Where were you at? couldn’t make it today but yesterday I snuck in an quick 45 minute session from ~10-11 between Noriega and Moraga, couple fun waves for turns and a fun late drop but just ended up burgering on the shoulder.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
2 hour surf this morning. Bit flabby, but OH. Home for breakfast and walking the dog, then back for seconds at the outer bar, then inner bar. Another 2 hours, and A LOT of paddling, but very much worth it.
At work now till 9pm. Zzzzzz....
At work now till 9pm. Zzzzzz....
same spot as yesterday. different peak. inside bowly double up rights wedging next to a mussel covered boulder. total wave machine. paddle back to the rock, wait zero seconds, roll into another 3 turn quarterpipe with the occasional inside tube section, repeat. twigsman was perfect. invited a novice friend to come with me and he kind of struggled to figure it out but then he finally got a good one and was absolutely buzzing about it. my girl got a pic of my first wave before she wandered off with the dog. nothing special but still cool for memories sake.
Couple micro runners at the Rj's yesterday evening, last one mini barrel in the stiff offshore
Only one memorable frontside wave this morning, otherwise pretty micro at the beach break. Should’ve known, from the lack of cars parked before walking down the hill. At least it felt crispy like winter, and clean conditions. Fun new (to me) fin setup in the RNF96:
Best session of the year.
Everything came together for some reason. Was expecting crowd issues but was not a problem cuz the Set Wave Magnet was fully operational. Clean off-shore 4 @ 16 swell. A bit lully and not much in the way of tweener waves but the set waves were glorious.
Rode the 7'2 Twinpin Ledge w/ different fins. Tried the TKnox NVS instead of the upright Albums; they gave a nice spark to the board and lost the stickiness. The tail did get a little squirrely through a choppy midface bottom turn that was sucking out but overall much improved rides.
Internal memory filled quickly, but a few backside bowly overhead pocket tubes that peeled all the way to the beach are saved. Easier to surf that board backside than frontside, probably get my foot back farther more naturally.
The board redeemed itself for speed and a couple of big hacks.
Everything came together for some reason. Was expecting crowd issues but was not a problem cuz the Set Wave Magnet was fully operational. Clean off-shore 4 @ 16 swell. A bit lully and not much in the way of tweener waves but the set waves were glorious.
Rode the 7'2 Twinpin Ledge w/ different fins. Tried the TKnox NVS instead of the upright Albums; they gave a nice spark to the board and lost the stickiness. The tail did get a little squirrely through a choppy midface bottom turn that was sucking out but overall much improved rides.
Internal memory filled quickly, but a few backside bowly overhead pocket tubes that peeled all the way to the beach are saved. Easier to surf that board backside than frontside, probably get my foot back farther more naturally.
The board redeemed itself for speed and a couple of big hacks.
I’m assuming you were south of me, cause the lefts I was seeing down the beach looked incredible. I had more of the repulsion effect of a magnet with set waves today, where I wasn’t, the sets were, and where I went to, the sets weren’t. Only had another short window to surf today but was walking back up the beach kicking myself for not paddling out down there.Best session of the year.
Everything came together for some reason. Was expecting crowd issues but was not a problem cuz the Set Wave Magnet was fully operational. Clean off-shore 4 @ 16 swell. A bit lully and not much in the way of tweener waves but the set waves were glorious.
Rode the 7'2 Twinpin Ledge w/ different fins. Tried the TKnox NVS instead of the upright Albums; they gave a nice spark to the board and lost the stickiness. The tail did get a little squirrely through a choppy midface bottom turn that was sucking out but overall much improved rides.
Internal memory filled quickly, but a few backside bowly overhead pocket tubes that peeled all the way to the beach are saved. Easier to surf that board backside than frontside, probably get my foot back farther more naturally.
The board redeemed itself for speed and a couple of big hacks.
Damn. Doods really liking the Knox twins in albums. May have to borrow a setBest session of the year.
Everything came together for some reason. Was expecting crowd issues but was not a problem cuz the Set Wave Magnet was fully operational. Clean off-shore 4 @ 16 swell. A bit lully and not much in the way of tweener waves but the set waves were glorious.
Rode the 7'2 Twinpin Ledge w/ different fins. Tried the TKnox NVS instead of the upright Albums; they gave a nice spark to the board and lost the stickiness. The tail did get a little squirrely through a choppy midface bottom turn that was sucking out but overall much improved rides.
Internal memory filled quickly, but a few backside bowly overhead pocket tubes that peeled all the way to the beach are saved. Easier to surf that board backside than frontside, probably get my foot back farther more naturally.
The board redeemed itself for speed and a couple of big hacks.
Man, If you put TKnox twins in a blacksheep RNF96 = peak erBB 2022 Q3 !
Would actually be great if someone reconstructed the boar hawtness across the last decade.
im sure there would be some funny trends.
Getting back into it with my still-healing arm being super annoying. Also got fatter in the meantime. Tuesday evening I paddled around but could not catch waves to save my life. Arm hurt a bit while I was trying to stand up -- shouldn't have actually been that bad but it kept psyching me out. Had to bail on pretty small waves because duck dives with the board getting shaken around hurts. Took the beefy bonzer out this evening, at the very end I got two waves that just felt *normal*, finally, like I just stood up and did ok bottom turns. I'll take it.
I snuck out there Thursday afternoon as well. Saw a homie packing up as I arrived around the south central end of the inner great highway. He told me not to go further north. Took my 6'3 CI Twin Pin that morning with Surfline's 5-8 foot forecast in mind (still making rookie errors!). In retrospect, SF buoy pinging around 5 at 15 when I paddled out.
Ran across the GH without giving it much of a look. All I could tell is it was empty, a little onshore, and chunky. Straight out into a pretty tough paddle. Didn't feel like I was making much progress and the outside seemed really far, well, outside. Finally out, some solid sets rolled through just north and outside of me. Okay, still paddling out then.
I was clearly undergunned if I wanted to take off on the peak, so I positioned myself for the shoulder. Got one that smoothed out after the drop and gave me a nice fat shoulder to carve. 10 minutes later, I'm caught inside by a big set. First thought is to try to get over it, but quickly becomes clear that the best I'll do is paddle right into the impact zone, so I sit and let it break 10 yards in front of me. Large wall of whitewater not duckdivable, so I dive down, relax and enjoy a decent ragdolling. Come up, take one more on the head, and I'm washed into the trench with the set continuing to break 75 yards further out. Satisfied with my adversity training, I call it a session. Not like I would have made it back out without losing the use of my arms today.
...and scene!
Ran across the GH without giving it much of a look. All I could tell is it was empty, a little onshore, and chunky. Straight out into a pretty tough paddle. Didn't feel like I was making much progress and the outside seemed really far, well, outside. Finally out, some solid sets rolled through just north and outside of me. Okay, still paddling out then.
I was clearly undergunned if I wanted to take off on the peak, so I positioned myself for the shoulder. Got one that smoothed out after the drop and gave me a nice fat shoulder to carve. 10 minutes later, I'm caught inside by a big set. First thought is to try to get over it, but quickly becomes clear that the best I'll do is paddle right into the impact zone, so I sit and let it break 10 yards in front of me. Large wall of whitewater not duckdivable, so I dive down, relax and enjoy a decent ragdolling. Come up, take one more on the head, and I'm washed into the trench with the set continuing to break 75 yards further out. Satisfied with my adversity training, I call it a session. Not like I would have made it back out without losing the use of my arms today.
...and scene!
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all the surf predicting sites called for a new swell today. it was almost totally flat. the place i used to surf alone pre-covid had 10 guys on it early. looked almost worthwhile if u were guaranteed to be alone....
the beachbreak was shiitty, barely even worth puttin on a wetsuit for
the beachbreak was shiitty, barely even worth puttin on a wetsuit for
Didn't surf yesterday. Surfed out.
I other great news our dog ate my wife's hearing aids. Expensive treat
I other great news our dog ate my wife's hearing aids. Expensive treat