Harley one with channels. I dunno much about it other than that. I would never buy a new one but the guy offered it in trade for my 3 year old, dinged up Album Insanity which I don't really ride anymore so I said sure. If I don't ultimately like it it will be easy to sell around here. My knee is still kind of screwed up so I'm mostly riding bigger boards which kind of sucks but I'm just thankful to be out there.
The north end of the middle was basically the same in the evening. Inconsistent, a little bit of bump on it, and breaking pretty far out on the middle bars but not really connecting or doing anything.Similar story here.
But yes, capping outside into mostly A frames with no wall or closeouts with the rising tide. backing off and not really reforming into much.
Absolute bliss this morning, even if the waves were less than stellar.
Lightest offshore breeze, warm air, warm water, and a small swell. Walked down the beach by myself and paddled to an outside sandbar. Caught about 10 waves, soft and only waist to shoulder high, but you got a quick wall then a nice shoulder for a roundhouse cutback. Spent the wait between waves daydreaming about a big wave left down the coast that I'm keen to surf.
Walking back up the beach I saw three other people and a few friendly dogs.
Bro. Did you charge it on the Flare and test out the upper end??annual camping trip to the central coast. waves were small and crappy but got a few on the flare each day. swell picked up and it was pretty damn big as we were leaving. Crazy how it went from knee to waist high to DOH ++ in 24 hours.