Had to take the day off to deal with some stuff and was watching the cams hoping for the tide to drop and the wind to hold off. Paddling out the wind was coming onshore and you could see the fog bank rolling into oside fast. Caught 5 waves and then the the fog rolled in thick with lots of bump, I was riding a high volume board and I have a theory that when you get old and or have a bad back the choppy bounce will f you up when you are sitting above the water whereas if you are sitting low you are cradled by mother ocean sitting low with no constant balancing rechecks tweaking your back. But I’m stubborn so I stayed out too long and it smoothed out some. I also have a crazy theory that the earth isn’t flat.