When I got out the water yesterday, felt like a looser. Not a good time. Long paddle out and got cleaned up a number of time. Felt undergunned on 7'1". Launch from the lip into spin cycle brought near panic swim to the surface...surprised leach didn't break. The two rides I got were lame non-set waves that I took to "break the ice"...all they did was get me stuck inside for a while.
Today, different story. Got out much easier on the 8'6". Felt overgunned for first wave since I got into it so early, but the 2nd wave was better and then the 3rd (and last) was best. On 2nd and 3rd wave, let a bunch pass before I went for then.....who knew wave selection really made a difference. On 3rd wave, the guy on the shoulder looking down as I was coming off the bottom had a huge smile on his face as he was backing out. Didn't really hit the lip with that much board, but did get a reasonably sharp banking turn and near tube.
Back at the car, looked for the dark cloud of self-doubt and it was way, way far away. Redemption!
Today, different story. Got out much easier on the 8'6". Felt overgunned for first wave since I got into it so early, but the 2nd wave was better and then the 3rd (and last) was best. On 2nd and 3rd wave, let a bunch pass before I went for then.....who knew wave selection really made a difference. On 3rd wave, the guy on the shoulder looking down as I was coming off the bottom had a huge smile on his face as he was backing out. Didn't really hit the lip with that much board, but did get a reasonably sharp banking turn and near tube.
Back at the car, looked for the dark cloud of self-doubt and it was way, way far away. Redemption!