almost worth surfing today, after 4 days of not
wore fullsuit, knew it got colder
hands and feet cracked off like icicles
I have high standards too, I went out. Wore my regular 3/2, water was cold. Ever had an ice cream headache? LOL, not today, but I was getting handaches from the cold. It's not that it's freezing, but compared to the air...
Lifeguard girl said low 60's, with some hot pockets. One of the guys that was at Cracks said it was way warmer than where I was sitting. I asked the lifeguard if she would give someone a extra time to become safe before making a save, she laughed.
Paddled out to Boulders tonight, for the incoming tide. I wanted to go to Cracks, but there were two duu's out, too crowded. Waves were, maybe, waist high, maybe. The big move today was the "redirect". Still, had it to myself, until a man and 12 year old son paddled out on the hotel rental boards. I was eyeballing em the whole time, but once I saw the paddling ability, not a factor. But then they tried to 000 me, sitting 10 yards inside of me. I turned around, and made a parting motion like Moses and told em it's a big beach. There's literally nobody else for over 50 yards in both directions. I can't hear chit, so then turned back around and said I didn't want to run into them, they moved over, cool. Kinda dick move, but my intuition was telling me the kid was going to get in the way on my next wave. When the waves suck, there's not much margin between a ride and sinking.
Last wave was the best, actually generated speed and did nice rebound off the closeout. Stock! I got one solid turn in!
On the beach, dad says, "that was really good!" or something. We started chatting, yep, staying at the new hotel. He admitted to the rentals, I told him I'd seen others, so I knew. They're from Santa Barbara, says the hotel is nice, and the restaurant is good. Have to get wifey down there soon.
for BR - I told em, to go South two staircases, much easier, more rideable waves at GrandView. I also told em about Cancun for tacos, and to take his wife to Le Papagayo, where all the hot ladies go.
for Teeroi - no jellyfish, none
for lilibel - Better than Rat, barely
for Kento - you would have only been impressed if you trunked it, make it macho style.
for Doc Flav - talent on the beach was good
for most of the rest of you - Happy hour would've been a better call
Funny chit - It's been really hot, with
heavy fog right up to the shoreline. From being in the car, my wax is toast. Paddling out today, my deck felt like frozen grease. Decent fingernails for the save.