had to get my nails done otherwise i would have
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
Pretty fun again. Same time and place. A little smaller but still some solid sets. Put the MF thruster set in the mid6. Took a couple waves to get a feel for it but I didnt hate the way it felt. Still feels like im kinda figuring it out.
There was a bit of a crowd but I got tons of waves. Lots of inside double up nuggies.
There was a bit of a crowd but I got tons of waves. Lots of inside double up nuggies.
Nice long period energy, just didn't come with enough open faces. Got one that was probably the wave of the morning with multiple turns to the beach. 6'1" mitsven was perfect for the conditions
Quickie at gentlemans hour at the same reef. Slower and fatter than yesterday…. the wave not me, despite my late night Halloween candy binge. Must’ve had 20 Twix, caramel m&ms, milky ways. Ugh.
Only five guys out and it was clean but soft about thigh-waist high. Sat just inside three midlengths and picked off every wave I paddled for. Had one crossover takeoff where I went behind a guy that was already up going left. I could tell he got nervous when he saw me stand up but I had plenty of room to go behind him and then come from around the corner on the right. Ended up being my longest wave too.
Like SBD said above, not many open faces, so on every wave I faded and drew out my bottom turn to kind of manufacture a shoulder to carve up. Some of the smaller ones ran a little bit better. my best wave ended up being my last one backside. It lined up a bit and I got off two hooks under the lip that felt good.
Swapped out the Rastas for Machados in the plasmic asym, and seem to work pretty good. Bit taller/ skinnier and also has that inside foil.
Beautiful morning. No wind so I was practically cooking in two mill Full.
Only five guys out and it was clean but soft about thigh-waist high. Sat just inside three midlengths and picked off every wave I paddled for. Had one crossover takeoff where I went behind a guy that was already up going left. I could tell he got nervous when he saw me stand up but I had plenty of room to go behind him and then come from around the corner on the right. Ended up being my longest wave too.
Like SBD said above, not many open faces, so on every wave I faded and drew out my bottom turn to kind of manufacture a shoulder to carve up. Some of the smaller ones ran a little bit better. my best wave ended up being my last one backside. It lined up a bit and I got off two hooks under the lip that felt good.
Swapped out the Rastas for Machados in the plasmic asym, and seem to work pretty good. Bit taller/ skinnier and also has that inside foil.
Beautiful morning. No wind so I was practically cooking in two mill Full.
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Same recipe and plan as yesterday, but water was a bit colder, and the waves less consistent. Ah well, still got to sit way out to sea by myself and catch a few glassy waves.
Took the big 8'6 DS for the glide. Would have been a primo morning for a proper 10ft+ glider.
Took the big 8'6 DS for the glide. Would have been a primo morning for a proper 10ft+ glider.
Rare double sesh, bros! LOL. Early afternoon 18min micro session. Saw some punchy WH-CH insiders at the reef so wriggled into a sopping wetsuit (not fun). Short wedging rights but enough for a wrap and a slash (or vice versa) before hitting the sand. Got about 10 quick waves. 5’9 plasmasym with Machados again. Stocked.
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How are the balls? Going for one right now.Rare double sesh, bros! LOL. Early afternoon 18min micro session. Saw some punchy WH-CH insiders at the reef so wriggled into a sopping wetsuit (not fun). Short wedging rights but enough for a wrap and a slash (or vice versa) before hitting the sand. Got about 10 quick waves. 5’9 plasmasym with Machados again. Stocked.
Had to mute my phone this morning to avoid the torturous reports from my jobless surf bum friends. East winds and 5@13 swell, a perfect recipe for the open beachies. Sounds like it was all time at a zone that I havent surfed in a while.
Somehow it was still glassy when I got free so I booked it south and found an outside sandbar with rights peeling into a deep channel. It was hard to tell how big it was from the cliff but this spot usually doesnt break unless there is decent size so I figured it was at least head high. It ended up being maybe a foot or two overhead on the sets. Rode the Twinsman for the first time in months. Knox fins. Maybe the best session Ive had on this board ever. Not sure if it was the fins or the waves or just the fact that ive been riding stupid midlengths lately and it was just being back on something shreddy again. Either way, it felt like I had tons of speed and could go wherever I wanted on the face. The wave was so cool the way it would stand up out the back and give you time to get in and start pumping before it began pitching. Not much of an open tube on most of them but they had steep faces with plenty of power. It would run and then slow down but not back off so there was still a good pocket as it chugged along. You could just carve around the pocket, do a couple wrap to rebonds until it stood up again for another fun inside section before it hit the channel. It was super fun even though I barely got an hour in the water before it started getting dark and I had to make the long paddle back around a rocky outcropping and hike back up the cliff to my truck.
Somehow it was still glassy when I got free so I booked it south and found an outside sandbar with rights peeling into a deep channel. It was hard to tell how big it was from the cliff but this spot usually doesnt break unless there is decent size so I figured it was at least head high. It ended up being maybe a foot or two overhead on the sets. Rode the Twinsman for the first time in months. Knox fins. Maybe the best session Ive had on this board ever. Not sure if it was the fins or the waves or just the fact that ive been riding stupid midlengths lately and it was just being back on something shreddy again. Either way, it felt like I had tons of speed and could go wherever I wanted on the face. The wave was so cool the way it would stand up out the back and give you time to get in and start pumping before it began pitching. Not much of an open tube on most of them but they had steep faces with plenty of power. It would run and then slow down but not back off so there was still a good pocket as it chugged along. You could just carve around the pocket, do a couple wrap to rebonds until it stood up again for another fun inside section before it hit the channel. It was super fun even though I barely got an hour in the water before it started getting dark and I had to make the long paddle back around a rocky outcropping and hike back up the cliff to my truck.
First surf after being sick for a bit. Didn't a window until this afternoon when it was pretty windy but figured I might as well get after it. Rode my sh!t length in sh!t waves all by myself for an hour, there were a few diamonds in the rough and I mostly didn't kook it up. Hard to complain!
An hour sounds luxurious. I had a total of 48 min water time over two sessions, 3 hours apart. LOL
I’m sure TMST must’ve felt lively after surfing your midlife6 lately. such a fun boar. I need to ride mine again soon. It’s been months also
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Would have been more than an hour except it took forever to struggle into my cold, wet wetsuit, booties and gloves and then hike the half mile down a sharp shale path and paddle around the rocky outcroppings to the spot.
Need to ride the TMST more if my body will let me. I was starting to click with it this spring and then I jacked up my knee and it's been a battle trying to get back on smaller boards since.
Finally a little offshore, absolutely perfect weather, bright blue sky, birds chirping in the pines ... and flat af.
4 out of 5 isn't bad I guess.
4 out of 5 isn't bad I guess.
Photogenic conditions, solid 14 second swell, but the fat tide was holding it back from being a full on barrel fest. Didn't stop me from forcing the issue! Got lipped over and over pulling into closeouts and hobbit-sized barrels (I'm a large elf or slight Ork). In retrospect, shoulda been hunting turns, but #goals.
Beautiful conditions midday with a rare offshore window. Drove around but swell wasn’t really hitting my usuals. Ended up at SBD reef with low expectations but was stocked to find no one out. Ended up being a shockingly fun solo sesh. WH+ wedges breaking on the inside reef. Punchy drop, FS slash, pump, wraparound, weave around barely-submerged rocks, kick out.
Scrunched down and tried for a few shampoo rinses off the drop or the final section. Last one got a hoot from a guy on the rocks. At least managed some sweet pocket rides which still feel pretty damn good. Also bailed on a couple air drops that sucked out on me and had to starfish over 4-6” of water over a rock shelf.
ESE wind didn’t last long and it swung around to NW which was still kinda sideshore so not bad. As tide filled in, it started breaking further outside and made for longer CH rides.
5’11 x 20.2 x 2.56 Punksanity twin (with Machado upright fins) was a blast.
Today just seemed like everything was in sync: boar, waves, conditions. Really fun. Ended up staying out for an hour (which is practically a marathon for me). Gotta be one of my favorite sessions of 2022. Stocked.
Scrunched down and tried for a few shampoo rinses off the drop or the final section. Last one got a hoot from a guy on the rocks. At least managed some sweet pocket rides which still feel pretty damn good. Also bailed on a couple air drops that sucked out on me and had to starfish over 4-6” of water over a rock shelf.
ESE wind didn’t last long and it swung around to NW which was still kinda sideshore so not bad. As tide filled in, it started breaking further outside and made for longer CH rides.
5’11 x 20.2 x 2.56 Punksanity twin (with Machado upright fins) was a blast.
Today just seemed like everything was in sync: boar, waves, conditions. Really fun. Ended up staying out for an hour (which is practically a marathon for me). Gotta be one of my favorite sessions of 2022. Stocked.
Heard of pizza box stains but never surfer ears wax stainsBeautiful conditions midday with a rare offshore window. Drove around but swell wasn’t really hitting my usuals. Ended up at SBD reef with low expectations but was stocked to find no one out. Ended up being a shockingly fun solo sesh. WH+ wedges breaking on the inside reef. Punchy drop, FS slash, pump, wraparound, weave around barely-submerged rocks, kick out.
Scrunched down and tried for a few shampoo rinses off the drop or the final section. Last one got a hoot from a guy on the rocks. At least managed some sweet pocket rides which still feel pretty damn good. Also bailed on a couple air drops that sucked out on me and had to starfish over 4-6” of water over a rock shelf.
ESE wind didn’t last long and it swung around to NW which was still kinda sideshore so not bad. As tide filled in, it started breaking further outside and made for longer CH rides.
5’11 x 20.2 x 2.56 Punksanity twin (with Machado upright fins) was a blast.
Today just seemed like everything was in sync: boar, waves, conditions. Really fun. Ended up staying out for an hour (which is practically a marathon for me). Gotta be one of my favorite sessions of 2022. Stocked.
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HH- solid OH drainers w just a couple bros out trading n hooting each other into waves this morning.