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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,945
11,420
113
San Diego
Yesterday before dark, some clean peelers coming through.

Nothing too fancy but jsut me and another guy taking turns.

funny how folks will often test you with a drop in and follow with “sorry, thot you were going left” on the way back out and then magically know how to check if you’re sitting deeper thereafter.
 
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MathDebater

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,594
6,146
113
SD
Same spot and tide window as yesterday. The swell looked essentially the same but jeeze today was a struggle. The waves were much softer and they were all breaking in the same place vs inside/outside like yesterday, meaning I was competing with long boards directly rather than taking off on the reform while they are on the shoulder way down the line. I rode a different board besides my Manta or Banjo for the first time in a while and just felt off. Oh well, glad I could get in the water.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,431
113
San Diego, CA
MathDebater said:
Same spot and tide window as yesterday. The swell looked essentially the same but jeeze today was a struggle. The waves were much softer and they were all breaking in the same place vs inside/outside like yesterday, meaning I was competing with long boards directly rather than taking off on the reform while they are on the shoulder way down the line. I rode a different board besides my Manta or Banjo for the first time in a while and just felt off. Oh well, glad I could get in the water.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it's time to unleash da GMM2 duu!
 
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bluengreen

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,769
4,651
113
SF x Encinitas
Finally found a good C-List deal on a log. 9'6, 23.5, 3 handshape by a small-time Encinitas surfer/shaper. Avocados for Lunch. Stupid name, but the board looks nice, not that I know sh!t about logs! Maybe a slight pig shape, square tail with a flip, slightly pulled in nose, bit of concave under the nose and 50/50 rails. Drab green tint. Looks pretty classic. Somehow it made it's way up to the Bay Area and ended up on C-List after a few surfs.

Quickly realizing this is an essential summer board. Trying to surf it the proper way. Inspo from Devon Howard, Joel, Burch videos. Faded takeoffs, cross-stepping, surfing the front half of the board, staying high and tight in the pocket, all that. sh!t is hard to do right. Definitely not beginner boarding.

Anyway, I'm catching way to many waves and having too much fun trying to learn how to longboard. Finding clean, lined up waves has been a challenge up here, but I finally got some yesterday morning.

Dawn patrol at a protected SW-facing cove. Touch of south swell swinging into the north end at low tide. Sun coming up over the hills through the fog. Some long, clean waist-high rights. Finally figured out how to get that locked-in feeling tight in the pocket. Faded the takeoff, styled up into the pocket. Set the line. Walked up far enough to crouch into a cheater 5 for several sublime seconds of trim. Shuffled back awkwardly before the wave closed out. Caught about 12 waves in an hour. Last one I was actually able to cross step backwards into a lame half-drop knee cutback. Conversion from mediocre HPSB shredder to retro-future kook almost complete. Follow your heart, people. Super stocked!
 
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ReForest

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
3,208
4,732
113
Pulled up to da beach at dawn. Oside was completely walled. Not a shoulder in sight. Straight south swell. Decided I had enough of shitty waves and I was going to surf the most crowded, ruthless, harshest, south swell magnet in Southern California - LOWERS. Pulled up and the lot was near empty. It was foggy and overcast with a slight drizzle. There was a NW wind about 8-10mph. Crumbly shoulder high waves on offer. The bros must have had there fill from yesterdays perfect conditions with overhead sets.

I suited up and headed down to catch a few insiders and call it a day. Once I reached the sand it was like a miracle had just happened.... the wind died down to a slight breeze, the upcoming tide pushed from shoulder high sets to head high sets or bigger. The crowd was super light with more and more leaving as I was waxing the magic stick. Paddled out and completely scored!!!

Got about 30 waves total - 6 or 7 good head high runners (minimum 3 turns each). Magic day!
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,112
22,956
113
PNW
Winds finally died enough for an evening grovel. 2@8 second garbage. Rode the old 5-5 WTF and actually got a couple little runners. Couple weak cutties. Went in and grabbed the new boogie and fins and floundered around on that for a while. Forgot to wax up the boog so i was slipping all over. Managed to get one sicky little left finally and called it. My legs were torched from all the flippering. Shits hard work yo! Also i feel pretty out of shape overall. Still good to get wet though. Cant wait for this summer to be over.
 
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sdsurfrat

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,585
765
113
bluengreen said:
Finally found a good C-List deal on a log. 9'6, 23.5, 3 handshape by a small-time Encinitas surfer/shaper. Avocados for Lunch. Stupid name, but the board looks nice, not that I know sh!t about logs! Maybe a slight pig shape, square tail with a flip, slightly pulled in nose, bit of concave under the nose and 50/50 rails. Drab green tint. Looks pretty classic. Somehow it made it's way up to the Bay Area and ended up on C-List after a few surfs.

Quickly realizing this is an essential summer board. Trying to surf it the proper way. Inspo from Devon Howard, Joel, Burch videos. Faded takeoffs, cross-stepping, surfing the front half of the board, staying high and tight in the pocket, all that. sh!t is hard to do right. Definitely not beginner boarding.

Anyway, I'm catching way to many waves and having too much fun trying to learn how to longboard. Finding clean, lined up waves has been a challenge up here, but I finally got some yesterday morning.

Dawn patrol at a protected SW-facing cove. Touch of south swell swinging into the north end at low tide. Sun coming up over the hills through the fog. Some long, clean waist-high rights. Finally figured out how to get that locked-in feeling tight in the pocket. Faded the takeoff, styled up into the pocket. Set the line. Walked up far enough to crouch into a cheater 5 for several sublime seconds of trim. Shuffled back awkwardly before the wave closed out. Caught about 12 waves in an hour. Last one I was actually able to cross step backwards into a lame half-drop knee cutback. Conversion from mediocre HPSB shredder to retro-future kook almost complete. Follow your heart, people. Super stocked!
Click to expand...
Bolinas
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,431
113
San Diego, CA
ReForest said:
Paddled out and completely scored!!!
Got about 30 waves total - 6 or 7 good head high runners (minimum 3 turns each). Magic day!
Click to expand...
I'm jealous. Yesterday, I paddled out at reefs 5 & 6 to waist-high windy onshore slop, to mess around and get a feel for the new 7' Dankness (Tyler Warren quads). Unfortunately, even on a bigger boar, you can't really get in early at these spots before it jacks up on the reef. Ended up with a few little airdrops and the boar actually handled pretty well despite having such a flat rocker. Some chest high closeout sets, so the smaller ones were a bit more lined up with connectable sections. The steeper takeoffs made it more exciting and the boar was able to make the most of the otherwise meager conditions. Had some bs downcarves and wraps that felt pretty good, given the boar length that I'm not used to. #Yuriwouldgo
 
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ReForest

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
3,208
4,732
113
oeste858 said:
I'm jealous. Yesterday, I paddled out at reefs 5 & 6 to waist-high windy onshore slop, to mess around and get a feel for the new 7' Dankness (Tyler Warren quads). Unfortunately, even on a bigger boar, you can't really get in early at these spots before it jacks up on the reef. Ended up with a few little airdrops and the boar actually handled pretty well despite having such a flat rocker. Some chest high closeout sets, so the smaller ones were a bit more lined up with connectable sections. The steeper takeoffs made it more fun and the boar was able to make the most of the otherwise meager conditions. Had some bs slashes and wraps that felt pretty good, given the boar length that I'm not used to. #Yuriwouldgo
Click to expand...
I was a lot of fun. Very out of the ordinary to get it with swell and such a light and "friendly" crowd. It was a cool vibe.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,431
113
San Diego, CA
Crowd of 30 this morning at the main reef as nothing else around was really breaking. Stuck to the inside on The Dankness (with Rasta quads) and connected a few little runners and rights that swung wide of the pack. Fun getting to know this boar. Still surfing it a bit forward over the wide point, just need to remember to take a step back to crank turns. Water was chilly in trunks- definitely dropped a few degrees.
 
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C

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,428
973
113
Water got cold during the PM session yesterday. At first there was a slight cold current at the bottom, then there were big pockets of chilly water all over the place. You could feel it changing minute by minute starting at about 5pm.

EDIT: Aruka, you can take your "like" of this post about "cold" SoCal water and stick it right up your post-session rinse thermos.
 
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Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,763
12,349
113
in da hood next to paradise
super fun today and it was glassy and clean, waist to chest, occasional shoulder+. Freezing cold water. I came prepared. Most complained that they couldn't feel their feet bc of the cold lol. Got super super crowded but for some reason I was in the right place at the right time and had a blast. Best 2 waves were a head high left with a bs wrap and a shoulder high reeling right hander that one of the regulars gave me the nod to go on. thing ran for 50+ yards and allowed for a couple check turns and floaters. was a period where i was getting right after right just running down the line, even got a couple reos and cutbacks on the 6'11 wtfo. used the lovelace piggy back twins with an nvs trailer. gave the boar some good pivot. love it! lovelace might be an a-hole but he designs good fins haha. 3 hrs and 40 waves i'm beat. gotta love nw windswell.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,431
113
San Diego, CA
Havoc said:
super fun today and it was glassy and clean, waist to chest, occasional shoulder+. Freezing cold water. I came prepared. Most complained that they couldn't feel their feet bc of the cold lol. Got super super crowded but for some reason I was in the right place at the right time and had a blast. Best 2 waves were a head high left with a bs wrap and a shoulder high reeling right hander that one of the regulars gave me the nod to go on. thing ran for 50+ yards and allowed for a couple check turns and floaters. was a period where i was getting right after right just running down the line, even got a couple reos and cutbacks on the 6'11 wtfo. used the lovelace piggy back twins with an nvs trailer. gave the boar some good pivot. love it! lovelace might be an a-hole but he designs good fins haha. 3 hrs and 40 waves i'm beat. gotta love nw windswell.
Click to expand...
Damn, homie. Down south it’s both flat and yet onshore. I’m gonna need to start looking for projects in San Clemente!
 
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ReForest

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
3,208
4,732
113
Havoc said:
super fun today and it was glassy and clean, waist to chest, occasional shoulder+. Freezing cold water. I came prepared. Most complained that they couldn't feel their feet bc of the cold lol. Got super super crowded but for some reason I was in the right place at the right time and had a blast. Best 2 waves were a head high left with a bs wrap and a shoulder high reeling right hander that one of the regulars gave me the nod to go on. thing ran for 50+ yards and allowed for a couple check turns and floaters. was a period where i was getting right after right just running down the line, even got a couple reos and cutbacks on the 6'11 wtfo. used the lovelace piggy back twins with an nvs trailer. gave the boar some good pivot. love it! lovelace might be an a-hole but he designs good fins haha. 3 hrs and 40 waves i'm beat. gotta love nw windswell.
Click to expand...
Dang! Score duu. Sounds awesome.
I'm heading north tomorrow :ROFLMAO:
 
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