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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Mr Doof

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,941
7,860
113
San Francisco, CA
When I got out the water yesterday, felt like a looser. Not a good time. Long paddle out and got cleaned up a number of time. Felt undergunned on 7'1". Launch from the lip into spin cycle brought near panic swim to the surface...surprised leach didn't break. The two rides I got were lame non-set waves that I took to "break the ice"...all they did was get me stuck inside for a while.

Today, different story. Got out much easier on the 8'6". Felt overgunned for first wave since I got into it so early, but the 2nd wave was better and then the 3rd (and last) was best. On 2nd and 3rd wave, let a bunch pass before I went for then.....who knew wave selection really made a difference. On 3rd wave, the guy on the shoulder looking down as I was coming off the bottom had a huge smile on his face as he was backing out. Didn't really hit the lip with that much board, but did get a reasonably sharp banking turn and near tube.

Back at the car, looked for the dark cloud of self-doubt and it was way, way far away. Redemption!
 
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bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,770
4,655
113
SF x Encinitas
Got lit up during the low-tide, building swell, sideshore wind session. Probably the most rattled I've out there. First ride was a good one. Fast takeoff, deep bottom turn into the hook, going mach ten into one of the psycho rips that were spread out every couple hundred yards. Aired out the back just as it dumped on a shallow sandbar.

Got much worse from there. Kept paddling into the Noriega zone because the bars to the north were full of crazy ripbowls and it looked like there were some bigger, cleaner faces to the south. Ended up making a bad error. Tried to take off too late, pulled back and got sucked over the falls, straight down to the bottom. I relaxed and waited to be released. Swam to the surface. Another one right behind it. Then one more. Felt a little drained but ok, I paddled back out. Soon after a cleanup set rolled through. I ditched and tried to dive under the lip, but that 18 second energy dragged me back down. Surfaced and my 8'3 was still underwater! One more after that, and I was starting to panic a bit, totally drained, sitting in the impact zone, and I had a feeling more was on the way. I scrambled for an insider, and finally shoulder hopped a wave that rolled in from the north, bellied into the beach. Back up on the dune, I watched the ocean pulse for 10 more minutes. Nice lesson in patience and wave selection. Make enough errors and you will eventually find yourself in the worst case scenario.

Takeaways: Be patient and stick to your plan. Don't let hold-downs lead to panic. :drowning::toilet: Panic bad. You have strength of body and mind to overcome. 8'3 Blackbird is glassed to last. Stay Covered XXL 9 footer would buy again.
 
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Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,707
2,345
113
Oceanside, CA
Bought one of those CatchSurf Lost RNF last
summer with hopes my kids could mess around on it during beach days and I could take it out during decent windows. Finally surfed it this am and got a few fun and racey lefts. Paddles and catches waves well and doesn’t feel weird pumping high in the pocket .
Did feel like the rail wouldnt engage as well on a steeper backside takeoff. Stoked to throw it in the bag this summer for both the kids and myself.
 
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tedshred5

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,788
6,559
113
silentbutdeadly said:
You liking that mini ghost? felt one up at el factorio de dank farts and it looked pretty fun
Click to expand...
yea I still need more sessions on it but I'm diggin it so far. still wanna get it in more decent surf. it's foiled thick (like me haha) but the nose is pulled in enough where it doesn't feel like it's gonna get in the way if that makes sense. i bet a dank farts one would be fun
 
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S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,377
2,184
113
Ponto
Surf meetup at PPP with Subway and PRCD this morning. Subway is on an surf mission! I guess one can take a vaction in California for surfing. I relearned why I don't surf there with receding tide. The call of the erBB meetup was too strong and overcame my wanting to wait for slack tide. We paddled out, saw some good lefts, and then found ourselves 100 yards outside the peak due to strong tide flow. Good workout, I feel that somehow Subway Subwayed me, lol.

PRCD caught the biggest one, we all struggled with getting in turns, too much water mashing around. I caught two "memorable" ones. Takeoff to slogging bottom turn, to complete stop, grab rail and slide back down the face tailfirst somehow still on my feet. Not pretty, and not intentional.

The Santa Barbara team appears to be up next as ambassader hosts for the Subway strike mission.
 
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I

i_ride_spinnaz

OTF status
Aug 19, 2020
348
720
93
Senor Sopa said:
Surf meetup at PPP with Subway and PRCD this morning. Subway is on an surf mission! I guess one can take a vaction in California for surfing. I relearned why I don't surf there with receding tide. The call of the erBB meetup was too strong and overcame my wanting to wait for slack tide. We paddled out, saw some good lefts, and then found ourselves 100 yards outside the peak due to strong tide flow. Good workout, I feel that somehow Subway Subwayed me, lol.

PRCD caught the biggest one, we all struggled with getting in turns, too much water mashing around. I caught two "memorable" ones. Takeoff to slogging bottom turn, to complete stop, grab rail and slide back down the face tailfirst somehow still on my feet. Not pretty, and not intentional.

The Santa Barbara team appears to be up next as ambassader hosts for the Subway strike mission.
Click to expand...
PRCD is a real person? Not just an internet construct?

On a big outgoing tide sometimes it will be mini-slabbing at PPP, and I'll get fooled into thinking that I'll actually be able to stay in position. Instead, I get sucked a quarter mile out to sea and fight the current back in for 20-30 minutes. I will then get fooled into trying to get back into position, only to be a quarter mile out to sea again in 10 minutes. This cycle will happen about 4 or 5 times, maybe I'll get a wave or two, sometimes memorable, sometimes not, but by the last time I'm paddling back in from a quarter mile out I am ready to punch the nose off my fuckin board.
 
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000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,192
7,514
113
tide was too high for it, wrong swell direction, bad sand
but i decided to go to my out of the way crap peak to surf alone
its a weekday after all
there i was, all alone, waves barely breaking, long wait, mostly closeouts


and some bald barney walked all the way down the beach to surf exactly where i was
he wouldnt even know where to sit without me to follow

 
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S

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,377
2,184
113
Ponto
i_ride_spinnaz said:
PRCD is a real person? Not just an internet construct?

On a big outgoing tide sometimes it will be mini-slabbing at PPP, and I'll get fooled into thinking that I'll actually be able to stay in position. Instead, I get sucked a quarter mile out to sea and fight the current back in for 20-30 minutes. I will then get fooled into trying to get back into position, only to be a quarter mile out to sea again in 10 minutes. This cycle will happen about 4 or 5 times, maybe I'll get a wave or two, sometimes memorable, sometimes not, but by the last time I'm paddling back in from a quarter mile out I am ready to punch the nose off my fuckin board.
Click to expand...
Guess I created an internet consternation. Yep PRCD is real, smart dude too.

spinnaz description is spot on.
However, I went back at 2:30, after all the tide was done. It was really good, no current. Doing a decent impression of GeoPacs shots from yesterday. High talent level from all the guys out. Handful of twinfins. I struggled. to connect turns. Can't win everytime.
 
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