***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Had to take the day off to deal with some stuff and was watching the cams hoping for the tide to drop and the wind to hold off. Paddling out the wind was coming onshore and you could see the fog bank rolling into oside fast. Caught 5 waves and then the the fog rolled in thick with lots of bump, I was riding a high volume board and I have a theory that when you get old and or have a bad back the choppy bounce will f you up when you are sitting above the water whereas if you are sitting low you are cradled by mother ocean sitting low with no constant balancing rechecks tweaking your back. But I’m stubborn so I stayed out too long and it smoothed out some. I also have a crazy theory that the earth isn’t flat.
 

Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
412
954
93
Took the Twinsman out to the proving grounds of Ulu today. Great fun was had by all. I only learned to surf about three n a half years ago so I'm still figuring a lot of things out. Recently I've been doing more aggressive cutbacks. Sharper turns, harder lean angles, using my arm to project where I want to go, all that fun stuff. So I did a big cutback on an oh+ wave at secrets and really nailed it on the Twinsman. Felt good.

I've also never been barreled in my life. I'm about 80% sure I could have lost my barrel virginity today. I've seen this very particular section of Ulu barrel before, I saw it lining up for a barrel but he problem is, in the moment when everything is happening very fast my lizard brain takes over. And my lizard brain says, wave is starting to look like it could close out, get off! And I do. And then exactly 1.3 seconds later I realize, facqueee me that section was about to barrel, not close out you dumb shiht. So I have to find a way to overrule the lizard brain.

Other than that, Ulu was great today. One of the best sessions of the month so far.
 

Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
355
848
93
Couple surfs last week at the same beach as usual:
Thurs:
wavered on whether to take out the stepup or gun; paddled out on the gun and as soon as I get out there sets are catching everyone inside, I head to a further-out bar by my lonesome and manage to pick off a really good set wave. Eventually paddle a long way up current (to about rivera) where there are peaks but lots of them run inside over the sandbar. Really satisfying cat and mouse game. Catch a few, then straighten out one one that I should have pulled into and get blown in over the sandbar. Difficult and weird out there but but the ocean was friendly to me that day.
Fri:
Paddle out on the gun again without really checking it and immediately realize I'm on too much board. Still had a decent surf, did some longboard-style fades.
Sat:
Clean but smaller. Crowded because it's the weekend and also because everyone can make the paddle now. Find some fun ones but my vibes and mojo were off from the start, didn't surf very well.
Sun:
Paddle out right before the superbowl on the trippiest-feeling board I got off craigslist: a channel islands "skinny fish" that someone ordered as a 6'10. It's not a "long fish" it's a normal fish blown up to comical proportions. It's one of the fastest but most unwieldy feeling boards I've ever ridden. Rolling it onto rail feels like a whole event, but then when you point it down the line on a fat shoulder it just takes off under you. But it's packed and really inconsistent. I felt silly paddle battling beginners after having surfed a lot recently. It felt unnecessary so I cut it short.

Few days off now with bad wind but I'm ready for more already!
 

Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
412
954
93
Just southeast of Ulu there's a break called Nyang Nyang. She's a fickle fucqer. Last four times I've gone there I've turned around and left, been unsurfable. Today though it was good, really fucking good. Usually Nyang can't handle too much size, and once it starts getting towards 1.5 oh it closes out. Not today though. On this lovely day it was big and open and I caught the best waves I've ever had there.

Near vertical drop, sharp bottom turn up to smack the lip, then right back down the still steep face into a racing section that was going a 100 feet. Probably the best waves I've had in 2022 so far and it was three guys out and glassy. What a joy.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,498
23,093
113
Tower 13
windswell at the upper limits of my GX.

most were manageable semi fat walls but the big ones would stand up. Got a few nice turns and one really nice crack that felt good. Bummer was one of the bombs I got, I airdopped and the board accelerated away from me so I couldn't square up and go around the corner to get covered so I just sat bhind on the closeout watching it barrel in front of me. Oh well.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,321
113
Oceanside, CA
Pretty crappy at dawn. Paddled out and surfed alone for a while on the Shiitake. Waves would look
like they were going to jack a bit and line up, but would immediately get uber fat and often times not
even break. Managed a couple mediocre lefts and one right that got a little steeper for a decent feeling
backside slice, but wasn't really worth the cold.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,275
113
San Diego, CA
Just southeast of Ulu there's a break called Nyang Nyang. She's a fickle fucqer. Last four times I've gone there I've turned around and left, been unsurfable. Today though it was good, really fucking good. Usually Nyang can't handle too much size, and once it starts getting towards 1.5 oh it closes out. Not today though. On this lovely day it was big and open and I caught the best waves I've ever had there.

Near vertical drop, sharp bottom turn up to smack the lip, then right back down the still steep face into a racing section that was going a 100 feet. Probably the best waves I've had in 2022 so far and it was three guys out and glassy. What a joy.
Sounds nice. I’m jelly. What boar did you shred in this utopian sesh?
 
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donger

Billy Hamilton status
Nov 17, 2012
1,385
371
83
OC
Out on the Plasmic in clean shoulder-high conditions. Handled the transition from 8'3 to 5'7 more gracefully than I expected although felt like I was dragging an anchor while paddling, especially when competing with all the midlengthers and longboarders. Got my share of waves anyway. Board is so fast and snappy. Why would I ride a "shortboard" again?

Ended up in front of the cam, so I have videographic evidence.

http://instagr.am/p/CZ8P_MQr1WB/
its pleasantly surprising how well the plasmic surfs backside
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Been staying off this thread. I’ve been surfing but my sore shoulder was throwing off my pop up and it got in my head. I guess golfers call it the yipes. There’s been a couple of runs of fun south shore waves and been surfing the summer regular. That has helped. Softer easier take offs and easier to surf waves plus the dread of falling in front of all my friends is stronger than the yipes. Haha.

Surfed yesterday on the dying south and the pop up drama returned. Easy to blame it on the soft waves. I did get a long shot nugget and sprayed a Nihonjin longboarder chick that always gets in the way. I asked Gregg if he saw my last wave. He said yeah nugget. Asked if I sprayed Junko. He said he didn’t see that part. Alan chimes in yeah you sprayed the crap outta of her. I laughed and told them I thought so she gave me stink eye when I paddled back out past her. Made it worth paddling out. Cheee
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,689
20,895
113
The Bar
Why is it that after getting two good waves, the ocean decides to fuck with me? :roflmao: Nah, seriously, super fun out there. Head high to a few feet OH peaks but really about long lined up lefts that were hollow on outside and then kinda burgered their way in. But that damn current! Just ripping off the good peaks, which made it difficult with relatively long lulls between sets. Solo sesh for a while and then a few more people filtered in. Even then, you would think a group could maintain the lineup - no, the current/erratic sets screwed us all. But seriously, though, once I got over that funk (including way too late dropping a pair of really good lefts, eating sh!t stupidly; misread the jack completely), got a flurry of really fun lined up lefts, late steep drops, couple of carves, milking it to inside, getting a couple more turns and then eventually kicking out the side. Easily 100 yard lefts and my arms are tired.

Fog and wind came in, sorta got junked at that was a good time to call it. Actually kind of was out a lot longer than I meant to be (last wave curse) but very satisfied coming in. Nice way to start a 4-day weekend. :beer: