Wind swell on the north side of the well-known pier this time. EA Firecat as a quad, with the slot channel, is *chef’s kiss* when the waves don’t have much drive. The air is colder than the water, bros
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Mushy weird waves despite the offshores. Burgers on the outside but not reforming into anything surfable on the inside. First session back in booties was a shocker. Feet kept hitting the board in all the wrong places. Basically forgot how to surf. A session to forget.
Similar story here.
Saw a guy with an oversized Hess (I mean, I saw a few but I digress) get out this morning around 8:50 down the street. Was that you?
Surfed the North end of the Southern end. Or the Southern end of the mid zone. IDK. It's the end of my street.
But yes, capping outside into mostly A frames with no wall or closeouts with the rising tide. backing off and not really reforming into much. There was a little more action inside as I was getting out and I paddled back up north a block or two, but really frustrating. Glassy(ish), swell, just wrong tide. Might be fun now, actually. Wind looks lighter than forecasted. I should've motored around on a step up just to get in position, but rode a shortboard and didn't get much.
pumping today. beautiful swell and winds. sunday crowd out in force but they mostly sucked and none of them lasted long in the freezing water/air combo.
i traded an old Album for a basically new Mid6 and I've ridden it the past couple days. twin trailer felt good in the smaller conditions yesterday. today i went quad and it felt like a little too much fin maybe. i did start to figure it out midway through the session and ended it on a string of good waves but i'll probably try it as a thruster next. it's a strange board and i'm not sure how I feel about it yet. it has a lot of rocker up front which makes it not a very good paddler/wave catcher for a 7-0. feels like it wants a decently steep wave and has very little glide over flat spots. has good hold off the bottom and through turns. definitely not a cruisey shitlength. more of an HP shitlength. construction feels a bit light and chattery for my tastes. i ended up on the wash rock and the board survived it's encounter with the barnacles unscathed, which was nice. overall a really fun session, especially as the swell filled in and the crowd thinned. finally had to call it because my feet were totally numb.
i traded an old Album for a basically new Mid6 and I've ridden it the past couple days. twin trailer felt good in the smaller conditions yesterday. today i went quad and it felt like a little too much fin maybe. i did start to figure it out midway through the session and ended it on a string of good waves but i'll probably try it as a thruster next. it's a strange board and i'm not sure how I feel about it yet. it has a lot of rocker up front which makes it not a very good paddler/wave catcher for a 7-0. feels like it wants a decently steep wave and has very little glide over flat spots. has good hold off the bottom and through turns. definitely not a cruisey shitlength. more of an HP shitlength. construction feels a bit light and chattery for my tastes. i ended up on the wash rock and the board survived it's encounter with the barnacles unscathed, which was nice. overall a really fun session, especially as the swell filled in and the crowd thinned. finally had to call it because my feet were totally numb.
I was at Rivera around 9:30. Riding a Hess, but NOT oversized! My boards are the right size, FYI
This was a bladed-out 6'1. I was thinking a glider or speed shape would have been the best board choice out there.
nah man they aren't going anywhere. it's definitely not as bad as it was in like 2020-2021 though.
the upside of expensive gas.
The one Harley Ingleby has been pushing or the Firewire? Or are they the same? Thunderbolt, Tolhurst, Firewire... Are they all Cobras?
I was at Rivera around 9:30. Riding a Hess, but NOT oversized! My boards are the right size, FYI
It wasn't you, but we probably crossed paths. I saw a few Hess' in the water. The guy getting out was on at least a 7'0"
I thought about taking out the Mini Glider or the Beutz, but now that I can ride a short board again, I really wanted it to be shortboardable. The no leash on the 9'9" sounded like a stretch with the crowd and the mid bar swim.
The Harley one with channels. I dunno much about it other than that. I would never buy a new one but the guy offered it in trade for my 3 year old, dinged up Album Insanity which I don't really ride anymore so I said sure. If I don't ultimately like it it will be easy to sell around here. My knee is still kind of screwed up so I'm mostly riding bigger boards which kind of sucks but I'm just thankful to be out there.
The north end of the middle was basically the same in the evening. Inconsistent, a little bit of bump on it, and breaking pretty far out on the middle bars but not really connecting or doing anything.
But first surf since breaking my elbow a couple weeks ago. Surprisingly, thankfully, arm doesn't hurt during the basic paddle motion, and shallow little duck dives were ok too. Lost all my paddling shape so just paddled around aimlessly getting frustrated. RIght before dark there was the first real set of the new swell -- only head high but a lot more solid long period and like a dozen waves in a row. Getting stuck inside and trying to duck dive where my board got thrashed around a bit, *that* hurt my arm. Not too bad though, doesn't feel like I'm making it worse, from what I've read and heard I just gotta keep using it.
Absolute bliss this morning, even if the waves were less than stellar.
Lightest offshore breeze, warm air, warm water, and a small swell. Walked down the beach by myself and paddled to an outside sandbar. Caught about 10 waves, soft and only waist to shoulder high, but you got a quick wall then a nice shoulder for a roundhouse cutback. Spent the wait between waves daydreaming about a big wave left down the coast that I'm keen to surf.
Walking back up the beach I saw three other people and a few friendly dogs.
Lightest offshore breeze, warm air, warm water, and a small swell. Walked down the beach by myself and paddled to an outside sandbar. Caught about 10 waves, soft and only waist to shoulder high, but you got a quick wall then a nice shoulder for a roundhouse cutback. Spent the wait between waves daydreaming about a big wave left down the coast that I'm keen to surf.
Walking back up the beach I saw three other people and a few friendly dogs.
I woke up early Saturday morning and drove to the primo spot early. Only one car in the lot, and some dude was out behind it taking selfies in front of his license plate in the dark. Bad omen. Walked over the dune and the waves were rifling along a shallow bar and blowing their guts out. All rights.
I scoped a couple other spots down the road and by the time I came back, the lot was full with cars from across the tristate area. No go for me. Later on in the day my buddy said he counted 97 heads in the water when he stopped to watch. I ended up surfing a break that offered up a mix of rights and lefts with only a small local crowd. Got some solid ones on the CI twin pin before calling it after 3 or so hours. Wandered around for a bit and scored a nice afternoon session at a more playful wave that revealed itself as the tide dropped.
I managed to sneak in another session early Sunday morning before the front blew in. Watched the sunrise through the clouds of the gulfstream, as I snagged some chest high rip bowls. The water was filled with bait, and feeding fish. Once the north wind came through it was over. I ran south, only to have the front catch up about 45 minutes later. Bye bye warm weather.
I scoped a couple other spots down the road and by the time I came back, the lot was full with cars from across the tristate area. No go for me. Later on in the day my buddy said he counted 97 heads in the water when he stopped to watch. I ended up surfing a break that offered up a mix of rights and lefts with only a small local crowd. Got some solid ones on the CI twin pin before calling it after 3 or so hours. Wandered around for a bit and scored a nice afternoon session at a more playful wave that revealed itself as the tide dropped.
I managed to sneak in another session early Sunday morning before the front blew in. Watched the sunrise through the clouds of the gulfstream, as I snagged some chest high rip bowls. The water was filled with bait, and feeding fish. Once the north wind came through it was over. I ran south, only to have the front catch up about 45 minutes later. Bye bye warm weather.
Low expectations this afternoon based on a morning surf check. Grabbed the 5”9 plasmasym and headed to a local reef on the dropping tide. I was pleasantly surprised to find classic SoCal autumn conditions with groomed WH peaks running down the reef. Only two dudes out and I pretty much had the rights to myself. About 2 out of 3 would line up through to the inside with wide open faces allowing for multiple figure 8 wraps. Boar is fishy fun and I felt like I was craving it up pretty smoothly. Rasta twins felt good: something playful about that inside foil.
was a conveyor belt of waves for the first 40 min, then stopped for the last 10, so I finally snagged an insider to go in on.
Water was fine for s/s 2mil but air was a bit chilly. Will switch to long sleeve 2mil full
was a conveyor belt of waves for the first 40 min, then stopped for the last 10, so I finally snagged an insider to go in on.
Water was fine for s/s 2mil but air was a bit chilly. Will switch to long sleeve 2mil full
annual camping trip to the central coast. waves were small and crappy but got a few on the flare each day. swell picked up and it was pretty damn big as we were leaving. Crazy how it went from knee to waist high to DOH ++ in 24 hours.
46 degrees this morning. Offshore winds. Got my new board in the water. After being gone 3 weeks. Stoked on how it felt.
Bro. Did you charge it on the Flare and test out the upper end??