Pretty mediocre surf at the beach this morning. I think I should’ve gone to a reef, it wasn’t big but I’m out of shape after shingles.
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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
3-5' relatively long period South. Pretty easy paddle with the inconsistency. Manage to snag a couple runners and a nice close out barrel with a good view( got a shout out from a bodysurfing witness) Overall just a test session on the new 6-4 twinzer RP
So glassey midmorning. Caught one chest high wave on my longboard and rode about 50 yards. Paddling back out I noticed that I paddled over my wake from about a quarter of the way through the ride, before the wave had actually broken
I definitely heard two guys talking about the erBB while in the water in Cardiff area this evening. Which one of you weirdos was it?
surfed every day this week, yesterday early afternoon was the best session, buttery conditions and just super rippable head high sets every once in a while, stayed out for 2 and 1/2 hours and did some of my best turns of the year on the 5 8 kenson pleasure pig. could not believe how fun it was, grinning ear to ear. Saw an old friend on the beach and we were just laughing about how many waves we had caught. looks smaller today but will probably go down and look during the first half of the superbowl.
How did you end up liking the birthday model SK you got? Was that more for better waves?
I really like it in good surf but it works in anything. Had one day at a local reef when it was overhead and glassy and it was so easy to glide into the waves, but if you stand on the back you can still whip it around. It’s a lot of volume and I call it my Mid Life. Great for second session of the day or 7th day in a row. Very happy with this board. I probably ride it once a week or so.
That thing looks sweet @b.r.
Been exploring a lot and finding some surf but not as consistently as just posting up at a point. I did find a zone that was very consistent and fun and not just uncrowded but empty for the four days I was there. Not a perfect point but kind of a reefy/sandy zone with shifty peaks and plenty of corners to be had. The camping was amazing other than the fine dust which coated everything that seemed to be a feature related to the draught stricken desert and the consistently offshore winds. I surfed my butt off the last two days we were there, mostly riding the i72 and then, feeling emboldened by our success we headed for even more remote zones that were very hard to get to and which definitely tested the limits of my offroad skills and confidence but which were ultimately quite rewarding if not in a strictly surfy way. Perhaps I will post more about it when I am not limited to a phone touchscreen for typing.
Yesterday I surfed a sand bottom peak with a couple mexican bodyboarders. The waves were fun and the locals were very welcoming once. We chatted a bunch during and after the session. They taught me some spanish surf terms which I promptly forgot. This morning I surfed the same spot but the two guys never showed back up. The wind was slightly funky but I still got a few fun lefts on the Plasmic.
Been exploring a lot and finding some surf but not as consistently as just posting up at a point. I did find a zone that was very consistent and fun and not just uncrowded but empty for the four days I was there. Not a perfect point but kind of a reefy/sandy zone with shifty peaks and plenty of corners to be had. The camping was amazing other than the fine dust which coated everything that seemed to be a feature related to the draught stricken desert and the consistently offshore winds. I surfed my butt off the last two days we were there, mostly riding the i72 and then, feeling emboldened by our success we headed for even more remote zones that were very hard to get to and which definitely tested the limits of my offroad skills and confidence but which were ultimately quite rewarding if not in a strictly surfy way. Perhaps I will post more about it when I am not limited to a phone touchscreen for typing.
Yesterday I surfed a sand bottom peak with a couple mexican bodyboarders. The waves were fun and the locals were very welcoming once. We chatted a bunch during and after the session. They taught me some spanish surf terms which I promptly forgot. This morning I surfed the same spot but the two guys never showed back up. The wind was slightly funky but I still got a few fun lefts on the Plasmic.
Got 3 pretty fun lefts on a new-to-me Panda Shiitake twinzer. Good first impression, but conditions
were kinda hard to line up good ones that would both stand up enough to get into without a log and then
not close out quickly. Couple fun high-lines and wiggles.
were kinda hard to line up good ones that would both stand up enough to get into without a log and then
not close out quickly. Couple fun high-lines and wiggles.
Waist to chest uber clean, a bit crowded, managed to stand up a couple times 6-2 twinzer . 20w paddling by like he had a motor, in trunks and a vest , got a few too 
Wednesday - crowded reef break, 5' 6" Twinsman worked well.
Thursday morning - same reef break, bigger waves, 5' 6" Twinsman - one other guy out there. Twinsman was too short for the conditions, the 5' 9" Insanity or longer would have been better.
Friday morning - same reef break, same size waves - lessons learned - grabbed 6' 9" Album Bpunt - hell yeah - so much easier, especially getting into some of the bigger set waves, scored lots of good ones. I have to grab this board more for this break in these conditions.
Saturday morning - miserable session, I lost the battle to every rip current, which nearly impossible to stay in position. Cursing the waves and currents out loud, worse session I have had in months. Deflating -haha!
Sunday morning - weaker waves, 8' 0" Twinsman Twinzer was money, forgot how much fun this board can be, it has been collecting dust. The 5' 8" Asher Pacey's fin performed well, more hold than the NVS uprights. These are a keeper in this board.
Thursday morning - same reef break, bigger waves, 5' 6" Twinsman - one other guy out there. Twinsman was too short for the conditions, the 5' 9" Insanity or longer would have been better.
Friday morning - same reef break, same size waves - lessons learned - grabbed 6' 9" Album Bpunt - hell yeah - so much easier, especially getting into some of the bigger set waves, scored lots of good ones. I have to grab this board more for this break in these conditions.
Saturday morning - miserable session, I lost the battle to every rip current, which nearly impossible to stay in position. Cursing the waves and currents out loud, worse session I have had in months. Deflating -haha!
Sunday morning - weaker waves, 8' 0" Twinsman Twinzer was money, forgot how much fun this board can be, it has been collecting dust. The 5' 8" Asher Pacey's fin performed well, more hold than the NVS uprights. These are a keeper in this board.
Lackluster day with more current than waves. Waist to chest high and I most definitely chose the wrong sandbar but I still got a few waves that were pretty fun. Got a few pretty decent turns in, which was good enough for the morning. Dolphins put on a cool little show.
lots of current once the tide switched yesterday on the sheeple bar
got a bunch despite both, but not really my jam. several sf guys in the lot with their model 3's connecting over what intersections theyve lived at in the city.
today was more like it. small local crew on a setup off the weekender radar. happy to share em with friends rather than take em from blowins
got a bunch despite both, but not really my jam. several sf guys in the lot with their model 3's connecting over what intersections theyve lived at in the city.
today was more like it. small local crew on a setup off the weekender radar. happy to share em with friends rather than take em from blowins
After two pretty disappointing surfs, I decided to go get some small low tide reef waves on my manta to get my groove back. It was a beautiful day and the crowd was light for a Sunday thanks to the Super Bowl. I struggled at the start, missing a few good peaks that rolled right under me. I decided to change things up, sit inside and catch a ton of waves. It was pretty but it worked. After a few insiders I got out of my funk and started picking off some fun waves. I got a couple fun turns in, it’s amazing how small a wave the manta can go on. There was a younger guy out on a hp looking rtt with channels he said was a backyard shape. He was ripping especially considering the wave size.
Out on the Plasmic in clean shoulder-high conditions. Handled the transition from 8'3 to 5'7 more gracefully than I expected although felt like I was dragging an anchor while paddling, especially when competing with all the midlengthers and longboarders. Got my share of waves anyway. Board is so fast and snappy. Why would I ride a "shortboard" again?
Ended up in front of the cam, so I have videographic evidence.
Ended up in front of the cam, so I have videographic evidence.
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wasn't expecting much but managed some softies on the dank farts album. couple of them were actually pretty fun.
water is frigid
water is frigid
I had 2 quick surfs on the Rehab Mini Glider, both under an hour.
Got a fun one at the end of the street on Saturday.
Sunday I hustled to the main bar up the way. It was crowded with other mid lengths, longboards, and everything else. I got a wobbly one, then kept finding peaky ones with no wall and putting myself on the wrong side of the rip. I saw a lot of fun little waves, but didn't get on many of them.
Pretty incredible weather. Looks like it's broken down for the remainder of the month.
Got a fun one at the end of the street on Saturday.
Sunday I hustled to the main bar up the way. It was crowded with other mid lengths, longboards, and everything else. I got a wobbly one, then kept finding peaky ones with no wall and putting myself on the wrong side of the rip. I saw a lot of fun little waves, but didn't get on many of them.
Pretty incredible weather. Looks like it's broken down for the remainder of the month.
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Saturday my daughter informed me that I was taking her and her friend to the beach to surf Sunday morning. So, we headed to the weak, dirty waves of Bo with plenty of groveler boards. We get there and it's totally flat. Shoot now what, I want to a least get wet. I decide, since we are out this way, to give some of the lonely beach breaks north of here a check (personal recon of the sand bars). We roll up at the South end of the beach's parking lot and I just about sh!t myself. Perfect 4-6+ defined peaks, paddling channels for days, not a close out in site, glassy clear blue skys. My daughter and her friend don't even know what they are witnessing. They probably didn't realize someone could put a wetsuit on that fast.
I told them I would be three hours. I proceded to surf machine like head high plus, long lefts. It wasn't all time, but it was all mine. The overhead sets were tricky on my 5'4" groveler, but what are you gonna do. They waved me out of the water after two hours and countless waves.
Planned on hitting it again this morning with a propper hpsb, but you know how these things go, wind turned onshore and I didn't even bother, wanted to savor the memory.
At one point I was even joined by a pod of dolphins.
I told them I would be three hours. I proceded to surf machine like head high plus, long lefts. It wasn't all time, but it was all mine. The overhead sets were tricky on my 5'4" groveler, but what are you gonna do. They waved me out of the water after two hours and countless waves.
Planned on hitting it again this morning with a propper hpsb, but you know how these things go, wind turned onshore and I didn't even bother, wanted to savor the memory.
At one point I was even joined by a pod of dolphins.